Header Bolt Battle

[klaptrapper]

PB Blaster is better, IMHO.

Rusty
'90 1572

Originally Posted by flyin ryan

The liquid wrench is always good. Can try some penetrating oil first if you haven't yet, even though 'Uphill' it will find it's way up into the threads a certain amount at least, can't hurt to try if you don't have bottles handy.

[klaptrapper]

Radio Shack sells a spray can which is used to detect cracks in circuit board lands. It is a freezing spray, which sprays a mist that is -60 degrees. If you waste a full can on the bolt, once the old header is removed by grinding off the head. It will shrink the bolt stub , perhaps sufficiently to, along with the bp blaster, etc. you use, to extract the stub, not with a pair of vice grips, but with a new 8 inch pipe wrench. That will either extract the stub, or break it off, as it can exert far more torque than a pair of vice grips. Be sure to get maximum contact with the pipe wrench the full length of the stub.

Just my 2c

Rusty

[rhipsher]

In my proffesional opinion if he couldn't get it off with a socket then theres no way vice grips are gonna work. I'd just grind it flush and leave the stupid thing in there. Its not going to hurt anything. If you use a right angle drill your probably not going to have room and trying to keep it striaght while your drilling it will be damn near impossible. Just take the head off. Take it to a local machine shop and let them do it right. The alternative is making it worse than it already is. "I'M JUST SAYING"! But go ahead and give all of that other voodoo BS a try first. Already tried that freeze out stuff. Its useless especially when the material that's capturing the bolt is softer than the bolt. Freezing it will just cause the aluminum to contract even tighter. Heat is the way to go. But if you use a Map torch you might blow you azz up with oil all around you.

[LGAFF]

There is a good inch sticking out, maybe a stud remover?

Will keep you updated.

[A26B]

I agree with the 8" pipe wrench. No vise grips! If you have to buy one, get the best bang for the buck and buy Rigid brand. The thing I like best about the pipe wrench approach is you may be able to get a small ball peen hammer and tap the end of the bolt while you're holding torque on it with the pipe wrench. Helps alot to break it loose.

While the concept of freezing is good, I don't think this is the right application. Steel has a thermal coefficient of expansion of 0.000006in/in. If you achievedperfect thermal transfer through the bolt only (which you won't) you would shrink the bolt only about 0.0004", not enough to accomplish anything. Aluminum on the other hand has a much greater coefficient, but the head is such a large heat sink, its going to take a lot of heat and quickly to no heat the bolt too!! Sorry, I don't see heating or cooling as a very viable option here.

I'll wager you will get it out with the wrench. just don't try to back it out all at one to prevent galling the threads. Work it both directions while trying to loosen & spray some of the recommended products like Liquid Wrench on it while you're working it and don't get in a hurry.

FWIW, I used to own an oilfield job type machine shop & all we did was fix broken stuff & make replacement parts. Every machine tool in the place was manual. Every job was a new setup.

Go easy & good luck...

[LGAFF]

Stud came out with just a regular pliers....nothing else....turned easily.