New Brakes....No Stopping Power....help please

[Paul Workman]

Speaking of breaking in brakes, etc, here is some info worth a read. The break-in discussion I find to be valuable - used successfully on 3 different cars since reading this, and it seems to work quite well. Just sayin.



P.

[| 1990 ZR-1 |]

Originally Posted by POWERBRAKEBOB

The booster has one steel rod pushing against another, It can't collapse inside. You said new rotors, not remachined? Coarse cut on a remachined rotor will not stop. the surface looks like a phonograph record, and only rubs on the high spots. No good. Also check for any interference between the pad and the caliper piston boot. ANYTHING jacking the piston away from the pad will push the piston in. Loose wheel bearing will cause th erotor to sit at an angle pushing in th epistons. Oher than that, open the bleeders one at a time and let it gravity bleed, with the caps OFF.
We also build a ZR-1 style DUAL Diaphragm booster to fit non ZR-1 vettes. The stopping power is incredible.

The rotors are brand new Centric Premium rotors. They have a what looks like fine lines in a dimond patern on the surface of the rotor. I went through the proper bedding procdure of the pads when I first installed them, and put about 150 miles since, but I can still see that dimond patern. I'm guessing it'll take another 100-200 miles to get that smooth surfaces at which point I should have an even better grip.

[mike100]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Once bled properly etc, you will notice gradual improvement with the pad bite. Mine really started working better after I did several 110-115 mph to 20 mph stops. The rotor has a bit of a purple darkish hue, but the crosshatch lines from the machining are almost gone. I have 1000 miles on the brake job now and it will lock up and work the ABS easily.

I used a wagner street pad, so they wouldn't be too rough on the rotors, but even 'soft' pads need a good bed-in.

ON EDIT: (I have the C5 front brake conversion using oem A-Mold wheels)