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#1 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,057
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If I do replace the exhaust on my car I'd like to put the beam plates in that I've got. Is this pretty straight forward,does anything need to be supported during the process?
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#2 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Once they're off, just slide the plates in place with the nuts over the holes, and thread the bolts up into the self-centering nuts. Bill provides some lugs to assist with positioning the transmission tail properly w/in the tunnel. If you don't have them, you can make them out of a wooden dowel rod. I had to take the torque off the motor mount nuts, along with the C-beam nuts, "center" the trans with the guide slugs, and then torque all the nuts down. Never had any drive train vibration, once everything was torqued/spaced. Good luck! .
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 295
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Follow Bill's guidelines for preparing the mating surfaces. A clean, flat contact area for the plates allows the torque specs to fully clamp down. Rough spots will allow for partial contact, thus loosening. Overtorquing the C-beam can lead to problems as well.
Transmission whine alignment shall be corrected at this time. Pay attention to step #4, removal of original washers, delete them. This is an important step. Problems corrected will be; gear shifter rising and rear-end kicking out when accelerating rapidly. Basically, car now launches much straighter, driveline feels a little bit more secured. Worth every penny, genius modification.
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1990 ZR-1 #1587 1990 ZR-1 #1727 |
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#4 | |
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Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,154
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 10-14-2017 at 03:20 PM. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,852
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It’s been a while since I did this. About to install a set on the new Z. Does it require the use of adhesive between the beam and the trans?
H ![]()
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#6 | |
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Location: South Dakota/California
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#7 | |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,057
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 773
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I did mine on jackstands in the garage - when I had to take it all out to replace pilot bushing. Something I did that I didn't see in the link - and I think it was in Bill's directions - was to use Window Weld between the plates and beam. I did this over a year ago so I can't remember exactly. And that chitt is NASTY. Be sure to use latex gloves because it will NOT come off your skin. I don't remember having to modify any wrenches to get the old ones off either. It was a pain but I got it.
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[LEFT][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/LEFT] [CENTER][COLOR=Indigo][SIZE=4][I][B] **Now Sold** 1990 ZR-1 #2093, Black on Black..[/B][/I][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER] |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,852
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Interesting... just checked the instructions included with Bills Beam Plates. No mention of adhesives.
H
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90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold 08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold 05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold 90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten 91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold. |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Westminster, Maryland
Posts: 3,687
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I recommend supporting the back of the motor or the transmission when the C-Beam bolts are loosened. It will be much easier to get all the bolts back in if the transmission position can be adjusted to align the C-Beam.
Jim
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If it isn't fun, you aren't doing it right! 1990 Black ZR-1 - sold 1993 Quasar Blue ZR-1 1994 Competition Yellow ZR-1 1995 Dark Purple ZR-1 Maryland State Coordinator WAZOO Member |
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