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#31 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Marietta, GA USA
Posts: 1,160
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I think the answer to this question is 'no'.
I tried running 11" sawbades and 315 tires in front and they stuck out too far and rubbed against the fenders. My solution was to use two 11" A-molds I had that were not the deep stock offset. If you don't already own track wheels and tires, please check this post to see if you are interested in some spares I have and don't need: http://zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26298 |
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#32 |
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 93
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russ -
so you are running the 11" GS wheels up front ? if not, i wonder if they would work with a more narrow tire |
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#33 |
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Tallmadge OH
Posts: 116
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A local guy is running GS A-Molds front and rear on his LT4 Collectors Edition.
He runs 315's rear and 285's front. So yes it can be done. |
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#34 | ||
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: waxhaw, nc
Posts: 93
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I might be interested in these, i'll keep you posted, want to get it to the shop first. Quote:
I assume "sawblades" refer to the stock wheels, right? what are A-molds? (sorry for being dumb) |
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#35 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 190
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I'm going to offer a little different opinion -
I would suggest sticking to the stock front tires until you feel you can overdrive the car's capabilities. I don't expect that will happen for most people in a summer or two or at least a couple sets of tires for the track. This will allow you to just use the rims you have for now, and also help save some $ and maintenance replacing the front wheel bearings. The larger front wheels with their extra grip put too much load on the wheel bearings and won't last. There is no good upgrade available. I'm not even sure there are good options for the stock bearings, you can spend a lot of time searching this issue on the forum and elsewhere. With the suspension, again, I would stick with semi-stock for now and you want to make sure the Bilstein shocks are in good condition (if they haven't been previously rebuilt they are most likely due). Send them out to Delta Vee and they can rebuild them to stock specs, or upgrade the setting to something more suitable to your track use. Call them to discuss. You will need to do this in the fall to have them back in by the spring, so don't put this off. Make sure the rest of the FX3 suspension works as it should including the actuators. The FX3 is a good suspension and works well with the ZR-1. I second the Dewitts radiator suggestion. It's good for track use to help keep the temps down.
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[CENTER][SIZE=4][COLOR=red]1990 ZR-1 Red / Red[/COLOR][/SIZE][/CENTER] Last edited by emmvette; 09-11-2017 at 06:08 PM. |
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#36 | |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: dayton,ohio
Posts: 425
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I would not describe 54mm as normal for the zr1. I meant to say 54 before when I said 56. The 36mm is normal and will stick out quite a bit in the front. So any oem 17X11 zr1 wheels will rub probably at the fender lip and I would not try it. The 54mm don't and fit. They will rub the sway bar in the front and the back inside on the inner fender down by the frame. I would not use them on the street. They are good for the track because I don't turn it that far. Except when I was correcting for a 360, or at least I thought I was. The 1/2 spacer is required to run the 54 in the rear. Here is a picture of the 17x11. Not sure if it is going to work. It has about 2.7 negative camber and helps to bring the top of the wheel inwards. ![]()
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[FONT=Comic Sans MS][COLOR=red]"I wanna go fast!!"[/COLOR][/FONT] [FONT=Comic Sans MS][COLOR=#ff0000]-- Ricky Bobby[/COLOR][/FONT] Last edited by lbszr; 09-11-2017 at 07:41 PM. |
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#37 | |
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: waxhaw, nc
Posts: 93
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as far as rebuilding the shocks, I almost certainly don't have the patience for that. ![]() |
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