TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

Thought I would start a new thread for Throttle Body removal. Although the seasoned ZR-1 owners know this all too well, this is basically intended for an owner who may be apprehensive doing this for the first time.
With many suggestions, advice, text, and returned PM's in the last 24-48 hours from different members that I contacted, a big thank you to all...
I also searched Cliff's Solutions, and maybe missed the thread for pics or detailed info that I was looking for....you could read his info for hours....

So here we go.....disconnect the battery, just in case....
here are the tools you will need for removal....
I used 3/8" drive....breaker bar, ratchet, extensions and Torx socket set. Also good to have a pencil or long magnet on hand. You will also need a "mallet" hammer just to tap the throttle body loose after the bolts are removed.

1-air cleaner assembly removed
2-air horn removed....there are 4 T-25 screws that hold the air horn on the inside, and 2 T-25 screws that are on the outside on the top at opposite ends. The bolts on the inside are made so they stay attached to the air horn when removed. Only problem with mine, is that one bolt comes completely out. That a good reason for the magnet, just in case.
3-undo the 2 T-15 screws on top of the plenum that hold the throttle cable to the top of the plenum. I used blue painters tape to mark the cable so I would reinstall in the exact position.

[Roadster]

4-now that the cable is undone you can remove the 5 T40 screws with a breaker bar to get them loose and then use your lightweight hammer to tap the TB loose.


5-Pay attention to the size of the bolts that come out of the TB, lay them out in the rotation that they were removed and take note. That way upon installation, they will go back in the same location. 4 are on the paper towel, from R-L and the 5th bolt is to the left of the pic, you can barely see the thread, that is the bottom bolt.

6-My finish on the TB is peeling off, I just may undo the cable now that I can see how it is attached and refinish the TB myself or send it out to Marc for a complete overhaul, don't know yet.

[Roadster]

7-now is a good time for the little things too....such as the clips...already sanded and 0000 steel wool used and ready for paint...




Again, thanking everyone for their quick responses to my inquiries and an especially big thanks to Yun (secondchance) who has always answered my text at any time whenever needed
Appreciating all of the input received......

[GOLDCYLON]

Now that you feel comfortable time for the stainless bolts upgrade

[Roadster]

Oh i always feel comfortable, lol, but with my luck you never know what is going to happen next....the stories i could tell....lol
We did the stainless on the plenum when we did the pull, except one got lost in never never land....but will check into the others.....

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[secondchance]

Tom,

First, your erratic idle rpm may be due to intermittent vacuum leak.
As for the TB corrosion, this is caused by galvanic corrosion - electric current plus steel bolt and aluminum TB, both exposed to water base coolant. Even if refinished will return unless the cause is resolved. In my case, bypassing coolant through TB, was the fix.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Oh i always feel comfortable, lol, but with my luck you never know what is going to happen next....the stories i could tell....lol
We did the stainless on the plenum when we did the pull, except one got lost in never never land....but will check into the others.....

Sent from my SM-G935P using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

I noticed that. Jerry has all those stainless bolts ready to buy

[Roadster]

I imagine that everyone else is having the same problem with the forum. Don't know what I did, but I may be able to post......lol

Originally Posted by secondchance

Tom,

First, your erratic idle rpm may be due to intermittent vacuum leak.
As for the TB corrosion, this is caused by galvanic corrosion - electric current plus steel bolt and aluminum TB, both exposed to water base coolant. Even if refinished will return unless the cause is resolved. In my case, bypassing coolant through TB, was the fix.

Yun,
I found the problem apparently the smoke test was correct. I don't think I have an intermittent vacuum leak, rather it is indeed the primary blade. The TB bypass may be an option for me in the future...I will probably need your expertize for that mod as I know you have something different that you do from reading previous threads.

Did the light test recommended by G8nightman (George) with a flashlight shining through the throttle body blades. I can tell you when you turn out the lights in the garage, it gets dark real quick!!!
But the results are in and correct. When shinning the light through each secondary blade, there is no light what-so-ever coming through. When holding the light up to the primary blade from the back, you can see a good amount of light and also see how far the blade is open. I would venture to say that is my idle problem, no doubt.
Thanks George for the tip and btw, your PM box was fill as of early this AM.
Here are the pics....
light through the primary blade...

light turned off...see what I mean about it being dark.....

flashlight back on....


Now I have to decide and figure out the correct way to accomplish the task. I am not touching the secondary blades, except for a light clean up...hmmmm
maybe not!!!
Have to determine if both the min air adjustment procedure from Dominic and the application of the dry lube will correct the problem. Or just try to adjust the idle stop screw as it is in its present state, and also add the dry lube to help seal the perimeter of the primary blade.

Also looks like I need to sand the TB as some of the finish has cracked off and the top is bubbled, so it needs a refinish. Just might attempt to do it all in the engine compartment and not remove the throttle cable at all.

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

I noticed that. Jerry has all those stainless bolts ready to buy

Yes, for sure....that is where the first batch came from....

[Jagdpanzer]

Tom,
Thanks for sharing with the group. Here are a couple of photos of the difficult to adjust Allen set screw exchanged for a M5 x 0.8 25mm cap screw and full size nut. If you do this mod be sure to massage the contact end like shown in the bottom photo.

[XfireZ51]

Gap on the primary certainly looks greater than .002".