FIX ILEAN (she leans too much)

[WVZR-1]

I believe if I thought I had a "lean" I'd use the chassis trim dimensions in FSM section 3 as a guide and do my measurements based on those reference points. I'd do it this way if I felt I had a "straight & level" floor. The dimensions for J & K depending on year are going to be 180mm + to 190mm +. I'd cut a gage using maybe 2" PVC conduit 175mm long and then measure from the rocker to the gage and add that for a dimension. I believe it easier to measure from the rocker to the gage vs. trying to measure to the floor. You could use a metric ruler maybe 150mm long. If you measure 9mm to the gage then you would have a 184mm dimension.

To do Z and D in the FSM I believe I'd start with a 40mm gage and measure again to the gage. For Z & D I'd use the front control arm bolt and in the rear the camber bolt centers.

Use the FSM dimensions only as a guide, make sure the tire pressures are equal and if you wanted to get real testy put a live body or weight in the drivers seat.

I have never measured a C4 this way but I've done others in this fashion. Don't be concerned with matching the FSM dimensions, your just trying to establish the status of the chassis.

With so many different wheel/tire combinations dimensions will vary widely but you would like equal/similar side to side relationship at all points.

If these dimensions are far from equal/similar then you've got potential issues and maybe it would be wise to hang some gages to confirm some dimensions in the FSM using section 10-3.

If you've a really lowered car adjust the height of the PVC gages.

Originally Posted by BigIke

Anyone know how long the stock bolts are? If the 10" will work I'll go back tomorrow and buy it.

Rear spring bolts are 192.5mm long on '90 MY cars and for '91+ cars I believe they're 225mm long. I'm quite sure that's an "under head dimension". The bolts are M14 X 2.0. Factory bolts should have likely 30mm of thread.

"BATCHMAN" (Jeff) is correct when mentioning that tampering with right rear should affect left front, left rear would affect right front.

[We Gone]

Stock bolts 9 and 1/4 overall and 8 and 1/2 to the cotter key hole.

[BigIke]

What I didn't do was measure right vs left (post castle nut adjustment), however, I did measure right side before/after lowering the castle nut and saw a visible and measurable difference. There wasn't a visual difference on the left (low) side...

I'll got back to Fastenall tomorrow and get the 10" bolt, maybe an 11" also and play with it. If i see any issues while i'm under there i'll address them properly.

Thanks y'all

[Vette Guy]

Before you go too far, try isolating the front and rear suspensions.... i.e., jack up the front equally and see if the lean to one side remains..... or jack up the rear from the diff and see if your problem is in the front.

"HIZNHRZ" had this same problem for a long time, he even switched the spring around and finally discovered that the rear lean was a front suspension problem.

Regards,
Mark

[BigIke]

I hear that!

The bolt should show me, but i did get a result moving the right rear castle nut, and seeing the right front lower from 27" to 26.5625 and the rear went from 28.625 to 28.375.

Front diff - .4375
Rear diff - .248

Now this was all takin at the same spot on the fender well, not quite scientific but a result none the less.

Lowering the rear caused the front to drop more that the rear. BOLT TOMORROW

When i grow up i want my junk to look like USAZR1's!

PS - Mark LOVE THE HEART OF THE BEAST! Just posted a pic about it on the C4 Facebook page...

[Vette Guy]

I'm sure you'll have it squared up soon! As for the Heart of the Beast, it's our membership's quarterly publication... I think you'd enjoy it!

Here's a peak at October's cover.....

[batchman]

Given the "X" nature of height/weight you should probably check your front spring for damage. That could be the root cause. Best done on a drive-on lift or ramps - you need to see what's going on with the suspension loaded.

Good luck,
- Jeff

[Karl]

Originally Posted by USAZR1

Our 94 was a little higher on the right front before I installed the VB&P adjustable spring. With its threaded adjusters on each side,ride height on either side is easy to change & fine-tune. I also installed a pair of 11" long 14mm rear spring bolts that I purchased at my local Fastenal store,for $24/pair.
Presently have the front ride height at 26 1/2" and the rear at 27".

How do you like the VB&p front adjustable spring? Do you have to remove the wheels to adjust the front?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks!

[USAZR1]

Originally Posted by Karl

How do you like the VB&p front adjustable spring? Do you have to remove the wheels to adjust the front?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks!

I haven't driven the car very many miles since its installation but so far,I really like it. The spring rate is 950lbs so the front end feels firm and tight.
Adjusting ride height is easy,just take the load off the spring on each side,and turn the threaded rubber bumper/adjuster by hand. VB&P offers three adjuster options: short,medium,or long. I went with the medium length and it seems to be the right choice. There is approximately 2 1/2" of adjustment available either up or down and ours are close to the middle of the range.
Taking the wheels off for adjustment isn't necessary. I didn't do so.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by USAZR1

I haven't driven the car very many miles since its installation but so far,I really like it. The spring rate is 950lbs so the front end feels firm and tight.
Adjusting ride height is easy,just take the load off the spring on each side,and turn the threaded rubber bumper/adjuster by hand. VB&P offers three adjuster options: short,medium,or long. I went with the medium length and it seems to be the right choice. There is approximately 2 1/2" of adjustment available either up or down and ours are close to the middle of the range.
Taking the wheels off for adjustment isn't necessary. I didn't do so.

Would you happen to know the factory spring rate?