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#31 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,706
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IMHO they need to be
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#32 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,347
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I'm not sure where in Houston to take them...or what it would cost. My budget is getting a little thin. StainlessWorks claims theirs don't need to be due to the type of steel they use.
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#33 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,347
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stuck again...how am I supposed to remove the EGR tub from the manifold? Stainless Works instructions mention to take care of the V clamp...but I don't know what that is.
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#34 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lone Pine, CA
Posts: 591
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no biggie .i dont have coated headers on either of my cars and haven't had a problem in 8 years . you might just want to watch how you route the o2 sensor wires . the o2 sensor unscrews .i used a flair wrench .they do make a special socket to take them out . you can score one of those if you like at your nearest auto parts store
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#35 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,347
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well after I repaired the damaged knock sensor plug and figured out how to get to all the bolts and remove the v clamp from the egg tube the old manifold are OFF!!! Whoo Hooo. Enough for this weekend. I will now order some gaskets rather than get a huge mess going with the rtv and see about a new V clamp...however mine is straight...I will just need a tool to squeeze it back on.
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#36 |
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 396
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Did you decide to keep the AIR crap?
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#37 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,347
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#38 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lone Pine, CA
Posts: 591
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you are going to love the way it will make power in the upper ranges compared to the stk manifolds.no more cork.lol
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#39 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Spring TX
Posts: 1,347
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Keeping the AIR is certainly a bad decision at this point. The AIR tubes SW puts on them look great at first until you try to get the air system back on the car. The pipe that connects to the bottom of the car on the passenger side of the oil pan that routes up and over the exhaust manifold to the header air tubes basically will not go on. I have leaned on it trying to bend the dang thing and succeeded. It is on for now but only barely into the rubber fittings, enough for the clamp. I can't get the rubber T square at the top so it is being stretched and this pipe rests on the headers. I have a feeling it will make a terrible rattle once the engine is started.
Is there a flex tube of sorts I could go buy that could be cut down and shaped to fit better. It would have to be made from aluminum. Other than that, is there some kind of material I could wrap it with to prevent the noise I think I am about to get? I have also been able to get every bolt one except for one, and it is because the flange hole does not line up wit the hole in the head. I have no idea why since 14 other bolts went in easily. The guide pins look like they screw in, is this true? Could I remove them and insert bolts? |
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#40 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lone Pine, CA
Posts: 591
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its really not mandatory to have all the bolts in when you put headers on . there was a bolt on each side of my stainless works i could not get in for the same reason. and mine havent leaked in 3 years. too bad the stainless works guys didnt care more about the product they put out . i talked with corey last week and he is gearing up to have headers done and on hand in the near future for those that want a good quality header
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