03-01-2010 | #31 | |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mauriceville, Texas
Posts: 179
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
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I'm not going to bash them to bad, cause my younger brother just started working for 'em last week. When he used to work for Auto Zone, I got his employee discount for everything I wanted. I'm hoping Advanced has the same employee discount program.
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Clint aka billybaloneey '94 - C4 ZR-1 #445 - Black/Black '05 - C6 silver/black 6sp '85 - C4 white/graphite (almost done) automatic '78 - C3 silver/black (a work in progress) automatic |
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03-01-2010 | #32 |
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
I just got some of my order from RockAuto.com, the slave cylinder arrived. Man now I remember why I spent so much cash the last time ordering from my used to be favorite chevy online store. The Delco stuff is DOM type and it now appears that the wagoner & some others are cast. I don't know that the cast slave will bolt up because the mounting flange is so thick vs the DOM flange.
On a more positive note, the Wagoner brand is owned by Federal Mogul! I didn't know that. I may attempt to take this slave apart to see if it's internal parts are like the ones from the last F/M cast slave I got yrs ago. If so then the micro-ridges are a thing of the past on the piston seal....that is at least one less thing to wear out! I still think my issue's root is in the master's piston seal being worn out because of what Bill told me about with regards to the arched travel caused by the spacer not being at the optimal angle. If I actually get the slave apart I will post up what I discover. I just don't know for sure that I will get to it today.
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
03-01-2010 | #33 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,797
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
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WOW .......yes....let us know if the clutch parts fit and if you take them apart....what you find |
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03-01-2010 | #34 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,797
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
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Thepartsladi ships very fast Last edited by Dynomite; 03-01-2010 at 12:17 PM. |
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03-01-2010 | #35 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,079
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
Theres nothing wrong with this place but their prices are pretty steep so Id look elsewhere before Id call them for something.
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03-01-2010 | #36 |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,797
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
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03-01-2010 | #37 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,079
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
I meant to say I look at other sources before I checkout thepartsladi.O.K. been digging for parts and have come up with the new cast body parts are the good parts but the DOM are the questionable parts.The DOM parts are the OEM parts and might not even be out there anymore.
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03-01-2010 | #38 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,797
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
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Are you saying you have it figured out and that the new cast parts are good to go? Was that the Slave only or the master and Slave? Great to know keep us posted One more question for ya.......do you use DOT 4 brake fluid? What do you use for Clutch fluid? |
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03-01-2010 | #39 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,079
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
According to Bill B both cast parts are the better of the parts out there and the Wagner parts for the brand.Now with the thicker mounting area with the cast parts longer bolts need to be takin into account.I found a place in town that has the OEM AC Delco parts,just not quite ready to start this job right now,Ill decide which brand when the time comes.The brake fluid can be DOT-3 or DOT-4.My idea for the best and least cramped for the job is to remove fender panel,battery,ECM and bracket and maybe the skirt panel.I dont have alot of room in my garage so I need to make this as easy as possible.As far as the bench bleeding of the master-slave cylinders Bill told me to bench bled the slave cylinder,install,install the master cylinder,fill will fluid and just put enough pressure on the pedal to push it down maybe 1/2 inch.Now Im still not too clear on the amount of fluid in the reservoir,if its full and the slave is full when the pedal is completely depressed that fluid needs to go somewhere,dont want a brake fluid nightmare.I will play this part by ear,maybe 1/4 inch of fluid in the reservoir.This is my plan.
Last edited by Z51JEFF; 03-01-2010 at 09:09 PM. |
03-02-2010 | #40 |
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
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Re: Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............
Hey Jeff, thanks for the insight from Bill.
I took my cast slave from wagoner apart last night and it sure is a thing of beauty updated piston seal and the spring ends are dressed nicely, and NO Debris floating around in the bore! The only issue is the mounting flange is thicker and I'm not sure the OE studs will show enough threads thru this thicker flange? I also wish I could say that I'll know this weekend, or sometime this week when I get under there to change out the slave...but I can't because this will have to wait for good weather so I can work outside. My guess would be the same as it was back in 05, the flange is too thick for the OE studs to let the nuts catch many threads. I forgot this Jeff, you will not need to remove anything beyond the gill panel and the battery. You can dismount the ECM and flip it over to the wiper area if you like, I never do that because it's not in the way once the battery is out. The ECM bracket and the rear wheel house liner are also not factors in this r&r. I hear you about no space in which to work and spread things out. The only thing that I found that really helps is a universal joint, various extension lengths or my favorite weapon....a 13mm socket with a u-joint built into it! Once the battery is out you can get a good shot at the bolts on the M/C no sweat. The stock cats on our early exhaust systems get in the way for the slave r&r. The studs are oriented so that the lower stud is at 5 o'clock and the upper is at 11 o'clock. The upper is bad with the OE cat as I used about 2' worth of extensions to get behind the cat and next to the trans tunnel mid section. That I found gave the straightest shot to get on the top nut. Undo the lines before loosening any of the hold down nuts and bolts. I'm telling you that after it done you will say the worst part of the job was the hush panel and that stupid clip on the pedal! On the bleed out, listen to Bill. Please no full pedal stokes. You don't want to bottom out the pistons in their bores just like when you do brakes. If you had a spare line I'd say to use the old master to charge up the new slave before install, in your case. I saved my 90 line so I use it to charge up both on my bench. If you have a phoenix bleeder tool you can use it to do the bench bleed on both before install. I can mail you mine if you prefer? I only use it for the clutch hydraulics and it has only had GM clutch fluid ran thru it. I have a small stock pile of the GM stuff. I bought it back in the days when brake fluid was not the first choice in the system as a fluid. It is a sweet tool and it will charge up the system from bone dry perfectly as it is a reverse bleed from the slave up to the master. Tom
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1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
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