F-Body wheel bearing installed

[Billy Mild]

Any ideas on rear wheel bearings? Appears advance auto parts doesn't carry them.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

Any ideas on rear wheel bearings? Appears advance auto parts doesn't carry them.

Rock Auto has SKF, National and AC Delco. I had good luck with National, but I'm not sure they were the same as the ones from Rock Auto.

[Billy Mild]

I recently have had a noise sometimes on acceleration usually at lower speeds, but seems to be consistent with speed more so then RPM. Also at a very high rate of speed say 80+ MPH I noticed the car has a horrible vibration that is felt through the chassis.

Usually wheel bearings make a rumbling noise, but on my car it hasn't been that. Almost sounds like something is rubbing occasional metal to metal type contact, but it isn't consistently there.

Is it possible I need all 4 wheel bearings?

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by lbszr

I've been running the F-body on my 90. ABS sensors removed. As mentioned, there would need to be a mod to the spindle for it to fit with the sensor on the bearing. I remove the sensor from the f-body bearing and have gotten the most life out of the bearings by filling the spindle cavity half up with 90 weight oil and giving the bearings a bath of oil. They seem to last significantly longer on the track with the oil, so the late model on the 90 has worked out good in this case.

That's pretty damned clever. did you fashion a threaded plug for the WSS bore so it could be filled OR ... ? I'm glad you came along. This done on an early '84/'85 with no ABS should be a piece of cake then. I never thought about the dissection of the F-body assembly. I just assumed it would demolish the effectiveness of the assembly procedure, a friend had asked me years ago about knocking off the sensor.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

That's pretty damned clever. did you fashion a threaded plug for the WSS bore so it could be filled OR ... ? I'm glad you came along. This done on an early '84/'85 with no ABS should be a piece of cake then. I never thought about the dissection of the F-body assembly. I just assumed it would demolish the effectiveness of the assembly procedure, a friend had asked me years ago about knocking off the sensor.

A rubber plug with a suspension shim holding it in, using the same bolt that held the sensor, if that makes sense. Does the 85 have the big o-ring seal like the 90 spindle. Because with the bearing sensor removed, dirt might get in if not sealed to the spindle?

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by lbszr

A rubber plug with a suspension shim holding it in, using the same bolt that held the sensor, if that makes sense. Does the 85 have the big o-ring seal like the 90 spindle. Because with the bearing sensor removed, dirt might get in if not sealed to the spindle?

The shim/seal/bolt makes sense. I understand that.. again pretty damned simple. I like a threaded plug I'd think just in case someone took a peak. I had a friend that didn't always "win the race" but he always won "the best engineered/assembled". He'd go nuts if I showed him the shim/plug arrangement. LOL

Yes it does use the o-ring. I thought that when assembling the hub/bearing to the spindle/knuckle you would use GMS/RTV to create a seal also. For the '84 - '85 as I mentioned I guess maybe the bore/tap and use a threaded plug might be in order. It seems that would simplify the assembly. I'm sure glad you wandered by this evening.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

The shim/seal/bolt makes sense. I understand that.. again pretty damned simple. I like a threaded plug I'd think just in case someone took a peak. I had a friend that didn't always "win the race" but he always won "the best engineered/assembled". He'd go nuts if I showed him the shim/plug arrangement. LOL

Yes it does use the o-ring. I thought that when assembling the hub/bearing to the spindle/knuckle you would use GMS/RTV to create a seal also. For the '84 - '85 as I mentioned I guess maybe the bore/tap and use a threaded plug might be in order. It seems that would simplify the assembly. I'm sure glad you wandered by this evening.

I know what you mean, but mine has a brake cooling duct running over the sensor area, so nobody can see it, not even when the wheel is off (but now everybody knows!!) I also have plans to stop tracking it and put the sensors back in, so I didn't want to modify the spindle.

[Karl]

And on a side note I plan on cleaning and detailing my z.

My suspension is embarrassingly dirty!

[batchman]

In my experience most hubs are now coming from the same factory in China. I have been amused at the number of marking discrepancies, and while running 2 C4's on slicks I must have gone through 40 hubs, of all brands except Moog (next!).

I don't believe there is any difference between F- and Y-body hubs other than the flange threads, and maybe the price.

I have heard wheel bearings make a surprising range of noises. First off, some amount of play is normal, I forget the limit value in the FSM for play but it is not zero. Pick wheel off ground and put some ooomph at 3/9 o'clock and again at 12/6. If you get the same play at both, it's the hub. If you have a noise you suspect is a hub, it'll change with speed and with side loading, in other words if you have the noise going straight and/or turning only one direction, it's a hub. An infrared pyrometer will also tell you about your hubs, or a back-of-the hand check (careful what you touch).

I actually started to back-date my hubs to the earlier style as they're a lot cheaper without the integral sensor. Haven't done it yet, but it's a spindle and harness (or just connector) change. I'd love to try the oil bath scheme (great idea!) but I really need my ABS - tried an event without it once. Wow. I really thought I never triggered it but turns out I do, at just about every big brake zone.

Later,
- Jeff

[lbszr]

Who has tried this bearing? Not sure if it is available. http://hoosierpe.com/tech-info/4th-g...-hub-assembly/