TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by carter200

You need my billet EGR plate to replace that nasty black piece you have there......

Send me a pic and info whenever you can.....

[Roadster]

Looking over Marc's papers on the TB, apparently the info mentioned in his
Throttle Body Service page points more to a vacuum leak for me, rather than the TB itself. There have also been other members who have stated the same thing.
And also learned something else on this read, and that is, that Dag is not used on the primary throttle blade.


Just for clarification, the sentence below was JMO, was not read anywhere...
Of course the leak can be so minor and only occur when the engine goes in Closed Loop.
I think a gasket change is in order and a complete check of every line.
I also need to find a 1/4" drive T-40 or a thinner 3/8" drive T-40 socket when torqueing down the plenum bolts. There are 2 bolts, 1 on each side of the plenum between the runners, that is very tight to get in there. I had to use a 6mm Allen key and a spark plug socket to go over the Allen key for leverage with a short extension and the 3/8" ratchet to break 1 of those bolts loose.
So if anyone knows where I can get a thin walled T-40, it would be appreciated.

Found an extended Torx set in 3/8" drive that will work perfect....

[XfireZ51]

"Of course the leak can be so minor and only occur when the engine goes in Closed Loop."

This does not happen. A vacuum leak is a vacuum leak. It doesn't care about open or closed loop. There's nothing that happens in closed loop that would create a vacuum leak if there wasn't one there already.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by Roadster

....
Do you carry the part where the hoses connect into??? the bottom hole in the connector is the "curly" line connected to the LSF of the plenum.

No I do not have it. I can tell you that the single zip tie around the whole rubber connector will do more to create vacuum leaks than to prevent.
EDIT, text added: Zip ties can be used, but work much better if you slice out enough rubber between the pipe holes to use 2 zip-ties, 1 around each pipe. If you do that, it means you will connect/disconnect the pipe at the other end during plenum pulls, where the small spring clamp is.

I haven't personally done what I'm about to suggest, but have sure thought about it while having difficulty with that pipe & the rubber connector. Why not cut off a short section of the plastic pipe & glue it into the connector? Then get a section of vacuum hose long enough to eliminate the looped section of plastic pipe so it's not so hard to install.

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

"Of course the leak can be so minor and only occur when the engine goes in Closed Loop."

This does not happen. A vacuum leak is a vacuum leak. It doesn't care about open or closed loop. There's nothing that happens in closed loop that would create a vacuum leak if there wasn't one there already.

Then is there something else that would let the idle be "normal" in Open Loop, but change when in Closed Loop and only change when you are driving, therefore putting a load on the engine?
Could it be something in the PCV system, or have anything to do with the charcoal line, or canister?
Could it be that the "curly" line came loose in its connection but not totally out?

If I start the engine for the first time, and just sit there, which I did on occasion, then the idle is "normal" no matter what I do in either Open or Closed Loop. I can rev the engine 2k or higher and it will come back to normal. It's only when I start driving and by that time the engine is warming up and in Closed Loop, was when I would be getting the high idle at a complete stop.
But then if I pulled over and stopped and shut the engine down, upon restart the idle would be "normal" until the next stop.

I know this is repeating myself from previous posts, but just trying to figure it out and learn along the way.

I also know probably the only way to determine the issue is by process of elimination. After I do whatever I need to do and get it back together, I'll have to see what happens....

Anyway, good conversation from all....appreciated.....

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by A26B

No I do not have it. I can tell you that the single zip tie around the whole rubber connector will do more to create vacuum leaks than to prevent.

I haven't personally done what I'm about to suggest, but have sure thought about it while having difficulty with that pipe & the rubber connector. Why not cut off a short section of the plastic pipe & glue it into the connector? Then get a section of vacuum hose long enough to eliminate the looped section of plastic pipe so it's not so hard to install.

Sounds like a plan, since I won't have it back together for awhile. Good suggestion.
Yun had also mentioned about gluing that end into the connector.

That connector also feels very soft, don't know if it is supposed to be that way, or is that from the heat generated in that location???

[carter200]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Send me a pic and info whenever you can.....

You have an email with pic and price

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by carter200

You have an email with pic and price

Thank you sir, will check it out today....

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Craig that TB looks great, now only if I could persuade you to let it go for some Philly Cheesesteaks & Hoagies and $$$.....lol just had to try!!!

Just going to take my time and get this idle issue fixed. A learning experience for sure. Also will wait and see what the results are with mine before thinking about sending the TB out to Marc for a check-up.

Glad you enjoy the pics, I enjoy taking them!!!
Keep us posted on your progress too...

Hey Tom,
Thanks for your thoughts. I can't even get myself to break the seal on the packaging to know I really want to use it let alone sell it. Those cheesesteaks and hoagies sound tempting though....

You are approaching it the right way to take your time and do it right. I'm gong to do the same to confirm what the real issue is, but earlier discussions with Marc point to TB issues. If I could put my car down for a few weeks I rather send the TB to Marc if so, but my situation here poses some challenges for down time with the Z.

You're almost as thorough as Dynomite Cliff and you're going to help folks out with all the details and photos. Will post up when I get to my projects and just collecting up all the parts now while waiting on extra top end components. Thanks for sharing.

[Roadster]

Another side note brought to my attention, the connector shown in post #39 is for the EVAP lines. I had mentioned that I thought it may have been the PCV pigtail, which it is not. I stand corrected!!!