Alternator going bad?

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

I might have my OE Alternator I replaced in 2010, I am debating on rebuilding it

If, when you measure the V at idle and if you determine that the alternator is the "obvious" issue, here is a link for rebuilding our specific alternator. I did this rebuild and link about 12yrs ago. It is
very doable.

120amp Alternator Re-build

I really hope is something easier.
The absolute worst thing that could happen to you now is that the problem is intermittent and all works fine now only to fail on a road trip
like it did for me

[-=Jeff=-]

so the threads on my old alternator are boogered up.. Along with the front bearing being trashed..

I think what I may do is pull the alternator off and inspect it after doing other checks.

Once off I may just rebuild it, I found the Regulator, Rectifier and Stator that will boost it to 140 Amp, which I had in my 89 without issues.

I have found that even Remanufactured ones don't last..

just need to order the parts

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

so the threads on my old alternator are boogered up.. Along with the front bearing being trashed..

I think what I may do is pull the alternator off and inspect it after doing other checks.

Once off I may just rebuild it, I found the Regulator, Rectifier and Stator that will boost it to 140 Amp, which I had in my 89 without issues.

I have found that even Remanufactured ones don't last..

just need to order the parts

Great idea on the 140amp setup. I'd suggest two things.
1. Test the new bearing by hand before assembling it on. It should roll freely and pay attention to the feel when you roll it. ANY vibration when rolling it slowwwwwly is susptect. Sometime back many kits were shipped with a faulty rear bearing.
2. Test the completed assembly at O'riely's or such place BEFORE putting it back in the car.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by scottfab

Great idea on the 140amp setup. I'd suggest two things.
1. Test the new bearing by hand before assembling it on. It should roll freely and pay attention to the feel when you roll it. ANY vibration when rolling it slowwwwwly is susptect. Sometime back many kits were shipped with a faulty rear bearing.
2. Test the completed assembly at O'riely's or such place BEFORE putting it back in the car.

Thanks for the tips.. I will probably rebuild the one on the car, since the OEM one I have will need a new rotor..

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Thanks for the tips.. I will probably rebuild the one on the car, since the OEM one I have will need a new rotor..

You might try a JY 140 AMP for a build of your own! You guys have a quite good contact I thought pretty local. '93+ had a 140 AMP option for the LT1 - KG9. An OE core I'd think real cheap. Later trucks also if there's a local JY to help you. Your concern is just the internals. Which threads are messed up on your OE?

[Tony Davila]

Rebuild your factory alternator if you can and DO NOT loose the original pulley.

The factory pulley is larger than what you will get on a exchange alternator from any auto part stores.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

You might try a JY 140 AMP for a build of your own! You guys have a quite good contact I thought pretty local. '93+ had a 140 AMP option for the LT1 - KG9. An OE core I'd think real cheap. Later trucks also if there's a local JY to help you. Your concern is just the internals. Which threads are messed up on your OE?

Rotor the end where the pulley goes... then need to get the roto off that side of the case as that bearing is toast

Originally Posted by Tony Davila

Rebuild your factory alternator if you can and DO NOT loose the original pulley.

The factory pulley is larger than what you will get on a exchange alternator from any auto part stores.

Yep, I noticed that, what is the down side of running the smaller pulley? I know it is a bit easier to swap the belt

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

....snip...
Yep, I noticed that, what is the down side of running the smaller pulley? I know it is a bit easier to swap the belt

Our redline is higher that standard GM engines.
That kind of spin up speed on a tiny pulley is wasting HP and ages components (bearing) faster.
Some even go so far as to run oversize pulleys to reduce HP leaching.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

You might try a JY 140 AMP for a build of your own! You guys have a quite good contact I thought pretty local. '93+ had a 140 AMP option for the LT1 - KG9. An OE core I'd think real cheap. Later trucks also if there's a local JY to help you. Your concern is just the internals. Which threads are messed up on your OE?

There are 2 different styles for the CS-144.. the Lt1 is the later style case and will not fit (I tried)

I am going to buy the 140A parts for my Alternator and rebuild it..

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

There are 2 different styles for the CS-144.. the Lt1 is the later style case and will not fit (I tried)

I am going to buy the 140A parts for my Alternator and rebuild it..

I understand the different CS-144's BUT you're just needing the 140A internals actually only the stator I believe will do because all of the service rotors are the same. Were the originals? I don't think so but I've never researched it much. I believe it would be good to have both the 140A rotor and stator.