Flywheel install and tec..., etc..., etc...

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Scrrem

Great writeup Yun!! Thanks again for the pre-amp!

Rich

You are more then welcome! Thanks for the hospitality.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by SteelBlueZR1

Hey Yun... Congrats on the successful renewal of your Z. I wish I could have been there to help. Are you going to Carlisle?

Thanks Bert. Things I could do that a typical shops never will, not to mention the cost:

- Bell housing thoroughly cleaned (4cans of Brake Clean follwed by Simple Green).
- Tunnel throughly cleaned and additional Dynamat installed.
- Rubber shift boot properly installed.

Item 2 and 3 resulted in reduction of road/ehaust noise AND console area staying cool - no more luke warm Coke!!!

Yes.I will be at Carlisle for sure. See you at Carlisle.

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by secondchance

...- Rubber shift boot properly installed.

Item 2 and 3 resulted in reduction of road/ehaust noise AND console area staying cool - no more luke warm Coke!!!..

I just checked my boot and it was off the trans tunnel collar. with 90d heat, you could fry an egg on my console.

[zrwhat]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

I just checked my boot and it was off the trans tunnel collar. with 90d heat, you could fry an egg on my console.

Dom,

I've found that after a while, the factory lower boots tend to relax or swell from the adhesive used when new causing seperation from the trans tunnel lip they attach to.

When I installed a new one, I remove all factory adhesive/sealant and installed dry, this way the chemicals are not there to attack the new rubber and make them swell and cause air gaps. Lowered console temps by 20 or more degrees, especially when the windows are down.

With the windows up and A/C on, the gap allows cooler air to pass out of the gap on the boot causing a ldrop in efficiency for the A/C in the passenger compartment.

Gibby

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by zrwhat

Dom,

I've found that after a while, the factory lower boots tend to relax or swell from the adhesive used when new causing seperation from the trans tunnel lip they attach to.

When I installed a new one, I remove all factory adhesive/sealant and installed dry, this way the chemicals are not there to attack the new rubber and make them swell and cause air gaps. Lowered console temps by 20 or more degrees, especially when the windows are down.

With the windows up and A/C on, the gap allows cooler air to pass out of the gap on the boot causing a ldrop in efficiency for the A/C in the passenger compartment.

Gibby

Gib,

I was thinking of using a large zip tie around the collar of that boot.

[secondchance]

I may be wrong (I may be the only sloppy one out there) but I think a lot of times when the transmission is removed for any servicing (clutch, shifter upgrade, main seal, etc...), dropping transmission with the shifter handle attached will result in rubber boot dropping with the trans (yes, I am guilty of this). Also, while installing the tranny, if not meticulous, shifter shaft could easily push the boot off. Problem is a natural tendency is to try to reinstall the boot from the top. This is very difficult due to inaccessibility to the left side of the boot/lip in the tunnel. Best time to correct this is from the bottom while the tranny is out. I used a brake tool to do this. Zip tieing (if console is disassembled sufficiently to access) certainly will guarantee that the boot will stay on.
Once seated properly, one has to be mindful of shifter shaft while pushing the tranny back onto the motor. Best is to have someone sit in the car and guide the shifter shaft top into the boot hole.
This is a minor work but a little attention to detail could go a long way to improve cooling and comfort level in the summer.