Header install tips and tricks??

[Kb7tif]

Posts appreciated. Much thanks.

[ScottZ95ZR1]

I pulled the exhaust and started on the passenger side. Got the shields and right cat off and stopped after the damn clip on the EGR tube into the exhaust manifold whooped on me for a while. I think Nick mentioned prying it off with a big screwdriver in his How-To write up but I had no joy with that. Hope someone can help me out here?
I also broke the clip on the engine side of the O2S connector - that thing sure was brittle as I barely applied any force and it snapped.

I read more than one post in which guys made multiple trips to buy more tools. Roger that - I'm another. I also read the driver's side is the more difficult. I will see what it has in store for me if I ever get the damn EGR tube out and the easy manifold off.

Originally Posted by ScottZ95ZR1

Got the shields and right cat off and stopped after the damn clip on the EGR tube into the exhaust manifold whooped on me for a while. I think Nick mentioned prying it off with a big screwdriver in his How-To write up but I had no joy with that.

Yea, the clips suck. Basically it's a metal band that is clipped and has a little trapezoid spot. That is where you need to insert a screw driver and open it up at. You can also use a set of cutting dykes.

[Dynomite]

Removing the original exhaust system is a lot easier if you have a 3/8 inch swivel, a set of flex metric ratchet wrenches, and a set of 3/8 inch wobble extensions

A set of 3/8 inch metric sockets and 3/8 inch socket wrench is obvious

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything.

Sears has them all......along with the 17 mm transmission plug allen wrench

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=6655&page=7

[ScottZ95ZR1]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

Yea, the clips suck. Basically it's a metal band that is clipped and has a little trapezoid spot. That is where you need to insert a screw driver and open it up at. You can also use a set of cutting dykes.

Thanks Jeff. Then I may just go right to the dykes and cut the biatch.
Appreciate your feedback and also for your hooking me up with all the parts needed for the install.

[ScottZ95ZR1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Removing the original exhaust system is a lot easier if you have a 3/8 inch swivel, a set of flex metric ratchet wrenches, and a set of 3/8 inch wobble extensions

A set of 3/8 inch metric sockets and 3/8 inch socket wrench is obvious

I use the wobble extensions on almost everything.

Sears has them all......along with the 17 mm transmission plug allen wrench

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...?t=6655&page=7

Thanks Caught this in the other thread when I was getting ready to start and it certainly made the exhaust an easy chore.

[Kb7tif]

Little cool out there is it not?
The work will be very satisfying when complete. Piece of cake

[z proud]

It's been a few years with my SW headers, no coating, no header wrap, sat in stop and go traffic for up to an hour, with marks chip it never gets much past 210 or so on summer days 80 to 100 degree heat, enjoy them,

[orthodoct]

There is controversy on the Registry regarding the length of Stage 8 bolts to use. I realize that the flange on my new SW headers will not be the same thickness as the stock manifolds, or will it? The Stage 8 kit for the ZR1 is 8mm x 1.25, 30 mm length. Dynomite mentioned using 8905 (20 ea, 8mm x 1.25 x 25 mm) and 8mm x 1.25 x 22mm which I can't find ANYWHERE (the 22mm ones). Having never done this before, are the bolt lengths different depending on where they go, or am I making a "mountain out of a molehill". Will the bolts supplied by SW suffice? I am planning on sending the headers to Jet Hot for ceramic coating. Seems as if SW doesn't do it. Sounds like it really knocks down underhood temperatures and cauterized adjacent structures (the surgeon in me coming out!) Thanks, guys. INCREDIBLE SITE! I have completely rebuilt the top end of my LT5 due to ruined injectors due to lousy E10 gas, PCV leak with lots of oil, replaced fuel pump assembly due to same, installed Elite Engineering catch can. Lots of solvent, q tips and paper towels. Bought a parts washer and was a very good investment. Any advice would be very appreciated. Jerry Downey and I have become great friends. He is an incredible resource and a patient, tolerant man who never seeems to tire of my questions. How do I become a member?

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!
orthodoct

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by orthodoct

Dynomite mentioned using 8905 (20 ea, 8mm x 1.25 x 25 mm) and 8mm x 1.25 x 22mm which I can't find ANYWHERE (the 22mm ones). Having never done this before, are the bolt lengths different depending on where they go, or am I making a "mountain out of a molehill".

The bolts are not different lengths depending on where they go. Either length bolt is fine...just more selection if one is out of stock.

LT5 Summit Racing M-9432-A54
LT5 8mm x 1.25 The underhead length is 22 mm or about .87 inches

LT5 Summit Racing 8905
LT5 8mm x 1.25 The underhead length is 25 mm or about .98 inches

Originally Posted by orthodoct

installed Elite Engineering catch can.

Here is an installation of Elite Engineering Catch Can


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