LT5 Assembly Project

[LGAFF]

While the rod bolts are 22ftlbs and 80-85 degrees torque angle, I did an unscientific test and came up with 70-72ftlbs

Any thoughts?

(sorry posted in a hurry....corrected, made no sense)

[tomtom72]

I have a question? Would it be having one of those digital T/Q wrenches with Torque angle built in more than just a "look what I have" thing?

It seems to me that quite a few fasteners have an angle in the spec besides just a T/Q number, or am I over studying this?


Tom

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I have a question? Would it be having one of those digital T/Q wrenches with Torque angle built in more than just a "look what I have" thing?

It seems to me that quite a few fasteners have an angle in the spec besides just a T/Q number, or am I over studying this?


Tom

Tom,

I just gotta say I love the Snap On Techangle wrenches and I bought them in 1/2" and 3/8" drive when I was building the LT5. They were totally awesome and a timesaver as well as a reassuring feeling using a tool like that. I don't think they will come in handy from here on out for the torque angle unless I build another motor, but I use the standard torque feature on a regular basis. At one time I thought I would sell them after I build the motor, but I'm keeping them for sure.

Craig

[LGAFF]

It took 3 cheapass torque angle meters to get the rods done, so yep. Would be worth it. Someone have a link?

[tomtom72]

Okay, now I don't feel so lost! Thanks guys!

Lee, I look over at e-bay from time to time. I use the "new" vs the "used" and I've been looking at mainly two brands. Obviously snap-on and K-D ( because I've used their torque wrenches when I assembled old sbc's ); just as a fwiw it seems that those two have the same +/- accuracy vs other brands.


Tom

Craig, thank you. I always wondered about how helpful they'd be on our stuff!

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

It took 3 cheapass torque angle meters to get the rods done, so yep. Would be worth it. Someone have a link?

Here you go Lee. I bought mine on Ebay used for about 1/2 price, but you have to make sure you get it from some reputable sellers. I did not get mine calibrated and should have. I forgot how much it cost to get them calibrated by Snap On and it takes about several weeks turn around from Hawaii; I want to say it was over $100 each.

1/2" drive =

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....store&tool=all


3/8" drive =

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....group_ID=19918

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Okay, now I don't feel so lost! Thanks guys!

Lee, I look over at e-bay from time to time. I use the "new" vs the "used" and I've been looking at mainly two brands. Obviously snap-on and K-D ( because I've used their torque wrenches when I assembled old sbc's ); just as a fwiw it seems that those two have the same +/- accuracy vs other brands.


Tom

Craig, thank you. I always wondered about how helpful they'd be on our stuff!

Tom,

I am a novice and was just paranoid so thought I would screw up with using other method and the thought of snaping something went through my mind.

Craig

[LGAFF]

Updated: in installing the oil pump, you first must remove the seal. The book for the 90 service manual states use alignment tool38383, which I do not have. Then I noticed that tool J-38135 has one end for pump alignment and one for seal install.....photo below. 38135 fits tightly on the crank and aligns the pump, I honestly and not sure this is absolutely needed as when I messed around with and old pump with a seal in it and with the tool, there was little variance if any.




I used Jerrys oil pump o-ring packet...the large thick gasket goes on the crank; see photo



The other 3 rings go on the back of the pump, the smaller ones kid of lock in the larger single one I put a small small dab of gasket tack to hold in in place:




With the pump in place and aligned



....its time for the pump seal.

Oil Pump Seal: I was not going to replace the graphite oil pump seal, then I inspected the seal and it was pitted and the edge of the graphite was chipped. So I bought a new one.....Jerry I think is the only one carrying the OEM: http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...&products_id=2

The graphite seal floats in the seal frame.....install is easy and used my kent moore tools



If you don't have the kent moore tool, jerry has instructions on his site on how to use a pice of PCV: http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=443


I also checked out my oil pump internals...look fine and pump itself is very simple...

[HAWAIIZR-1]

You're doing a great job on this Lee and good decision on the seal to replace it. I can attest to Jerry's info about the alternate method with the PCV pipe as I did not have the Kent Moore tool and it was a lifesaver. Thanks for all your documentation.

[LGAFF]

The pump must be in place to put the primary chain sprocket....although the primary sproket is composed of several pieces, mine was assembled, so it was a matter of coating 3 bolts with loctite 262 and then torquing to 20lbs....