DRM Coilovers,PICS ! Wow why the hell did I wait ?

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks to Pantera's suggestion I finally upgraded the rear trailing arms pictured above to Banskis racing trailing arms. They feel better and are quieter than the trailing arms that were removed. They use the Omega Heim link ends. I highly reccomend using the boot covers that Banski sells as an add to this kit as it keeps the dirt dust and grit out of the links.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Aurora40

It seems odd that steel providing the force vs fiberglass can make such a difference, but it seems everyone who installs them is more than pleased at the ride. There's no arguing the result.

Hey, Bob,

I use to wonder about this also. After spending some time dismantling the rear suspension during the bushing replacement, I theorized, perhaps, the main difference between the transverse leaf vs. coilovers is that the transverse leaf set up anchors the mid point of the leaf to the body structure. When one side of the axle goes into compression this upward motion, due to leaf mid anchor point, will have tendency to twist the car along the centerline. The reverse twisting would occur when in rebound.
With coil over there will be similar twisting also. However, since the car's axle pivots relative to the centerline (IRS), most of the twisting motion will be absorbed - differnce between IRS and solid axle.
I have a suspicion that the "Corvette jiggle" comes from the transverse leaf set up.
Another interesting thing I observed during the bushing replacement is that all the pivot joints, dog bones and rear struts, are not exactly perpendicular to rotation when wheels are moved up and down. Heim joint Goldcyclone is using allows for twisting motion as opposed to rotation only. These joints will reduce binding found in poly bushing.
Actually, factory rubber bushing allows for some rotation due to flexing of rubber and this is evident when these pieces are removed after, say, 100,000+ miles. By then, rubber degradation also translates to clanking noise - I know this quite well.
Well, this is my theory. I am considering coilovers after headers and P&P.

Goldcyclone,

One question I have regarding the heim joints - any idea how they survive with these joints being exposed to dirt and moisture for extended period of time? Do they need to be greased periodically?

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Goldcyclone,

One question I have regarding the heim joints - any idea how they survive with these joints being exposed to dirt and moisture for extended period of time? Do they need to be greased periodically?

Mine are not exposed. I went with the boot cover option that Banski racing offered. The earlier set loaned to me were indeed exposed. With these covers intact they should not need to be serviced. As stated bove my recommendation is only to install these with the covers.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Mine are not exposed. I went with the boot cover option that Banski racing offered. The earlier set loaned to me were indeed exposed. With these covers intact they should not need to be serviced. As stated bove my recommendation is only to install these with the covers.

SorryImissed that part. I did not know that you can get boot for the joint.

Thanks.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by secondchance

SorryImissed that part. I did not know that you can get boot for the joint.

Thanks.

Neither did I, I beleive this is fairly new, They fit tight like heat shrink almost

[carter200]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

I beleive this is fairly new, They fit tight like heat shrink almost

GC,
How about a pic of the boots?

[tomtom72]

Here is the web page from Banski.

http://www.banskimotorsports.com/C4_...oin.html#boots



I wrote to VB&P about the spherically jointed ( heim jointed? ) rear kit and they did not recommend it for street use....however they do not offer a boot kit for their parts.




Tom

[GOLDCYLON]

Thanks for the post up of the site. I tried to snap a pic on my car this morning but without pulling the rear wheel it did not come out well. I would not put these on your car without boots as Tom also suggests.

[VetteMed]

I'm going to be running my Banskis without the boots, street-driven. I read some mixed reviews of the seals-it boots, and so I am going to be the guinea pig for determining longevity of street-driven rod-ends without boots. Replacement rod ends are not very expensive, so if I burn up a couple in the process, I'm not worried. If I find that they have poor longevity, I'll probably have no choice but to at least try the boots.

[todesengel]

Modern suspension upgrade for a 20 year old car, how could it not be good?

I know that many consider the zr1 to be a masterpiece but everything can be improved upon.