Belt Tensioner Removal

[XfireZ51]

Anybody got a tip on removing tensioner while in the car? Its a b*tch to get to. Removed airhorn for better access, plus gap between it and compressor did not alllow for belt removal. I have a chirping sound that follows engine speed. I undid the belt today and got no noise running the motor but no accessory drives.
Is it necessary to remove the evap canister and coolant crossover in order to get a grip on undoing bolt? I get a "click click" from tensioner as I spin it w my finger altho it spins smoothly. But I can hear the bearing. All other accessories make no noise. Very slight wobble in alternator pulley. Belt had a small chunk of one of the ribs missing.

[KPW]

You're most of the way there, air horn off and a ratcheting box wrench (low profile is key here).

Space is at a high premium in the front of the LT5...


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[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by KPW

You're most of the way there, air horn off and a ratcheting box wrench (low profile is key here).

Space is at a high premium in the front of the LT5...


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Tell me about the premium space. But it seems that there is significant torque on that bolt and I'm going to need more leverage on the box end wrench than I can get. Maybe a pipe that fits over the end of the wrench. Breaker bar isn't going to fit in there.

[KPW]

I'm a fan of the pipe extension breaker conversion

I will say that in putting it back on you should be able to tighten it enough with the wrench, but not so much as to need anything crazy to get it back off in the future.


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[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by KPW

I'm a fan of the pipe extension breaker conversion

I will say that in putting it back on you should be able to tighten it enough with the wrench, but not so much as to need anything crazy to get it back off in the future.


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The FSM calls for 45lbft. This feels like significantly more.

[Paul Workman]

FWIW, if you can't find the stock ZR-1 tensioner pulley, I am using one for an LT1 motor: it's flat, i.e, sans the ridges on the sides of the pulley.

At the time, I bought it over the counter from a local Chevy dealer.

[XfireZ51]

My understanding Paul is that u can use a LT1 pulley to rebuild the LT5 pulley.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

My understanding Paul is that u can use a LT1 pulley to rebuild the LT5 pulley.

I suppose you could gut an LT1 pulley for the bearings, but the LT1 works just fine w/o the guide ridges. Why bother? (You can't see it anyway!).

Sent you a picture:

Using a ratchet, box-end wrench, it is possible to access the 18mm bolt on the tensioner, WITHOUT moving/removing the A/C evap., nor is un-hooking one end of the coolant cross-over pipe necessary. Furthermore, removing the air-horn is optional, and if you can avoid removing it, so much the better.

Oh, it is tight; the front of an LT5. But, you should be able to do the tensioner w/o drastic measures (e.g., a pipe on the box-end wrench?)

Cheers!

[A26B]

http://www.jerrysgaskets.com/pulley-...oem-90-95-4e1/

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

I suppose you could gut an LT1 pulley for the bearings, but the LT1 works just fine w/o the guide ridges. Why bother? (You can't see it anyway!).

Sent you a picture:

Using a ratchet, box-end wrench, it is possible to access the 18mm bolt on the tensioner, WITHOUT moving/removing the A/C evap., nor is un-hooking one end of the coolant cross-over pipe necessary. Furthermore, removing the air-horn is optional, and if you can avoid removing it, so much the better.

Oh, it is tight; the front of an LT5. But, you should be able to do the tensioner w/o drastic measures (e.g., a pipe on the box-end wrench?)

Cheers!

See Item #8 if you want to be COOL LT5 Added Systems And with this Billet Aluminum Pulley you can easily replace just the Bearing.

This Belt Tensioner Pulley will fit the ZR-1 (LT5) as well as a standard C4 with L98 engine.
Ebay Billet Aluminum Belt Tensioner Pulley



Rather than a pipe on combination open end......just use another Combination wrench box end on the Open End.........


To get the 1/2 inch socket into the 1/2 inch square receiver of the Tensioner (for release of the serpentine belt), just lift the Tensioner a bit with broom handle and insert socket.....then compress Tensioner. Like Paul suggests....no need to remove ANYTHING to remove the Tensioner. Use a bit of Blue Loctite on Tensioner Bolt when installing and tighten just enough.....



I actually remove the Alternator Pulley when installing new belt as I have a "special Tool" to remove that alternator nut in a few seconds. Then I place the alternator pulley in the tensioner belt and install the pulley on the alternator.....DONE DEAL.



Oh.....by the way.....I invented a New Way to install the Serpentine Belt......Remove the Alternator Pulley (takes 1 minute) and position NEW Alternator Pulley inside Serpentine Belt and lift up the Alternator Pulley and Serpentine Belt with Belt Tensioner compressed (Keep Serpentine Belt aligned with Belt Tensioner Pulley). Now just slip the Alternator Pulley onto the shaft (very easy to do and plenty of play) and tighten up the 15/16 inch Alternator Pulley Nut.

All Aluminum Alternator Pulley