LT5 Assembly Project

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Well I bought new head bolts from Jerry and received them today, perfect timing as the wife was out of the house when they arrived...thanks Jerry.

I cleaned some grime off the block, and then examined the pistons I truly think there are 2 that will need to go. But I am going to pull them and look at the sides to see how bad the damage is....maybe sand them alittle and see what happens.

I assume the next steps to access the crank bearings and pistons would be as follows:

Step 1: Remove the timing chains....

loosen tensioner:


and then unbolt the primary chain gear:


Any tricks or concerns on the tensioners? The secodary/cam chain tensioners were removed prior to shipping the motor.

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Make note of the oil hole on the idler gear for reinstallation. The almost last thing after timing I put on was the timing cover to build up oil pressure to watch and verify oil flow to idler gear and watch tensioners to work right without binding since I had never reset one before until then or I probably couldn't of slept.

Do you have the reset procedures for the tensioners? Marc Haibeck has some on his site and I've got some more that was posted a while back. Unless your getting new ones for 500 or so.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

The girdle is held on by a series of 10mm bolts internally seen here:

Almost forgot, oil pump might also have to come off.....open for feedback to those that have done this before.

Thanks

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Watch how the primary chain gear comes off the crank cause it's not murphy proof. 90 fmm shows it one way and the supplement fmm shows it the other way but I forget which one is right.

Oil pump will have to come off it your splitting the block. It's not fun to realign unless maybe you have the tool.

Not sure if it would help on tear down but hanging the engine upside down will make it easier to reinstall the chains so they don't bunch up.

Originally Posted by lbszr

Watch how the primary chain gear comes off the crank cause it's not murphy proof. 90 fmm shows it one way and the supplement fmm shows it the other way but I forget which one is right.

Oil pump will have to come off it your splitting the block. It's not fun to realign unless maybe you have the tool.

Not sure if it would help on tear down but hanging the engine upside down will make it easier to reinstall the chains so they don't bunch up.

Is your regular manual a prelim manual (white copy). Red copy page 6A2-49 and page 6A2B-24 show the same diagram in removing the crank sprocket.

Originally Posted by lbszr

Do you have the reset procedures for the tensioners? Marc Haibeck has some on his site and I've got some more that was posted a while back. Unless your getting new ones for 500 or so.

It's pretty much fool proof. You pull it apart, clean and compress and move the clip with a pick to retain.

[flyin ryan]

sounds like to me your doing good. one step at a time. keep it up. BTW, you have a way to measure piston to wall clearance, plus to see if you have any skirts collapsing, (the pistons your worried about)?

[A26B]

+Before removing the lower crankcase (girdle) you will need to remove the cam chains, oil pump, rods/pistons. The cast iron you see is cast into the aluminum, lower crankcase.

Glad the bolts arrived "timely".

[LGAFF]

Whats the story on replacement rings? What about Rod bolts, etc?


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

Whats the story on replacement rings? What about Rod bolts, etc?


LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

rings are no problem. rod bolts...you want to change or you think you need to change?

[LGAFF]

I thought rod bolts tended to stretch?

Who has the rings??

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

I thought rod bolts tended to stretch?

Who has the rings??

LGAFF
92 ZR1
#234

Total Seal in AZ. can do anything...FAST. let me know if you need a contact? they turn around rings for me in two-three days...crazy. don't get carried away though ...make sure your pistons are o.k. first