Thermostat question

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by A26B

I carry the Standt, my personal choice.
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=592

Gates makes one that appears to be correct, but I have not had it in my hand to confirm. Beware of all other brands, Failsafe, Duralast , etc.

Hi, Jerry,

I ordered a Standt 180 from Advanced Auto. I will check visually one it arrives. Do you think it's a good idea to drill a couple of 1/8" holes?

[A26B]

I ordered 2 from Advance Auto, 1 was correct, the other was incorrect in a correct box.. They tried to reorder & found none in stock anywhere.. Good luck!

Re drilling holes: I drilled 3 holes & it made a big enough difference that I still have the new Ron Woods 160F stat in the drawer. It gets hot in Oklahoma.

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Hi, Jerry,

I ordered a Standt 180 from Advanced Auto. I will check visually one it arrives. Do you think it's a good idea to drill a couple of 1/8" holes?

I thought about doing a 160 Randy Woods thermostat, but ended up asking Pete to drill holes in my stock unit. Also installed a Ron Davis Radiator.

Wow it runs "cooler"!!!!!



David

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

I thought about doing a 160 Randy Woods thermostat, but ended up asking Pete to drill holes in my stock unit. Also installed a Ron Davis Radiator.

Wow it runs "cooler"!!!!!



David

Hey,

Runs cooler at all times? How is it crawling in 90 plus day w/ ac on?

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Hey,

Runs cooler at all times? How is it crawling in 90 plus day w/ ac on?

When "crawling" I don't test it, I turn the AC off.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

When "crawling" I don't test it, I turn the AC off.

Woops! I forgot - it's a ninja turtle.

[secondchance]

I checked the part number on the 180 degree thermostat and per Stant website confirmed that it was for vin code "J".
Drained the coolant and with some reluctance removed three bolts (2 for housing and one to bracket). Reluctant because the last time I removed these bolts I ended up stripping threads (corrosion caused by different metal and coolant?) and had to have the car towed to a local Midas. They had it helicoiled and assembled so there was no way for me to know how well it was done.
Housing bolts came out easy enough but the bolt to the bracket was tough. May have stripped this one since it seemed to keep turning while being reassembled.
Any way, I did drill 4 x 3/32" holes before the install, filled w/ anti-freeze and topped off w/ distilled water.
I noticed coolant recovery bottle had greenish crustation. So, I took it off the car and tried to get the crud off w/ an end of a wooden cooking utencil but there was no way to clean upper inside. So, I went ahead and ordered a new one from Corvette Central.
Crusing into work it was about 78 degrees and water temp was between 192 to 203 depending on the traffic and rpm. Real test will be going home this afternoon since we are expecting 95 degrees or so and traffic for sure.
I figure in traffic with AC on she will probably climb up to 225 plus since the limiting factor I think is the air movement through the rad and AC condenser. Therefore, lower temp thermostat eventually will not make much difference but we shall see.
As expected, going from factory thermostat to 180 seems to have dropped the temp by 15 degrees as expected.

[tomtom72]

Yun, which bolt? The top bolt that holds the bracket to the housing? Check that one as it may take a thread repair kit....I botched the initial threads on one of the other bolts that hold the housing halves together, and they are not blind holes so I just ran a tap thru and bought longer bolts. I think it was the bolt without the bracket....it was a few yrs ago so I don't remember exactly. I was thinking I was screwed, but when I looked & found that the holes were not blind I was relieved.

I'm almost positive the bracket to housing bolt is blind....you would think I'd remember, damn senility stinks!


Tom

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Yun, which bolt? The top bolt that holds the bracket to the housing? Check that one as it may take a thread repair kit....I botched the initial threads on one of the other bolts that hold the housing halves together, and they are not blind holes so I just ran a tap thru and bought longer bolts. I think it was the bolt without the bracket....it was a few yrs ago so I don't remember exactly. I was thinking I was screwed, but when I looked & found that the holes were not blind I was relieved.

I'm almost positive the bracket to housing bolt is blind....you would think I'd remember, damn senility stinks!


Tom

Bolts that clamp housing together are both fine fortunately. One bolt that holds the bousing to the bracket seems to be stripped. I figure the next time the car is on the lift at one of WAZOO meet I can get a better look and figure a solution. Either way, this is not that critical - right?
I did this with driver side jacked up w/ Corvette jack (I know not a good idea but I was only partially under the car) out at the condo car wash area and really did not want to turn into a major production.
Tom - I know what you mean about getting old.
Any chance you can make WAZOO get together at Glenn's this Saturday in Annapolis?

[tomtom72]

Yun, looking in my 90's FSM I do believe that the bracket uses the two top bolts if I'm not mistaken? The bolt on top rear is an open backed hole so if that's the one you are concerned with it should be no problem to correct. In any event when I go clean my car tonight I will have a look so I can speak more positively. I do think that my earlier post is not accurate as to which bolt holes are blind and which are not. Senility still stinks!

Let me do a map quest on Annapolis as I have never been there. Hummmm, 9 hrs round trip....let me ponder this one.


Tom