1157 front non error LED blinker testing plug and play - Page 3 - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

GOLDCYLON · 07-25-2017

So while it works great in the day.... When the headlights are on the turn signals error. GRRRR. I consulted with -=JEFF=- and now he has the plug and play solution.

For a while the temporary solution was to pull the side marker turn signal bulbs and this mod will work. Jeff now has a plug an play solution that I have been testing on my car for over a month now that allows the amber side markers to blink as well as the front signal LED bulbs

Here is the plug and play side marker prototype that -=JEFF=- made to solve the side marker turn signal error problem. Jeff used GM connectors so there are no connection issues.

Here is the only two connectors to have to worry about one end extends from the units and plugs in the factory harness. The other is the LED bulb end which inserts in the light housing. The black wire is simply grounded.

Here is the unit banjoed into place below the light housing. I used zip ties and heat shrink wrap to protect the connection end into the factory sidemarkers wiring socket.

GOLDCYLON · 10-09-2017

I highly recommend the Amber and Red color bulbs for the side markers for the front and the rear.

Part numbers from Superbrightleds.com are

24-AHP: 24 LED Bulb- 1 SMD LED -Miniature Wedge Retrofit -Amber

24-RHP: 24 LED Bulb- 1 SMD LED - Minatare Wedge Retrofit -Red

Can you use the white LEDS? Yes but they are so bright they tend to wash out the Factory red and amber lenses. So I went to the colored LED wedge bulbs and they work great.

-=Jeff=- · 10-10-2017

Once I am more mobile I will work on these sets again

Sent from my Nexus 7 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

GOLDCYLON · 10-10-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Once I am more mobile I will work on these sets again

Sent from my Nexus 7 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

NP -=JEFF=- I will need two more

-=Jeff=- · 10-11-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

NP -=JEFF=- I will need two more

Yep you are first on the list when I am back in action

Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry

GOLDCYLON · 10-11-2017

Most excellent

Paul Workman · 10-12-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tripler

Youtube is still free to upload video . Photobucket are the ones asking for $399 ...

"ASKING FOR"... Kinda like kidnapping and "ASKING" for RANSOM! Doan git me started!

GOLDCYLON · 10-12-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

"ASKING FOR"... Kinda like kidnapping and "ASKING" for RANSOM! Doan git me started!

A gun and a mask are involved so I moved my photo hosting efforts over to imgur.com

Paul Workman · 10-12-2017

Just FYI regarding LEDs and resistors, in case 'lectric chit' isn't your forte' and you're perhaps confused about whether or not this or that LED has or should have appropriate resistance built into the (automotive) device(s).

The (discrete) Light Emitting Diode (LED "chip") itself, except for giving off light, has the same electrical properties of any common "diode" device: They act like a "vacuum check valve"; only in an electrical circuit, allowing current to flow quite freely in one direction only; and because of this, diodes are sometimes referred to as a "switch".

But, in addition to very low (forward bias) resistance, LED chips are very limited as to the max current flow. Low resistance, but low max current capability would be a disaster for the little diode chip if not for a resistor placed in series with the diode chip, a resistance specifically chosen to limit the current flow in a particular (automotive in this case) application.

So, LED bulb replacements for dash light bulbs are typically packaged with an internal series resistor to limit the current to that which allows the LED to light up, but not so much as to destroy the diode*.

*More sophisticated LED packages include voltage regulators and even more complexity beyond a mere resistor to allow the particular LED device to be used in a wider array of applications and voltage environments.

However, some more complex automotive circuits, e.g., headlights and turn signals, etc depend on the original bulbs; in particular their current draw, or the fact the OE bulb will pass current in either direction! So, in those applications, there needs to be a "load" resistor included in the LED package, OR a relay circuit installed - depending on the application.

A "load" resistor replaces the filament resistance as result of removing the OE bulb. Such a resistor is installed across what was the 12V input terminal for the OE bulb and ground. (This load resistor is in addition to the series resistor installed to limit the current through the LED chip itself.) As far as the rest of the circuit is concerned, the load resistor looks like the original bulb is still operational. The majority of the current flows through the load resistor like normal, and only a trickle flows to the LED. As result, the turn signals or fog lamps, etc. co-exist with the LED substitute. Everybody wins!

