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#31 |
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Location: TX
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You are correct Jeff. It is in the FSM and there are some explanations available by doing a Google search.
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#32 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
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any more progress?
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#33 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: TX
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Not yet. My plan is to come up with something to simulate the key resistance and plug it into the key lock harness.
Just need a little time, which I have been short of the last couple of days, to chase down what I need to rig it up. Main problem is that I am a little farther than in the middle of nowhere from anywhere!! ![]() ![]() ![]() I'll figure something out and keep everyone updated.
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#34 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
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#35 | |
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Location: TX
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That is what I am trying to do. I have followed the FSM trouble shooting and intend to verify before randomly changing parts. I have checked things that were suggested, but with the codes I am getting and the FSM procedure telling me it is in the key lock circuit, I am going to follow this path until it is either verified or proven incorrect. All I have in it to this point is my time which is generally not worth much!! ![]()
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#36 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: TX
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This one has been a journey!!
All the indications I was getting from codes and tests indicated the key lock circuit in the steering column. Followed the FSM troubleshooting chart. Sometimes I would get a higher voltage reading than recommended, so chased that side also. This was a slight discrepancy. ie: 5.2v vs 5.6v. As I could not source something to make a resistor out of locally, I had to order what I needed. Got it and verified correct resistance for my car. Hooked this up and still had the same issue. What the hell? Security light still stays on steady and I can't get the code to go away in the ECM. The CCM codes cleared. At this point I am trying to find enough hair on my head so I can pull it out!!! Looks like I'm on my own now, so start checking all of the security system components. I started by trying to remember anything I had done to the car recently that might affect this. I had cleaned the inside of the rear glass and a defroster wire came loose. I had reconnected it. This did not sound like a security issue, but checked anyway. Had also cycled the door locks while checking the security system operation. Everything in the drivers door checked OK. BUT, and here it is!!! The passenger door lock was not making good contact. Who would have thought?? Anyway, it is operating properly now. Now I can go on to doing little picky things to it and not have nightmares about wiring schematics. ![]()
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#37 |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: palatine il.
Posts: 36
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.....well Ill keep that in the memory banks. Good for you. Now enjoy the car...you earned it.
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#38 | |
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Location: TX
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To be clear, the initial no-start issue was the key lock cylinder in the column. Erratic resistance readings. I still have it bypassed and will change it sometime. The passenger door lock issue arose while in the midst of troubleshooting the original problem. It did not raise it's ugly head until I had eliminated the original problem. ![]()
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#39 | |
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: palatine il.
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and just when you think you have it, you dont. Been there many times. At least it showed its ugly face when you corrected the main issue. Broken wires are the worst..at least you didnt have that! Cheers |
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#40 | |
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Here's a pic of one of my Reno races. Reno '90.jpg ![]()
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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