WAZOO Day Success 1/21/17

[secondchance]

Tom,

Don't replace the alternator over a minor interference. First, check the metal shield/trim above the alternator. If not careful, that piece can bend down easily. Look carefully as you turn the alternator pulley. It shouldn't be too difficult to see where it is rubbing.

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Tom,

Don't replace the alternator over a minor interference. First, check the metal shield/trim above the alternator. If not careful, that piece can bend down easily. Look carefully as you turn the alternator pulley. It shouldn't be too difficult to see where it is rubbing.

I hear you Yun, it seems that one of the blades is making contact with the housing itself. I pried or bent everyone out, and it did work as mentioned, but now it is constant........ will do some more tonight, and I have all day tomorrow......

[secondchance]

Worst case scenario, impact wrench can easily remove the nut (7/8" if I remember correct) and the fan can be replaced with another from a failed alternator.

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Worst case scenario, impact wrench can easily remove the nut (7/8" if I remember correct) and the fan can be replaced with another from a failed alternator.

Looks like the worst case scenario is happening, gave up on trying to pry the
blade(s). Still hits in one or two spots.....don't know if my electric impact is strong enough to break the nut loose.....we shall see, I doubt it though!!!

[Roadster]

Latest update.....
Finally, yes finally got the alternator fan blade rubbing problem corrected. After bending, prying, filing, etc., noise has been eliminated. Fan was hitting the housing in 2 maybe 3 locations. Anyway, it's done!!!

Took the 94 out for a ride and I have to learn how to drive the Z allover again. On a slight roll out of first gear WOT approaching 5500 rpm's it starts breaking loose. It definitely feels like another vehicle. The power is amazing, and I thought it was quick before!!! What did I know!!! Power is just stronger all the way around with the secondaries now being functional.
Even though I run 93 fuel in the tank, decided to add a little Sunoco 260 plus Racing Fuel. Took 2 gal and away I went.

Still have the idle issue even after cleaning the IAC. Sometimes it idles at 1000-1100 r's when stopped, other times 800-900 r's when stopped.
A minor issue at this time, otherwise I need to get to the track someday and get some 1/4 times. That would be interesting.

[mike100]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Latest update.....
Finally, yes finally got the alternator fan blade rubbing problem corrected. After bending, prying, filing, etc., noise has been eliminated. Fan was hitting the housing in 2 maybe 3 locations. Anyway, it's done!!!

Took the 94 out for a ride and I have to learn how to drive the Z allover again. On a slight roll out of first gear WOT approaching 5500 rpm's it starts breaking loose. It definitely feels like another vehicle. The power is amazing, and I thought it was quick before!!! What did I know!!! Power is just stronger all the way around with the secondaries now being functional.
Even though I run 93 fuel in the tank, decided to add a little Sunoco 260 plus Racing Fuel. Took 2 gal and away I went.

Still have the idle issue even after cleaning the IAC. Sometimes it idles at 1000-1100 r's when stopped, other times 800-900 r's when stopped.
A minor issue at this time, otherwise I need to get to the track someday and get some 1/4 times. That would be interesting.

Since you just did a plenum pull, it is highly likely one of the larger vacuum hoses popped off (probably the curly-q one). Welcome to the under plenum vacuum leak club. Pulling the plenum twice is par for the course. try blocking the air horn and see if the engine keeps running.

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by mike100

Since you just did a plenum pull, it is highly likely one of the larger vacuum hoses popped off (probably the curly-q one). Welcome to the under plenum vacuum leak club. Pulling the plenum twice is par for the course. try blocking the air horn and see if the engine keeps running.