Using a load resistor has an advantage in its simplicity; plug and play. The disadvantages include there is NO reduction in circuit current, and depending on the application, there is a lot of heat generated. Use of a load resistor requires consideration for heat: which can be significant.

Where a relay might restore functionality to other devices in the circuit very efficiently, the load resistor's heat may not be all bad. Consider one of the drawbacks of LED headlights is the lack of heat LEDs generate. OE bulbs kept the headlight free of ice in winter - especially in storms or freezing spray from other traffic.

Designing a way to take advantage of the load resistance heat - using it to keep the headlights defrosted... I'll leave it to someone to figure a way. (But! You heard it here first!!)

DRM500RUBYZR-1 · 10-14-2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Just FYI regarding LEDs and resistors, in case 'lectric chit' isn't your forte' and you're perhaps confused about whether or not this or that LED has or should have appropriate resistance built into the (automotive) device(s).

The (discrete) Light Emitting Diode (LED "chip") itself, except for giving off light, has the same electrical properties of any common "diode" device: They act like a "vacuum check valve"; only in an electrical circuit, allowing current to flow quite freely in one direction only; and because of this, diodes are sometimes referred to as a "switch".

But, in addition to very low (forward bias) resistance, LED chips are very limited as to the max current flow. Low resistance, but low max current capability would be a disaster for the little diode chip if not for a resistor placed in series with the diode chip, a resistance specifically chosen to limit the current flow in a particular (automotive in this case) application.

So, LED bulb replacements for dash light bulbs are typically packaged with an internal series resistor to limit the current to that which allows the LED to light up, but not so much as to destroy the diode*.

*More sophisticated LED packages include voltage regulators and even more complexity beyond a mere resistor to allow the particular LED device to be used in a wider array of applications and voltage environments.

However, some more complex automotive circuits, e.g., headlights and turn signals, etc depend on the original bulbs; in particular their current draw, or the fact the OE bulb will pass current in either direction! So, in those applications, there needs to be a "load" resistor included in the LED package, OR a relay circuit installed - depending on the application.

A "load" resistor replaces the filament resistance as result of removing the OE bulb. Such a resistor is installed across what was the 12V input terminal for the OE bulb and ground. (This load resistor is in addition to the series resistor installed to limit the current through the LED chip itself.) As far as the rest of the circuit is concerned, the load resistor looks like the original bulb is still operational. The majority of the current flows through the load resistor like normal, and only a trickle flows to the LED. As result, the turn signals or fog lamps, etc. co-exist with the LED substitute. Everybody wins!

Using a load resistor has an advantage in its simplicity; plug and play. The disadvantages include there is NO reduction in circuit current, and depending on the application, there is a lot of heat generated. Use of a load resistor requires consideration for heat: which can be significant.

Where a relay might restore functionality to other devices in the circuit very efficiently, the load resistor's heat may not be all bad. Consider one of the drawbacks of LED headlights is the lack of heat LEDs generate. OE bulbs kept the headlight free of ice in winter - especially in storms or freezing spray from other traffic.

Designing a way to take advantage of the load resistance heat - using it to keep the headlights defrosted... I'll leave it to someone to figure a way. (But! You heard it here first!!)

Thank you!
I can now understand that!
However, I guess I will just stick to regular bulbs in this car.
But now I know why, I just can't stick in a darn bulb, ahh or switch or diode, oh LED, and be done with it

Marty

07-25-2017	#21
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,154	update So while it works great in the day.... When the headlights are on the turn signals error. GRRRR. I consulted with -=JEFF=- and now he has the plug and play solution. For a while the temporary solution was to pull the side marker turn signal bulbs and this mod will work. Jeff now has a plug an play solution that I have been testing on my car for over a month now that allows the amber side markers to blink as well as the front signal LED bulbs Here is the plug and play side marker prototype that -=JEFF=- made to solve the side marker turn signal error problem. Jeff used GM connectors so there are no connection issues. Here is the only two connectors to have to worry about one end extends from the units and plugs in the factory harness. The other is the LED bulb end which inserts in the light housing. The black wire is simply grounded. Here is the unit banjoed into place below the light housing. I used zip ties and heat shrink wrap to protect the connection end into the factory sidemarkers wiring socket. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 10-09-2017 at 10:44 PM.

