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Old 10-06-2020   #1
Paul Workman
 
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Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
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Default LED article in HOTB

This is a "last ditch" effort to work around my ISP (Hughes.net) which is blocking my emails for some reason, and I'm not agile enough to figure out how to attache it to a PM. SO!. If anyone else would care to see the article too, feel free to read it (attached).
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90 #1202
"FBI" top end ported & relieved
Cam timing by "Pete the Greek"
Sans secondaries
Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive
SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs

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Last edited by Paul Workman; 10-06-2020 at 09:41 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-06-2020   #2
Erik
 
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Location: New Brunswick
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Default Re: LED article in HOTB

Great articles.

Having worked around energy efficiency retrofits for years, let me reiterate that there are a lot of shady bulb manufacturers out there. Always buy products from a company you have heard of. That is, a major manufacturer. I?ve seen so many bulbs fail in a lot of ways. Some just burn out annoyingly quickly, while others like to burn pretty explosively.
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Old 10-06-2020   #3
Paul Workman
 
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Default Re: LED article in HOTB

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik View Post
Great articles.

Having worked around energy efficiency retrofits for years, let me reiterate that there are a lot of shady bulb manufacturers out there. Always buy products from a company you have heard of. That is, a major manufacturer. I?ve seen so many bulbs fail in a lot of ways. Some just burn out annoyingly quickly, while others like to burn pretty explosively.
Good points on the major bulb (LED) manufactures! The headlights, in particular that I spec'ed had "bulbs" by CREE. And, they build to spec (DOT) etc. and are (far as my experience goes) very reliable is it says the lights are CREE.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez!

90 #1202
"FBI" top end ported & relieved
Cam timing by "Pete the Greek"
Sans secondaries
Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive
SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs

Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry

Last edited by Paul Workman; 10-06-2020 at 01:47 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-06-2020   #4
ram_g
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 183
Default Re: LED article in HOTB

I just installed LED headlights this past week. After a fair amount of research, I used the "Yun method", as documented in this forum, to ground the foglamp relay - IMHO the easiest and most foolproof way. There is no need to cut any wires and no need to guess at anything - the foglamp relay is under the passenger side hush panel, furthest towards the passenger door. It is easy to remove and replace the relay - if you want to double check that you have the right one, just remove the relay and the foglamps will not work any more. The pin to be grounded is the one furthest away from the passenger door, i.e. closest to the next adjacent relay. As has been documented, a double bend in that pin allows for the circuit to be broken (and the pin appropriately grounded) while allowing the relay to be re-installed in place.

I used a replacement auto relay (they're all identical) so can easily swap back the original for a 100% return to stock.

This is the second time I owe Yun a big thanks!

Last edited by ram_g; 10-06-2020 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 10-16-2020   #5
Paul Workman
 
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Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
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Default Re: LED article in HOTB

Quote:
Originally Posted by ram_g View Post
I just installed LED headlights this past week. After a fair amount of research, I used the "Yun method", as documented in this forum, to ground the foglamp relay - IMHO the easiest and most foolproof way. There is no need to cut any wires and no need to guess at anything - the foglamp relay is under the passenger side hush panel, furthest towards the passenger door. It is easy to remove and replace the relay - if you want to double check that you have the right one, just remove the relay and the foglamps will not work any more. The pin to be grounded is the one furthest away from the passenger door, i.e. closest to the next adjacent relay. As has been documented, a double bend in that pin allows for the circuit to be broken (and the pin appropriately grounded) while allowing the relay to be re-installed in place.

I used a replacement auto relay (they're all identical) so can easily swap back the original for a 100% return to stock.

This is the second time I owe Yun a big thanks!
Ah, yup! That is covered in the article (w/ the schematic)...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 100-0 Hi Lo switch schematic.jpg (147.6 KB, 12 views)
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez!

90 #1202
"FBI" top end ported & relieved
Cam timing by "Pete the Greek"
Sans secondaries
Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive
SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs

Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry
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