Need Guidance ASAP!!!!

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

If the fuel pump (s) sender assembly has not been replaced BEFORE doing ANYTHING else on a low mile, long stored ZR-1, then that would be a VERY big no-no.

I will try to get pictures of the last dozen or more fuel pump assemblies that have been removed from low mile ZR-1's at our dealership.
All are nothing but rust flakes held together by the fuel tubes.
Each one we do seems worse than the one before it.
I will soon do the assembly in my car just because of the horrific messes that we have encountered in others.

Is is not specific to ZR-1's. Most all C-4's by now should have had the unit replaced. It is one of the most common repairs we make on C-4's, having done hundreds of them.

Remove the assembly.

Pump out the fuel and dispose of it properly (pricey!!!)

The ZR-1 tank has a plastic liner, so diligent wiping with many shop towels will remove enough rust to fill a coffee can or more, all from the frame of the sender / pump assembly.

Remove the fuel Filter.

Flush the tank to filter line thoroughly.

Flush the filter to fuel rail line.

Install new filter.

Install complete new sender/ pump assembly.

Now, if it just had new injectors installed; Remove them; Send them to FIC for cleaning and testing.

Put everything back together.

Fill with fresh fuel.

Good to now start.

To the OP.
A 300 mile car in the twenties, even if it needs up to $5,000.00 in maintenance or repairs is a SPECTACULAR DEAL!

The problems are simple to correct, so do not let the fear of the unknown cause you to fail to understand the true value of that car! With all of the corrective measures taken, and given it's as-new condition, that is an NCRS / Bloomington Dream Car that I would net sell for less than $37,000.00 once the work is done and that kind of buyer is found.

Our shop would easily correct it's ailments, yes, even the dreaded airbag light. It's a shame that in your case we are closer to the opposite ocean.

Someone will step up and buy that car.

Good Luck, but I suggest once again, not to waste too much time.


Marty

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

If the fuel pump (s) sender assembly has not been replaced BEFORE doing ANYTHING else on a low mile, long stored ZR-1, then that would be a VERY big no-no.

I will try to get pictures of the last dozen or more fuel pump assemblies that have been removed from low mile ZR-1's at our dealership.
All are nothing but rust flakes held together by the fuel tubes.
Each one we do seems worse than the one before it.
I will soon do the assembly in my car just because of the horrific messes that we have encountered in others.

Is is not specific to ZR-1's. Most all C-4's by now should have had the unit replaced. It is one of the most common repairs we make on C-4's, having done hundreds of them.

Remove the assembly.

Pump out the fuel and dispose of it properly (pricey!!!)

The ZR-1 tank has a plastic liner, so diligent wiping with many shop towels will remove enough rust to fill a coffee can or more, all from the frame of the sender / pump assembly.

Remove the fuel Filter.

Flush the tank to filter line thoroughly.

Flush the filter to fuel rail line.

Install new filter.

Install complete new sender/ pump assembly.

Now, if it just had new injectors installed; Remove them; Send them to FIC for cleaning and testing.

Put everything back together.

Fill with fresh fuel.

Good to now start.

To the OP.
A 300 mile car in the twenties, even if it needs up to $5,000.00 in maintenance or repairs is a SPECTACULAR DEAL!

The problems are simple to correct, so do not let the fear of the unknown cause you to fail to understand the true value of that car! With all of the corrective measures taken, and given it's as-new condition, that is an NCRS / Bloomington Dream Car that I would net sell for less than $37,000.00 once the work is done and that kind of buyer is found.

Our shop would easily correct it's ailments, yes, even the dreaded airbag light. It's a shame that in your case we are closer to the opposite ocean.

Someone will step up and buy that car.

Good Luck, but I suggest once again, not to waste too much time.


Marty

Excellent post, Marty.

Here in the "People's Republic of Illinois", except for scattered racing fuel outlets, E10 is "the order of the day".
So, (wondering out loud) how much of that rusting is due to the ethanol? (Retorically speaking)

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Excellent post, Marty.

Here in the "People's Republic of Illinois", except for scattered racing fuel outlets, E10 is "the order of the day".
So, (wondering out loud) how much of that rusting is due to the ethanol? (Retorically speaking)

Ethanol and rust in gas tanks

Pure gasoline will not absorb water but Ethanol will absorb water

[Z51JEFF]

I remember this car from a few years ago,it had a twin that has less miles than this one. Honestly can’t understand how it passed emissions when the thing won’t run,seems a little odd.

[Hog]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Excellent post, Marty.

Here in the "People's Republic of Illinois", except for scattered racing fuel outlets, E10 is "the order of the day".
So, (wondering out loud) how much of that rusting is due to the ethanol? (Retorically speaking)

If this car just had gas from 1990 in the tank, it shouldn't have had any Ethanol in it. But thast not likely the case.
The big problems with Ethanol come when a vehicle/device, has been run for some time, then all of a sudden it gets a dose of Ethanol fuel.
Ethanol is hygroscopic(attracts and absorbs water) while gasoline is hydrophobic(repels water-although the following study shows that water can still be absorbed into E-0 or 100% gasoline. And that the E-10(10% Ethanol gasoline-which was advertised as E-10, but actually measured out at E8.3-E8.8 across 3 confirmatory tests) can absorb water at the rate of about 3 tsp/gallon. There are products that can help.
https://cropwatch.unl.edu/documents/...2009052014.pdf


So basically if I had a vehicle with 100,000 miles on it and filled up the tank with E-85(85% Ethanol) if there was any water in that tank, it probably wont be there for long.