10-09-2017	#22
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,154	Re: 1157 front non error LED blinker testing plug and play I highly recommend the Amber and Red color bulbs for the side markers for the front and the rear. Part numbers from Superbrightleds.com are 24-AHP: 24 LED Bulb- 1 SMD LED -Miniature Wedge Retrofit -Amber 24-RHP: 24 LED Bulb- 1 SMD LED - Minatare Wedge Retrofit -Red Can you use the white LEDS? Yes but they are so bright they tend to wash out the Factory red and amber lenses. So I went to the colored LED wedge bulbs and they work great. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V Last edited by GOLDCYLON; 10-18-2017 at 01:22 PM.

10-10-2017	#23
-=Jeff=- Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Bartlett, IL Posts: 7,150	Re: 1157 front non error LED blinker testing plug and play Once I am more mobile I will work on these sets again Sent from my Nexus 7 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app __________________ 1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978

10-11-2017	#26
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,154	Re: 1157 front non error LED blinker testing plug and play Most excellent __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

10-12-2017	#29
Paul Workman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri Posts: 6,493	Re: 1157 front non error LED blinker testing plug and play Just FYI regarding LEDs and resistors, in case 'lectric chit' isn't your forte' and you're perhaps confused about whether or not this or that LED has or should have appropriate resistance built into the (automotive) device(s). The (discrete) Light Emitting Diode (LED "chip") itself, except for giving off light, has the same electrical properties of any common "diode" device: They act like a "vacuum check valve"; only in an electrical circuit, allowing current to flow quite freely in one direction only; and because of this, diodes are sometimes referred to as a "switch". But, in addition to very low (forward bias) resistance, LED chips are very limited as to the max current flow. Low resistance, but low max current capability would be a disaster for the little diode chip if not for a resistor placed in series with the diode chip, a resistance specifically chosen to limit the current flow in a particular (automotive in this case) application. So, LED bulb replacements for dash light bulbs are typically packaged with an internal series resistor to limit the current to that which allows the LED to light up, but not so much as to destroy the diode. More sophisticated LED packages include voltage regulators and even more complexity beyond a mere resistor to allow the particular LED device to be used in a wider array of applications and voltage environments. However, some more complex automotive circuits, e.g., headlights and turn signals, etc depend on the original bulbs; in particular their current draw, or the fact the OE bulb will pass current in either direction! So, in those applications, there needs to be a "load" resistor included in the LED package, OR a relay circuit installed - depending on the application. A "load" resistor replaces the filament resistance as result of removing the OE bulb. Such a resistor is installed across what was the 12V input terminal for the OE bulb and ground. (This load resistor is in addition to the series resistor installed to limit the current through the LED chip itself.) As far as the rest of the circuit is concerned, the load resistor looks like the original bulb is still operational. The majority of the current flows through the load resistor like normal, and only a trickle flows to the LED. As result, the turn signals or fog lamps, etc. co-exist with the LED substitute. Everybody wins! Using a load resistor has an advantage in its simplicity; plug and play. The disadvantages include there is NO reduction in circuit current, and depending on the application, there is a lot of heat generated. Use of a load resistor requires consideration for heat: which can be significant. Where a relay might restore functionality to other devices in the circuit very efficiently, the load resistor's heat may not be all bad. Consider one of the drawbacks of LED headlights is the lack of heat LEDs generate. OE bulbs kept the headlight free of ice in winter - especially in storms or freezing spray from other traffic. Designing a way to take advantage of the load resistance heat - using it to keep the headlights defrosted... I'll leave it to someone to figure a way. *(But! You heard it here first!!)* __________________ Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry