My first plenum pull!

[rudolph schenker]

I have wanted to get my plenum and cam covers refinished, so I contacted Jeff Flint and he gave me instructions for the process.







So far it has not been too bad I have my FSM and have been taking a lot of pics of the disassembly. I must admit the vacuum lines are quite intimidating ( I hope I can get them back together).





I took some pics of the injectors and wanted to know if they look normal. Car is a 94 with only has 28k.







Should I have Marc H. check these and test them?

Are there any tips or "do it while you are there" recommendations? All I have left to do is pull the brake booster then I can get the cam covers off and ship it all to Jeff.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by rudolph schenker

I hope I can get them back together.

Are there any tips or "do it while you are there" recommendations? All I have left to do is pull the brake booster then I can get the cam covers off and ship it all to Jeff.

Not to worry on getting it back together .........plenty of great help on this forum.

As for other tips or "do it while you are there"........
The Z is an adult Erector Set

Just check everything out under the plenum including starter, drain hole under starter, coil pack/coils (89 lb-in 2 small bolts, 19 lb-ft 2 large bolts), plug wires, vacuum lines, secondary canisters, check for oil leaks, cylinder case ventilation bolts (89 lb-in), secondary linkages, electrical plugs...........

For the most part, use blue loctite 242 or 262 (red) on almost everything I am not using any loctite on the plenum bolts since I am taking the plenum off prolly once a month just for the fun of it

Oh...ya....get a couple of good torque wrenches (1/4 inch and 3/8 inch) since we are working primarily with aluminum threaded parts

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by rudolph schenker

All I have left to do is pull the brake booster then I can get the cam covers off and ship it all to Jeff.

No..........you do not have to pull brake booster to get the cam covers off. Or for that matter to get the heads off.

Just remove nut on drivers side motor mount bolt and place jack with short 2x6 (lay flat between jack and oil pan) under oil pan. Jack engine up on drivers side about 3 inches more or less.

If the bolts on cam covers are the original torx, make sure you insert the torx wrench all the way into the top of the torx bolt and apply as much pressure as you can (pushing into the bolt) on the torx wrench as you break loose the torx bolt.

Now if you want to remove the heads without removing the brake booster, there is another trick on removing those long head bolts. There appears to be not enough room to extract them from the head without removing the brake booster

[rudolph schenker]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

No..........you do not have to pull brake booster to get the cam covers off. Or for that matter to get the heads off.

Just remove nut on drivers side motor mount bolt and place jack with short 2x6 (lay flat between jack and oil pan) under oil pan. Jack engine up on drivers side about 3 inches more or less.

If the bolts on cam covers are the original torx, make sure you insert the torx wrench all the way into the top of the torx bolt and apply as much pressure as you can (pushing into the bolt) on the torx wrench as you break loose the torx bolt.

Now if you want to remove the heads without removing the brake booster, there is another trick on removing those long head bolts. There appears to be not enough room to extract them from the head without removing the brake booster

I would love not to remove the brake booster, as it is a major PITA! Thanks for the tip! I'll try it!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by rudolph schenker

I took some pics of the injectors and wanted to know if they look normal. Car is a 94 with only has 28k.

Check the resistance of each injector. You should get around 13 to 14 Ohms on each of them

[secondchance]

Looking at the pics, it seems your 2ndary actuators are installed 180 degrees rotated - a common factory mishap.
Some claim, 2ndary will come on stronger if this condition is corrected. However, I have seen posts that after being installed rotated for a long time, actuators will not function correct if rotated into correct position. If I were you, I would rotate them into correct orientation, apply vacuum w/ hand held pump and see if it allows 2ndary to open w/ less amount of vacuum and also if correct position will open the 2ndary flap wider.
I know, some will chime in and say just disconnect the system...

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Just check everything out under the plenum including starter and drain hole under starter.

I would remove the coil frame with coils (4 bolts and do not drop the bolts) using a magnetic insert in my socket (89 lb-in 2 small bolts, 19 lb-ft 2 large bolts). I would then remove the starter (two bolts) and check the drain hole under starter which leads into a drain tube coming out just between the oil pan and bell housing (look underneath). Blow that hole out from the top with compressed air untill water drains freely.

Some guys drill a larger 3/8 inch hole to the drivers side of that drain hole out toward bell housing. I elected to not drill the second drain hole as I will just blow the original drain clean from the bottom of the drain tube once in a while with compressed air.

Use red Loctite 262 on two starter bolts when you reinstall starter and on four coil frame bolts when you reinstall the coils.

[rudolph schenker]

Ok, I pulled the cam covers. I ended up removing the brake booster after all ( I guess I need the full experience). Not super difficult, but not easy either.

Maybe a dumb question, are there gaskets for the cam covers?

Removing the seat was a PITA

Originally Posted by rudolph schenker

Ok, I pulled the cam covers. I ended up removing the brake booster after all ( I guess I need the full experience). Not super difficult, but not easy either.

Maybe a dumb question, are there gaskets for the cam covers?

Whoa, you mean your cam covers didn't have gaskets ????













Just kidding, it's got a anerobic sealant between the head and cam cover flange to seal. Shoot me an email and I'll give you an updated schedule.

[rudolph schenker]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I would remove the coil frame with coils (4 bolts and do not drop the bolts) using a magnetic insert in my socket (89 lb-in 2 small bolts, 19 lb-ft 2 large bolts). I would then remove the starter (two bolts) and check the drain hole under starter which leads into a drain tube coming out just between the oil pan and bell housing (look underneath). Blow that hole out from the top with compressed air untill water drains freely.

Some guys drill a larger 3/8 inch hole to the drivers side of that drain hole out toward bell housing. I elected to not drill the second drain hole as I will just blow the original drain clean from the bottom of the drain tube once in a while with compressed air.

Use red Loctite 262 on two starter bolts when you reinstall starter and on four coil frame bolts when you reinstall the coils.

I have not cleaned down by the drain hole yet, but it appeared open.