I hear you there Mike, but my vacuum pump just comes on at start-up for 2 seconds and shuts off. I would assume if there is a leak the pump would run again to compensate for the loss. We really went over the vacuum lines and made sure they were secure as the plenum was being dropped.
Hoping that there is a throttle cable or TPS adjustment to correct the issue.
It's really no biggie, as I don't get any pre-ignition when shutting down the engine at the higher rpm. It just shuts off.
Idle doesn't hunt, fluctuate or have an out of control very high idle when stopped. If it stops at 1000-1100 rpm's, it stays there, if it stops at 800-900 rpm's it also stays there. That's why leaning towards a minor adjustment rather than a dreaded vacuum leak.....lol

[mike100]

Originally Posted by Roadster

I hear you there Mike, but my vacuum pump just comes on at start-up for 2 seconds and shuts off. I would assume if there is a leak the pump would run again to compensate for the loss. We really went over the vacuum lines and made sure they were secure as the plenum was being dropped.
Hoping that there is a throttle cable or TPS adjustment to correct the issue.
It's really no biggie, as I don't get any pre-ignition when shutting down the engine at the higher rpm. It just shuts off.
Idle doesn't hunt, fluctuate or have an out of control very high idle when stopped. If it stops at 1000-1100 rpm's, it stays there, if it stops at 800-900 rpm's it also stays there. That's why leaning towards a minor adjustment rather than a dreaded vacuum leak.....lol

the secondary vacuum pump is isolated system just for the secondary circuit. It also has the nickel sized one-way check valve and the little mini reservoir. The large manifold tube that could be leaking is for the gas tank purge solenoid. It opens for about 10-ish seconds when you start the car so the engine can consume the vapor air on top of the tank and out of the charcoal canister. This is when the idle is high for a few moments and you wouldn't notice the leak. then the solenoid closes capping off the huge leak. If the hose popped off, you have the 1100 rpm idle all the time except first thing when the engine is cold.

If you have a scanner, you can look at the IAC counts. If that number is zero, then the iac is closed off as much as it can and will not be able to lower the idle any further. zero counts is usually indicative of a stuck open throttlebody, leaky throttle body, or large vacuum leak.

Other vacuum leaks that are large enough could be the pcv cross-over tube thing...if that split, it will let a lot of air in. try the book across the airhorn trick to try to stall the engine at idle. If it still continues to run, you can hear the vacuum leak pretty easily.

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by mike100

the secondary vacuum pump is isolated system just for the secondary circuit. It also has the nickel sized one-way check valve and the little mini reservoir. The large manifold tube that could be leaking is for the gas tank purge solenoid. It opens for about 10-ish seconds when you start the car so the engine can consume the vapor air on top of the tank and out of the charcoal canister. This is when the idle is high for a few moments and you wouldn't notice the leak. then the solenoid closes capping off the huge leak. If the hose popped off, you have the 1100 rpm idle all the time except first thing when the engine is cold.

If you have a scanner, you can look at the IAC counts. If that number is zero, then the iac is closed off as much as it can and will not be able to lower the idle any further. zero counts is usually indicative of a stuck open throttlebody, leaky throttle body, or large vacuum leak.

Other vacuum leaks that are large enough could be the pcv cross-over tube thing...if that split, it will let a lot of air in. try the book across the airhorn trick to try to stall the engine at idle. If it still continues to run, you can hear the vacuum leak pretty easily.

Copy on the secondary vacuum pump for the secondary circuit.
The nickel size one-way check valve was replaced, as it was very loose inside the connector. The mini reservoir, was checked out also and was fine. I had a spare NOS unit just in case. I am almost sure we changed out the purge solenoid too, have to check out the parts taken off.
Hopefully that hose did not pop off, we made sure everything was secure...
The thing is I don't have the 1100 rpm idle all of the time, sometimes yes, sometimes no...

I have the Tech 1 so I will check the IAC counts this weekend.

That PCV cross-over tube had a split in it and was replaced. I tried to make sure I had all of the vacuum lines and other connectors needed before we started the job. Glad I did, although some lines were good, others were bad.

Really should not be any vacuum leak at all.....

Appreciate the info and the suggestions, other than the idle issue, it is truly running like a BEAST!!!!

[mike100]

that curly-q tube is hard to keep in place while you are setting the plenum down. That's why I mention it... or it could have popped out of the rubber block on the solenoid end. I scuffed mine up with sandpaper so it would stay in the rubber coupler block thing.