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#41 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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1/16-NPT then and it's still 27TPI. 1/16 NPT certainly isn't found very often but I'd guess it's what you've found OR maybe actually a metric affair but it sure would seem unlikely. I would think they would have supplied information and I might have guessed even applied a sticker/decal or something to keep the user from screwing up an initial install.
*** I doubt the metric and am inclined to think the 1/16-NPT. If you do call I'd be interested in an explanation of "WHY". Maybe there's a very good reason. Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-02-2015 at 09:38 AM. |
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#42 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 977
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It's 1/8" npt and so far so good.
Fluidyne didn't return my phone calls either. Oh well.
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1993 ZR-1 #211 Yellow On Beige Beast #2 1992 ZR-1 #427 Black On Black *Sold* 1985 L98 Blue On Blue *Sold* |
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#43 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,139
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So is a 3 core overkill? S that ever decided in this thread?
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#44 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 451
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I do believe the stock system was excellent and worked well, if it was in good condition. But over the years, tubes clog, vanes get bent, things can corrode, and it wasn't working like it was designed to. After my upgrades, that car ran right around 195 degrees all the time, just like it should. FWIW I love 928s, really are the "German Corvette" with significantly higher quality. But I will never own another one. Without question, the most expensive cars I have ever run...and I have a Ferrari in the garage! Amen. I have spent a lot of time working through cooling systems, both stock and upgraded, on a multitude of cars, both street and track driven. My own opinion is stock is usually best for almost all situations, as long as it's in optimal condition. Get the stock system right, and you won't have any problems. I live in Atlanta, as hot a humid a place as anywhere in the US. My own ZR-1, in summer traffic jams with the a/c on, will run a little warm until the fans come on. Then the temp drops back down exactly like it's supposed to. Get the radiator clean, run it like Hib says, and it should work well.
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Mark '90 ZR-1 #1322 Daily Driver, 64k and counting Black/Gray [IMG]http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb49/mlitherland/IMG_0326_zps3d50d8cb.jpg[/IMG] |
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#45 |
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Chicago
Posts: 977
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I do not think a 3 row/core radiator is overkill. If I had more patience to modify the fan shroud and radiator mounts I would have used the Champion 3 row unit I have. But since all my a/c stuff is new and I did not want open a can of worms I did not want to take a chance of messing up modifying the lower radiator mounts while they are still in the car.
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1993 ZR-1 #211 Yellow On Beige Beast #2 1992 ZR-1 #427 Black On Black *Sold* 1985 L98 Blue On Blue *Sold* |
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#46 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,707
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I don't think it's simple as number of cores. Actual engine cooling seems would depend on number of variables - flow rate, core to fin heat transfer rate, fins to air heat transfer rate, at least.
As for the flow rate, too slow would result in inefficient coolant cooling and too fast would hamper core to fin heat transfer also resulting in inefficient cooling. Main reason I opted for aftermarket radiator is because I had two OEM radiators fail (typically at 80,000 miles plus/minus) and, with minimal clearance between the fins, are prone to clogging with small particulates. Also, I am hoping dual core construction of Dewitt unit may improve core to fin heat transfer. We shall see... |
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#47 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jupiter, Fl.
Posts: 815
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Pete, if that's true why not find a NOS one, or search the bone yards. C4's are all very similar, wouldn't it be a logical solution to add a GM engineered solution that already exists?
For what it's worth, i've got a Bee Cool radiator, a 160deg. Thermo., and a manual fan switch. That seems to work well for me here in the sub-tropics. I also used Evans Propylene Glycol coolan,t (100%), for about ten years too, but I've found that the green stuff and water actually cools a little better.
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"It's about the car, not the people." 1991 ZR-1 White/Black #1236 (Owner since 1994). Stock engine with bolt-ons: Hurst shifter,"Forced Air" intake, Coplon duct, Bee Cool Radiator, Demon coils, Jeal prom, Watson headers, X pipe, 3" B&B's, Rippie flywheel, 4:10 gears, A molds, Toyo Proxes-R888's 12.06@117mph. 1.76 60ft. |
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#48 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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All C4 Corvettes with "pusher fans" were '89 or earlier when the radiator was mounted "vertically" in the radiator supports. In '90 the radiator mounting was changed so there's NO OE "pusher" that would work for the '90+ arrangement.
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#49 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,677
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The 84 was a "sucker". I think the C4 went thru several changes in the orientation of radiators during its build.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Former Membership Chairman Former ZR-1 Registry - BOD 1972 Corvette 4speed base Coupe SOLD long time ago 1984 Corvette Z-51/4+3 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Aqua/Gray #474 SOLD 1992 Corvette ZR-1 Black Rose/Cognac #458 2014 Honda VFR Interceptor DX |
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#50 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,889
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'84 was the only year that didn't offer the secondary/AUX fan. There's only 2 orientations, '84 - '89 and '90+. Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-08-2015 at 09:47 PM. |
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