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Old 02-25-2010   #21
jonszr1
 
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Default Re: "C" beam plates

yes just ck the front.
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Old 02-27-2010   #22
rkreigh
 
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Default Re: "C" beam plates

I have 2 more sets left and then that's it

$155 shipped or pick up for 150
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Old 02-28-2010   #23
Hammer
 
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Talking Re: "C" beam plates

Questions for those that have installed the Beam Plates:

Exactly where do you check the alignment?
Do you jack the transmission towards the upper and right tunnel to get the alignment right?
Do you tighten the back differential bolts and then check alignment?
Or
Are all the bolts just snug and then you check alignment?
Do you use red or blue locktite on the threads?

Thanks Guys
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Old 02-28-2010   #24
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Default Re: "C" beam plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
Questions for those that have installed the Beam Plates:

Exactly where do you check the alignment? I checked between C-Frame and side wall/underbody at location of C-frame bolts (transmission extension housing).
Do you jack the transmission towards the upper and right tunnel to get the alignment right? I placed jack under transmission (with a little upward pressure) BEFORE I loosened C-frame bolts.
Do you tighten the back differential bolts and then check alignment? I installed the C-Frame Plates at the rear (differential) first after placing a jack with a little pressure under the transmission (but not loosening the transmission extension C-Frame bolts). I tightened those differential C-Frame bolts and then moved to the front of the C-Frame (transmission extension housing).
Or
Are all the bolts just snug and then you check alignment? That is the idea......but on mine I tightened them up and found that the alignment was perfect anyway since I did no jacking or moving of the transmission after loosening the C-Frame bolts. And, since I did the differential C-Frame Plates first.
Do you use red or blue locktite on the threads? I used blue Loctite since I might recheck from time to time. I use blue Loctite on anything I think I will recheck such as the Plenum bolts for example.

Red loctite on the starter bolts, and the crankcase ventilation cover for example. Blue loctite on the oil pan and red loctite on the the oil pickup and baffle within the oil pan for another example.

Thanks Guys
It is kind of a corny measurement since you are measuring between the C-Frame and the side wall/Underbody which is heavily coated and made of light steel and the accuracy of the measurement needs only to be within 1/4 inch + or -. I think you are just making sure you did not put an angle in that front driveline U-joint by moving the transmission appreciably during the installation of the new C-Frame Plates.

The 1.77 in spacer should fit between the top of the driveline support to the underbody. The 1.1 in spacer should fit between the right side (passenger side) of the driveline support to the side wall. The driveline support is the "C" Frame.

You might check that alignment spacing before you start the project to see where your alignment is now. Then just keep that alignment with the installation of the new C-Frame Plates.

USE A TORQUE WRENCH

The guys still have not told me what happens if you OVER torque the front or rear C-Frame bolts

Last edited by Dynomite; 01-08-2012 at 09:41 PM.
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Old 02-28-2010   #25
Hammer
 
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Talking Re: "C" beam plates

I'm not just installing the beam plates, clutch too. I like the idea of checking the alignment before I start.
Thanks
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Old 03-01-2010   #26
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Default Re: "C" beam plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
I'm not just installing the beam plates, clutch too. I like the idea of checking the alignment before I start.
Thanks
If you are starting C-Frame Beam Plates installation from scratch (removing the C-Frame completely for clutch installation), I would align the front (transmission extension) first and install those Beam Plate bolts (not tight).

Then install bolts on the differential C-Frame Beam Plates (not tight). Tighten (Torque) front Beam Plate bolts (after you verify alignment) after you have the differential beam plate bolts installed but not tight.

I would then tighten differential Beam Plate bolts last since there is no alignment to be done on differential

Do you understand.....

Last edited by Dynomite; 03-01-2010 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 03-01-2010   #27
Hammer
 
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Talking Re: "C" beam plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
If you are starting C-Frame Beam Plates installation from scratch (removing the C-Frame completely for clutch installation), I would align the front (transmission extension) first and install those Beam Plate bolts (not tight).

Then install bolts on the differential C-Frame Beam Plates (not tight). Tighten (Torque) front Beam Plate bolts (after you verify alignment) after you have the differential beam plate bolts installed but not tight. I would then tighten differential Beam Plate bolts last since there is no alignment to be done on differential

Do you understand.....
Yepper. Got it.
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Old 03-01-2010   #28
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: "C" beam plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
Yepper. Got it.
Darn...let me finish first
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Old 03-01-2010   #29
Hammer
 
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Talking Re: "C" beam plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomite View Post
Darn...let me finish first
You had more?
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Old 03-01-2010   #30
Dynomite
 
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Default Re: "C" beam plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
You had more?
No...you will see what you copied is different a bit than what I ended up with (organization only).....

I could not even understand myself what I wrote for a while

I write these essays to get feedback on my own sanity

Last edited by Dynomite; 03-01-2010 at 09:35 PM.
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