WOT Tuning

[Jerry#397]

What is the purpose of the Oil thermo., could it be for those folks in the mid west and eastern states that have those misable winters? Most folks that have a car that is driven hard install "oil coolers", yet they don't have thermostats, so why is there one on the ZR1?

Will be inspecting my cooling system thermostat this week as I don't believe I should be seeing high temps with the RD radiator no matter how hard the car is driven.

Tyler keep posting those "nuggets" of info.

Thanks,
Jerry

[Tyler Townsley]

Originally Posted by Jerry#397

What is the purpose of the Oil thermo., could it be for those folks in the mid west and eastern states that have those misable winters? Most folks that have a car that is driven hard install "oil coolers", yet they don't have thermostats, so why is there one on the ZR1?

Thanks,
Jerry

According to Geoff the oil cooler setup was kept to help HEAT the oil in cold climates. When they did cold weather testing the proxmity of the cooler to the radiator and the minimal flow helped the car come up to temp faster thus pass the emission testing. With the high thermo opening it was not really designed as a functional oil cooler.

Tyler

[Jerry#397]

Tyler,

Thanks for the reply. I am still confused on the water bypass around the rad.; if the spring is cut why would you have to plug the bypass if the thermostat is what sends the water thru the bypass?

Jerry

[Jerry#397]

Jeff,

Where did you get a 170F thermostat, I find only 180F and of course the $100plus 160F?

Jerry

[Tyler Townsley]

Originally Posted by Jerry#397

Tyler,

Thanks for the reply. I am still confused on the water bypass around the rad.; if the spring is cut why would you have to plug the bypass if the thermostat is what sends the water thru the bypass?

Jerry

I ran mine both ways. I started without pluging the bypass then ran it with a plug to see if there would be any difference. I did not notice any difference but left it in to make sure there was no hot water leakage around the radiator.

Tyler

[jonszr1]

Originally Posted by Jerry#397

Jeff,

Where did you get a 170F thermostat, I find only 180F and of course the $100plus 160F?

Jerry

randy woods he also sellls the under drive pullies . he also has a 165 therm that lets our cars run right at 180 . i got that one and love it . the 160 doesnt let the car go into closed loop.hes under specilized racing products . hope this helps

[Jerry#397]

John,
Do you have a web site address for Randy Woods?

Tyler,

If I cut the thermostat spring as indicated in the picture you posted will it allow for bypassing the Rad. when it's cold? I think I understand how it works at high RPM and thus cutting the spring will get rid of that problem but what about warm up, the water needs to go somewhere when the thermo is in the closed position?

Jerry

[jonszr1]

go on the links page on the registry and find specialized racing products click that and your home

[Tyler Townsley]

Originally Posted by Jerry#397

John,

If I cut the thermostat spring as indicated in the picture you posted will it allow for bypassing the Rad. when it's cold? I think I understand how it works at high RPM and thus cutting the spring will get rid of that problem but what about warm up, the water needs to go somewhere when the thermo is in the closed position?

Jerry

Cutting the heavy spring opens the thermo all the time as you are cutting the spring that opens the water flow as the water warms up. IE In the stock configuration when cold the bypass is opened by pressure because the main water route is plugged. As the water flows down the bypass it warms the thermo and it opens to allow flow through the radiator. This drop in pressure closes the bypass and forces water through the radiator until it is opened by pressure brought about by the increased rpms. I also think this design increases the failure rate of the water pumps.

Tyler

[Jerry#397]

Tyler,

If I read your reply correctly it seems to me that one could "plug" the bypass line and remove the thermostat?

Thanks,
Jerry