Whenever GM went to the newer injectors in the LT5 is when
for the 1990 LT5 Ac/Delco is now making a new injector under their "Professional" series of products.
1990, 1991 and 1992
p/n 19239663 Delco p/n 2173407 if for a Primary US$58.79
p/n 19239662 Delco p/n 2173406 Secondary US$63.79
These new Professional series injectors are also listed for the 4.5 liter Cadillac Allante engine.


then for 1993-1995 only the OEM injectors are listed, GM p/n 17109952 Ac/Delco p/n 217280 and Rock Auto only has 1 available.

Rock Auto also has the dual pump sending unit for the 1990-1995 LT5 cars under "ACDelco Fuel Tank Sending Units 19180770" for US$278.79 and Summit Racing also has them for US$370.97. Amazon for US$299







The 1993 and up ZR-1s should be fine for E10 usage.


If this car does have a fuel contamination issue, the fuel filter will show that, but it probably has been changed. It would be cool to cut the original open and check out the filter media.

[cruban]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

To the OP.
A 300 mile car in the twenties, even if it needs up to $5,000.00 in maintenance or repairs is a SPECTACULAR DEAL!

The problems are simple to correct, so do not let the fear of the unknown cause you to fail to understand the true value of that car! With all of the corrective measures taken, and given it's as-new condition, that is an NCRS / Bloomington Dream Car that I would net sell for less than $37,000.00 once the work is done and that kind of buyer is found.

Our shop would easily correct it's ailments, yes, even the dreaded airbag light. It's a shame that in your case we are closer to the opposite ocean.

Someone will step up and buy that car.

Good Luck, but I suggest once again, not to waste too much time.


Marty

Also keep in mind that this car "Has" to pass emissions in order to be registered and titled in CA, then there is the 8.5% sales tax (depending on where you are at) and licensing fees. Also, any vehicle under 7500 miles is considered new in CA, so there is that hassle to deal with (the dealer may mitigate). So he's easily another 3500.00 in just that, then the repair costs up front to get it ready. So this car just went from 30k to 38,500 (more or less). The OP said this was an investment, so given any real investment you would do to make at least 20% so now we're at about 45k resale minimum to be worth it. While you have the car you have insurance and storage costs and normal maintenance, etc as well while you wait on the resale value to go up (cost???). I am certain the Marty could sell this at his dealership for that, but will the OP have the same luck.....

That's the real decision here.

Everyone has an opinion, the only right one is yours....

[lfalzarano]

Buying a Classic Car Is Almost Never a Good Investment. Classic cars are beautiful, fun, and super cool. They're also really bad investments unless you're way into the hobby aspect of it. ... According to Kyle Stock at Bloomberg Business, there's rarely any money to gain in the vintage car game.

Buy it if you want to drive a legend and enjoy what you can buy!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by lfalzarano

Buying a Classic Car Is Almost Never a Good Investment. Classic cars are beautiful, fun, and super cool. They're also really bad investments unless you're way into the hobby aspect of it. ... According to Kyle Stock at Bloomberg Business, there's rarely any money to gain in the vintage car game.

Buy it if you want to drive a legend and enjoy what you can buy!


Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

I used to provide folks investments when I was a banker and a stock broker.
I now provide dream cars whose ROI is measured in MOS (Miles Of Smiles),
and how great they make you feel.
The car we are discussing certainly fits that description and would be well bought and poised for modest appreciation while delivering maximum MOS.
Somebody who feels the same way is going to ride in and pull out their checkbook.
Oh, and I have helped quite a few friends sell mid year cars that they have owned and ENJOYED for quite some time, and make a VERY GOOD ROI. My bet is Kyle may not know a 427 435 from a phone booth. If he did, he would not make such a foolish generalization.
Happy New Year to all!!!
( and the way the market is going, take out some of those returns and live a little ) Your last suit has no pockets, and I never saw an armored car following a hearse!

Marty

[cruban]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

I used to provide folks investments when I was a banker and a stock broker.
I now provide dream cars whose ROI is measured in MOS (Miles Of Smiles),
and how great they make you feel.
The car we are discussing certainly fits that description and would be well bought and poised for modest appreciation while delivering maximum MOS.
Somebody who feels the same way is going to ride in and pull out their checkbook.
Oh, and I have helped quite a few friends sell mid year cars that they have owned and ENJOYED for quite some time, and make a VERY GOOD ROI. My bet is Kyle may not know a 427 435 from a phone booth. If he did, he would not make such a foolish generalization.
Happy New Year to all!!!
( and the way the market is going, take out some of those returns and live a little ) Your last suit has no pockets, and I never saw an armored car following a hearse!

Marty

So true they made a song.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U13_pP7p52E

[Saoirse32]

Need Help:

I’ll attach the photos, but I’m trying to decipher some of the numbers taken in these photos from my PPI on the potential vehicle I’m currently in negotiations for a possible purchase. Can you guys explain these to me? I did look on the registry but looks like maybe the numbers don’t match up (although, I’m sure I’m just reading it incorrectly). Coming from the Porsche world, marching numbers are easy for me to figure out since I have the experience and books to do so. I’ve also attached the window sticker for reference and noted that it was delivered to GM’s main office, not a particular dealership (don’t know what that means either). Thanks in advance (again). Please forgive my rookie ***!!!









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk