Baer brakes = INCREDIBLE stopping power!

[Aurora40]

I have not heard back from Baer. I will call them today. I was curious if anyone else had tried them yet, as at one point the tech guy was like "we've shipped many of these and haven't heard of any problems". No responses on CF. I wonder if anyone else has tried installing them yet?

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Aurora40

I have not heard back from Baer. I will call them today. I was curious if anyone else had tried them yet, as at one point the tech guy was like "we've shipped many of these and haven't heard of any problems". No responses on CF. I wonder if anyone else has tried installing them yet?

According to Jeffvette your model is "Brand New" and just replaced a particular model

To quote one of my favorite Star Trek Series I can safely say that YOU Bob are boldly going.........

[tf95ZR1]

Are these the 6p's ? I ordered a set weeks ago but haven't received them
yet. I'll let you know..........
I wonder if you got a bum set and should send them back and get another set.

Oops, just saw the original post and I think these are the same 6p's that I ordered.

[A26B]

Bob,

I re-read this thread & it sounds like the caliper centers OK & the rotor turns freely with the pads in. The trouble starts when you connect the brake line & the center, inboard piston extends, pressing the inboard pad tightly against the rotor & "warping" the caliper & bracket, creating the large gap between the inboard side of the rotor & caliper as pictured.

You also said you had to remove the brake line banjo fitting bolt to get it to retract. I cannot imagine any way for hydraulic pressure to be involved, especially with air in the caliper & the pedal not being pressed. Simply opening the brake caliper bleeder would eliminate this possibility. As such, the only situation I can come up with is the brake line bolt is too long & causing the center inboard piston to extend. (I think you did say in post #17 that the bolt was right behind the center inboard piston)

Can you check the caliper with all pistons fully retracted to see if there is anything directly behind the bolt hole & then see how much bolt is extending through the brake line fitting before it is installed?

Jerry

Originally Posted by A26B

As such, the only situation I can come up with is the brake line bolt is too long & causing the center inboard piston to extend. (I think you did say in post #17 that the bolt was right behind the center inboard piston)

Can you check the caliper with all pistons fully retracted to see if there is anything directly behind the bolt hole & then see how much bolt is extending through the brake line fitting before it is installed?

Jerry

Jerry, even though I have not seen the 6P in person (and after hearing this not sure I care to) no brake caliper that I have ever come across that is made in the past ten years, has the bolt just directly going blind into the passage. It always tapers down to a funnel. It would be impossible to push the bolt that far in.

It would be curious to put the pistons back in all the way, and just bolt up the brake line and see what the pistons do.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

Jerry, even though I have not seen the 6P in person (and after hearing this not sure I care to) no brake caliper that I have ever come across that is made in the past ten years, has the bolt just directly going blind into the passage. It always tapers down to a funnel. It would be impossible to push the bolt that far in.

It would be curious to put the pistons back in all the way, and just bolt up the brake line and see what the pistons do.

I'm with you Jeff..... I haven't seen the caliper either. Just seems that everything is fine up to that point of the install. SImply bolting the line to the caliper should not cause the piston to move out, especially not that much, but it does. Must be related somehow. Definitely interested in the ultimate cause.

Jerry

[Aurora40]

Hey Jerry, opening the bleeder didn't help. I'll take a look at the back of the caliper just to see, after all they are just laying there in the garage. As far as I know though, it's the banjo bolt that came with the car.

Jeff, basically the middle piston will push out. It doesn't push out to max extension though. Like when removing the caliper. I'd loosen the bolt, push the pad in, and take the caliper off. Then I'd tighten the bolt so that I wasn't making more of a mess, and the piston would slowly push out and stop. I'd have to loosen the bolt and press it in to put the caliper back on again.

[A26B]

If opening the bleeder doesn't relieve the pressure on the piston, like it does when you loosen the banjo bolt, then either the bleeder or the caliper is defective. The fact that only the center piston on the inboard side moves, is a really messed up situation. All 6 pistons are supposed to be hydraulically connected. I haven't got a clue as to why the piston moves out slowly and has enough force to warp the caliper away from the rotor, but the problem is, in my mind, definitely hydraulic related, not mechanical & not an external machining error.

[Aurora40]

So I talked to the guy from Baer again. He said the banjo bolt could be too long, apparently if it were long enough it can screw in and hit the piston. I'm not sure that's necessarily what is happening, as it slowly extends out, not as you tighten the bolt. But perhaps it is too long for fluid to flow properly?

He also said it should still be rigid with that amount of shimming, though also that the amount of shimming I've needed is not normal for their systems. Really if you look at the stock caliper mounting bracket, there's no way that thing could work if the spindle could have 1/8" or more of variance. The stock caliper mounting bracket is fairly close to the rotor on both sides.

Anyway, he's gonna check on the banjo bolt, and we'll see.

Jerry, fwiw, the bleeder valve does work to bleed the brakes, in that fluid comes out when you apply the pedal.

[Aurora40]

Yup, the bolts are too long. You can see scoring/marring on the back of the piston through the bolt hole. Also you can just tell from how short the thread is and how freaking long the stock bolt is that there's no way that thing could fit.

Baer is sending me some shorter banjo bolts, and hopefully it'll be all well after that. I'll try to toss 'em on this weekend, but we'll see...