Wheel Question Again... the saga continues

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by A26B

I agree with this possibility..... driveshaft may have been removed and re-installed out of phase, meaning it was not installed in the same position on the differential yoke just as it was removed. This has happened before.

May also be a worn front yoke or worn tail bearing/bushing allowing the yoke to oscillate. Over-tightened front C-beam bolts can cause the bearing/bushing to incur accelerated wear.

Suggest:
1. Check with the previous owner to see if the driveshaft has been removed, or
2. Use 2 post lift, in neutral, turn the tires & check driveshaft run-out near both front & rear u-joints and in the middle.
3. check for excessive movement of front yoke. If noted, will require removal to determine if yoke, bearing/bushing or both are a fault. If the yoke is to be replaced, contact Bill Boudreau at www.ZFDoc.com. The correct Spicer yoke can be difficult to find. Bill can tell you the difference from a commonly available yoke which is not quite right.




None of the above checks will be difficult or expensive and may help to eliminate a distinct possibility. Looks like you have been through the wheel/tire possibility pretty thoroughly.

Good luck.

That's way more effort than doing a drive and swap wheels and tires. If the swap of wheels and tires makes it go away all is done!

I thought I was the first to mention the "service slip-yokes" supplied by most aren't any better than a 100k used one. I've a slip-yoke that's been used many times for correct fixes that only requires the use of a 1330/1310 conversion joint and the removal of 30mm from the end. It's got the correct major/minor spline dimensions. Still pretty readily available.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

........I thought I was the first to mention the "service slip-yokes" supplied by most aren't any better than a 100k used one. I've a slip-yoke that's been used many times for correct fixes that only requires the use of a 1330/1310 conversion joint and the removal of 30mm from the end. It's got the correct major/minor spline dimensions. Still pretty readily available.

You may have been the first. I just ran across this statement from Bill and posted it as a reference to yokes. You are always an outstanding reference source!

[chriskinzel]

On cheap option is to get a friend to drive behind, to the left and right side while you drive at the bad speed. Have him (or her) look at your wheels. Look for bent rims, or tire bouncing. Anything out of the normal. This is basically free and maybe you might find something. Good luck.

Chris

[tonywy]

I had a similar issue with my 90. Went nuts trying to figure it out. Changed everything you could think of, including two sets of wheels, two sets of tires ,a steering rack. Turns out it was a right front shock that would not compress. It would expand but would only compress to its nominal ride height. Low mile car, so it probably stuck in that position. Two new front shocks on, problem solved.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by tonywy

I had a similar issue with my 90. Went nuts trying to figure it out. Changed everything you could think of, including two sets of wheels, two sets of tires ,a steering rack. Turns out it was a right front shock that would not compress. It would expand but would only compress to its nominal ride height. Low mile car, so it probably stuck in that position. Two new front shocks on, problem solved.

Originally Posted by chriskinzel

On cheap option is to get a friend to drive behind, to the left and right side while you drive at the bad speed. Have him (or her) look at your wheels. Look for bent rims, or tire bouncing. Anything out of the normal. This is basically free and maybe you might find something. Good luck.

Chris

The observation while driving mentioned by Chris could likely be used to determine if the problem is similar to that noted by "tonywy" and suspension related BUT in your earlier thread and in maybe an email conversation I mention an "on car" spin balance attempt and that I believe would still be the "tell all" if it's related to tire/wheel.

I like the observation while driving and I often see cars on the highway that I can't image how they tolerate it inside the car while watching wheel/tire reaction to the pavement.

I believe you need to do the observations and let someone else do the driving. You just pick the speeds, I'd think 70 MPH should show all. Good pavement a necessity.

[Racinfan83]

Yeah that I think I will do if this doesn't fix it. Plenty of freeways around here I could do that on.
I was going on an hour roadtrip today to a show - but there is a giant green/orange/red blob on the weather radar moving across the state. SO it will sit in the garage til tomorrow.

[batchman]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

Pulled on the rears at 12/6 and 3/9. There is maybe 1/16" movement in both at the outer edge. Good, bad, can be tightened with the nut???

That much movement indicates the hubs should be changed. It is possible that re-torquing the axle nut (remove wheel, remove cotter pin and castle nut, torque to 168 ft/lbs) but the play will come back.

I have not found hub play to lead to a vibe - but it does lead to failure. A new record for me this weekend, about 12 and 1/2 miles. 3rd run in my national event.

Sigh,
- Jeff