93 Starter Not Engaging

[karlaw]

Originally Posted by RubyredEd

Ok, I'll try removing the mat. Actually did not see any color wires that were any bigger than maybe 16 gauge.

Maybe I should jump out the clutch switch. Can it be seen without removing the lower dash panel?

Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[RubyredEd]

Took hush panel out and the bad news is there is no auxiliary fuse panel there! Inspected with a mirror and light and don't see any other panel. Could a 93 ZR1 be any different? Really starting to lose it on this mystery. To make this worse I turn the key and now nothing works! Turns out brand new battery totally dead. Did not see any evidence of battery drain when I installed it a few weeks ago. I disconnected negative and put it on 10 amp charge, I guess will reconnect Monday and see what happens.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

PASS-K~Y'"~(CC~NTJ
The.ignition key must be clean-and dry
before it's inserted-in the ignition or the
engine may not start. If the SECURITY
light comes on, the key may be dirty or
wet.
If this happens and the starter.won't
work; turn the ignition off. 'Clean and
dry tkkey, wait three ,minutes and try
again. If the starter still won't work,
wait three minutes and try the other
iation key. At this time, you may also
want to &e& the' fuse&. (see the Index
under Fuses C Circuit Brg~kers). I€ the .- staer won't work with the other key,
ymr vehicle needs service. If your
vehicle does start, the fkst ignition key
may be faulty. See your Chevrolet
d.ealer or a locksmith who. can service
the PA.SS-Kcy;" ... 56
~
-
However, if you accidentally use a key
that has a damaged or missing.resistor
pellet, you will see no SECURITY
light. You don't have to wait three.
minutes before.trying the proper key.
If the -resistor pellet is damaged m
missing, the-starter won't work. Use the
other ignition key, and see your
Chevrolet dealer or-a locksmith who
can service the PASS-Key" to have a
new key made.
If the SECURITY light comes on while
dri+ing, have your vihicle serviced 'as
suon as possible.
If you lose or damage a PASS-Key'"
ignition key, see .your Chevrolet dealer
or a locksmith who can service PASSKey



From the 93 owners manual
You state your light NEVER comes on.
You are going to have to get the resistance of your ignition key circuit confirmed to ensure you are using a key with the appropriate resistance.
Marty

[RubyredEd]

Why is it I don't see an auxiliary fuse panel?

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

The only answer I can provide is they must have done away with it.
When using a 93 FSM. it has three parts, the FSM, a drivability supplement,
and an electrical diagnosis manual.
The electrical diagnosis manual is the same since 1990. It is even printed with 1990 on the cover.
I believe you when you say the panel is not there, as some of the other fuses it contained are now found on the 93 main panel, or one of the two panels under hood.
There is no mention of it being removed in the 93 FSM.

If it were me, not knowing what circuit the THEFT is powered from, I would remove and check every fuse in the main panel. Also check the two PKE fuses.

I then would follow the programming instructions for your PKE which are in your owners manual.
Once you have the PKE working properly, you should be able to arm and disarm the THEFT system, which will enable you to determine if indeed you are not getting past the VATS.
Once the THEFT works if you get no Security Light then that is telling you either the key is not being read, it is the wrong key, or there is a short in the circuit as discussed in one of my first posts.
A security light and it's operation or failure can help diagnose what is going on.
Your dead battery concerns me.
Something is going on.
Can you re=state fully when it last worked and what happened afterwards?
Marty

[RubyredEd]

The car started and ran in August even though I did have to charge the battery. I let it run to full temp. I was away until early November at which time about mid November I was trying to start the car when I could no longer charge the battery. I replaced it with a new 700 cca battery and got all dash lights and underhood lights but not security light. This is when this all started.

[A26B]

I remember a case just like this that ended up being a loose/bad connection at the battery. The connection was sufficient to illuminate lights but not strong enough to operate the starter. It could be cable/terminal not clean or tight, or even a broken terminal in the battery.

Since all your troubles started with battery replacement, I suggest you go through the same steps you took when replacing the battery only check connections & cables closer & consider having the new battery load tested.

About batteries & CCA ratings
The greater the CCA, the thinner the plates in the battery. The thinner the plates are, the more likely they are to failure from high discharge loads. Higher CCA does not necessarily equate to being the best battery for the intended use.
Good read on batteries.
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/...n_modern_times

Excerpt from the foregoing link:
"Plate Thickness
The service life of a lead-acid battery can, in part, be measured by the thickness of the positive plates. The thicker the plates, the longer the life will be. During charging and discharging, the lead on the plates gets gradually eaten away and the sediment falls to the bottom. The weight of a battery is a good indication of the lead content and the life expectancy."

So, for cars like ours that typically are not daily drivers that must see use in very cold weather. the most important feature would be reserve capacity (RC). Since High CCA batteries are heavier and we really don't need to start our cars in sub-freezing conditions, go for a lower CCA battery. It's lighter & will last longer.

[RubyredEd]

Will be checking all fuses and battery connections tomorrow! Thanks for the advice.

[RubyredEd]

Ok, today checked battery and all connections. All connections were tight and battery voltage was 12.9 volts. Checked all fuses in primary fuse panel and both maxi panels under hood. The right side courtesy light 5 amp mini fuse was blown so of course I thought I had found the cause, but no such luck. Still no crank, all dash lights come on but never see the security light. I can't remember if the security light used to light up then go off. I hear the fuel pumps and vacumn pump but starter does not spin. I checked the resistance on the key and it was reading 3.71 ohms on the 20 k scale. Also cleaned the key with electronic cleaner spray then dried it. Also when key is in the ignition and door is open there is no chime. There hasn't been any chiming since this problem started. Is this related? Also, no interior lights come on when door is opened, but underhood lights do work. Help!

[RubyredEd]

Also, forgot to mention, there were no instructions in my owners manual for reprogramming the PKE. The remote fob is not working either passive or by actually pushing buttons.