QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size - Page 3 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

-=Jeff=- · 11-18-2014

Yep.. you can use a later stator but rotor is a limit due to the style change.

Scratch that.. I would want the AD244 NOT THE CS130, If I Swapped

HMMM

5ABI VT · 11-21-2014

From what I can gather .. ALL of the alternator options are using a Denso hairpin stator with a billet housing machined for any fitment application. One told me this is the same alt that the c7 uses, and the hairpin stator allows it to be much more efficient, run cooler with less parasitic loss while providing much more amperage at idle and at speed. Not to forget much better long term durability. In my eyes it's an all win-win scenario moving to this option. It also looks cooler although I can't decide what finish to go with just yet. I should have my plenum and top end coming together in the next few days and I'll be using the oem one for now.

I measured the pulley using my caliper at the tip of the ridges and I get 2.78" 2.44 might be measured with a string at the bottom of the belt grooves ? Still don't know if there's a general standard for measuring pulley diameter.

-=Jeff=- · 11-22-2014

What is the cost for that alternator you are talking of? Dkd you dind out if you can use the OEM pulley with it?

5ABI VT · 11-22-2014

I'll double check my emails the range is $480-580 give or take depending on finish (most offer pc and anodizing) . The stock pulley won't work. I've been given reccomendations for pulley sizes from 2.2 to 2.9 and several in between. I'll most likely stock with close to stock sizes at 2.5 (measured at the 'peak' of the belt ribs)

KJL · 11-22-2014

Make sure your electrical connections are also in the proper locations. Purchased a Powermaster Alt that was advertised to fit with ZR1 and the pulley was too small and the harness connection was 90 degrees out of phase. I was not happy. I was able to get the stock unit working, cleaned and tightened the hot wire connection. Also, the upper connection that requires the through bolt was helicoiled and would only allow a short bolt to thread into it which is clearly not how that upper bracket is designed to work. The only way the direct fit powermaster will work is removal of the helicoil, swapping the pulleys and re-clocking the rear of the housing (if possible) to allow for the harness to reach the connector. I am not looking forward to once again navigating through the aftermarket "Direct fit" misinformation gauntlet. What a joke.

5ABI VT · 11-22-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJL

Make sure your electrical connections are also in the proper locations. Purchased a Powermaster Alt that was advertised to fit with ZR1 and the pulley was too small and the harness connection was 90 degrees out of phase. I was not happy. I was able to get the stock unit working, cleaned and tightened the hot wire connection. Also, the upper connection that requires the through bolt was helicoiled and would only allow a short bolt to thread into it which is clearly not how that upper bracket is designed to work. The only way the direct fit powermaster will work is removal of the helicoil, swapping the pulleys and re-clocking the rear of the housing (if possible) to allow for the harness to reach the connector. I am not looking forward to once again navigating through the aftermarket "Direct fit" misinformation gauntlet. What a joke.

Appreciate the input that's definitely something I'll ask about next. 2 vendors have told me that they will provide adapters to plug and play for the harness connection those being quality power and Dc power. Mechman said it would be straight fit but they also said at first it was a one wire race alternator and a side post for the 12v which I expressed I didn't want.

WVZR-1 · 11-22-2014

I can't imagine attempting this install without sending the vendor of your choice a correct alternator to use for modeling. There's way to many things to go wrong. You supply the correct "fitment" and they either can or can't replicate the fit. Using billet "one of" I actually can't imagine a vendor assuring you of "a fit" without having the correct fitment available to model from.

Where do you go with this if the product "as shipped" in a "NO FIT"?

11-18-2014	#21
-=Jeff=- Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 7,144	Re: QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size Yep.. you can use a later stator but rotor is a limit due to the style change. Scratch that.. I would want the AD244 NOT THE CS130, If I Swapped HMMM __________________ 1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 Last edited by -=Jeff=-; 11-18-2014 at 10:46 PM.

11-21-2014	#22
5ABI VT Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Toronto Posts: 782	Re: QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size From what I can gather .. ALL of the alternator options are using a Denso hairpin stator with a billet housing machined for any fitment application. One told me this is the same alt that the c7 uses, and the hairpin stator allows it to be much more efficient, run cooler with less parasitic loss while providing much more amperage at idle and at speed. Not to forget much better long term durability. In my eyes it's an all win-win scenario moving to this option. It also looks cooler although I can't decide what finish to go with just yet. I should have my plenum and top end coming together in the next few days and I'll be using the oem one for now. I measured the pulley using my caliper at the tip of the ridges and I get 2.78" 2.44 might be measured with a string at the bottom of the belt grooves ? Still don't know if there's a general standard for measuring pulley diameter.

11-22-2014	#23
-=Jeff=- Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 7,144	Re: QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size What is the cost for that alternator you are talking of? Dkd you dind out if you can use the OEM pulley with it? __________________ 1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978

11-22-2014	#24
5ABI VT Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Toronto Posts: 782	Re: QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size I'll double check my emails the range is $480-580 give or take depending on finish (most offer pc and anodizing) . The stock pulley won't work. I've been given reccomendations for pulley sizes from 2.2 to 2.9 and several in between. I'll most likely stock with close to stock sizes at 2.5 (measured at the 'peak' of the belt ribs)

11-22-2014	#25
KJL Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Roswell, GA Posts: 232	Re: QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size Make sure your electrical connections are also in the proper locations. Purchased a Powermaster Alt that was advertised to fit with ZR1 and the pulley was too small and the harness connection was 90 degrees out of phase. I was not happy. I was able to get the stock unit working, cleaned and tightened the hot wire connection. Also, the upper connection that requires the through bolt was helicoiled and would only allow a short bolt to thread into it which is clearly not how that upper bracket is designed to work. The only way the direct fit powermaster will work is removal of the helicoil, swapping the pulleys and re-clocking the rear of the housing (if possible) to allow for the harness to reach the connector. I am not looking forward to once again navigating through the aftermarket "Direct fit" misinformation gauntlet. What a joke. __________________ 1995 ZR1 #159 Ported,Corsa,4.10 Rear, Dual Disc RAM Clutch, Alum Flywheel, Haibeck Chip, ZFDoc Plates, Relocated Battery 400 rwhp 1992 ZR1 #280 Ported, Locked Secondary's, Flowmaster Exhaust, Haibeck Chip, 375rwhp 1996 Collectors LT4 (Stock) 1972 Convertible 434 Small Block 572 rwhp

11-22-2014	#27
WVZR-1 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 1,889	Re: QUestion about ALternator pulley size and belt size I can't imagine attempting this install without sending the vendor of your choice a correct alternator to use for modeling. There's way to many things to go wrong. You supply the correct "fitment" and they either can or can't replicate the fit. Using billet "one of" I actually can't imagine a vendor assuring you of "a fit" without having the correct fitment available to model from. Where do you go with this if the product "as shipped" in a "NO FIT"?