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#21 | |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 304
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I may take out the angle grinder and remove a thread or two off so it clears slightly easier going back in. |
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#22 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 304
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Were any of you aware of that part in the FSM that says in order to remove the PS pump and reservoir from the engine, you have to take your top end off and send it out for porting? I missed that step, but that is what is happening. I cannot get the coolant tube bolts to budge, so I am taking the top end off and crating it in a few days to send out to Pete for porting. He was generous enough to offer to remove the bolts. I did not feel like breaking it down today, instead I was chasing some oil leaks on the underside and I have some pictures. Hoping for some answers I want to hear.
So there is a sensor right next to the oil dipstick tube that was wet with oil and has been seeping it onto the bottom of the pan. When I unplugged it, the connector was soaked in oil. So I am guessing this sensor has failed internally and is leaking oil. Is there an available replacement for this part? I had the same issue with the low oil level sensor which also appears to be leaking oil out the connector. Also, there is a block off just ahead of the passenger O2 connector that is wet.l and it looks very difficult to reach. One bolt might be reachable. The other one not sure about. I should not be surprised as the parts are 30+ years old. I have been losing oil fast on small trips and it?s a collection of leaks from thes sensor locations and possibly the pan have added up together. Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 10:34 PM. |
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#23 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,572
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Yep! And then some...... Sorry to hear this. Yes, top end porting is in the FSM. [emoji38] While you are in there tips! See this post for one of your questions. I could not tell what you meant about the second one. http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=25144&page=2 Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 ![]() |
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#24 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,713
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First sensor next to the dipstick tube is crankshaft sensor. My experience with oil leak around crankshaft sensor is due to "O" ring. I found slightly larger "O" ring.
Send me your mailing address and i will send you a couple. |
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#25 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 304
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Thank you for the offer. By the time I read this, I had already ordered the replacement sensor. It was about $15 through Corvette Central. I will keep your offer in mind though, could not hurt to have the extra O rings on hand. Maybe you or someone else could point me in the right direction for the correct terminal removal tool. My TPS connector literally came apart as I unplugged it. I have some pick tools but they are not the right kind to release these terminals. Top end is crated up and off to Pete. Turn One just got my rack and pinion today. Thank you for the new pressure hose, Craig. So this is what they look like without 30+ years of service on them. It looks too pretty to install!
Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 10:34 PM. |
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#26 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,713
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This should work.
https://www.jbtools.com/lisle-14900-...iABEgIBAvD_BwE There use to be a GM connector website. If I find it, I?ll post it. Is that for TPS? Last edited by secondchance; 02-24-2021 at 08:41 PM. |
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#27 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,572
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Your project is looking good Jamall! Glad to hear the hose made it okay and to your liking. Wow! A top end crated up for shipping too! It will be nice to have that new R&P too. Best wishes with your progress and can?t wait to see and hear when done too. [emoji1303]🤙🏼 Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Craig "ZR-1 NO KA 'OI" "ZR-1 ICHIBAN" 1995 #228 Black/Black with Dunn Heads ZR-1 owner since September 2003 ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #0074 NCM Lifetime Member #2048 ![]() |
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#28 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 304
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I know this topic has gotten off track a bit but rather than clutter up the tech section with multiple threads, I wanted to keep the bulk of my questions here. So it looks like I MAY be able to reach the oil pressure regulator block off plate bolts if I remove the water pump hose. I have silicone hoses installed everywhere else except for this last hose which I let stay due to how tricky it looked getting out.
I have looked and looked and the smooth hose clamps I would use to secure the new silicone hose in place look tricky. As in there does not appear to be a good angle of attack to properly tighten the hose end connected to the thermostat housing. Has anyone used the factory clamps on these silicone hoses? The water pump connection appears doable, it is just the end that slips over the thermostat housing looks impossible with using the screw type hose clamp. |
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#29 | |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,713
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I don't know exactly what you mean by factory clamp (type you compress two tabs to loosen?). I am using screw type clamp for coolant hose to thermostat housing and not too difficult to tighten from below. Below is the hose clamp I am using for all silicone hoses. http://www.breezehoseclamps.com/breeze/liner/ |
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#30 | |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 304
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A long neck flat blade screwdriver snaked down to it from the top is tough. And I know these clamps need to be pretty tight or you can have a leak. I have found a flat blade screwdriver just deflects out of the slot once you require extra force to tighten it. Maybe I will play with some extensions and swivel sockets and the appropriate socket to reach that area. |
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