Make into Track Car, or sell along? advice?

[cbaclawski]

Originally Posted by VetteFantasy

Here's another vote for tracking it! Sounds like there's not much left to do to get your car ready. I think you'll have a blast in it, honestly. I'm doing my first HPDE with mine in two weeks at VIR. Yesterday my husband and I were there for the IMSA race and I did the parade laps to practice for it. Wow, my appreciation and enjoyment of the car just skyrocketed! It felt so stable even blasting down the back straight. The previous owner totally track prepped it and traveled to many tracks along the East coast with it.

I really don't think you'd regret doing it. Randy Rippie of DRM is a great resource for track stuff, too, and he lives in NC. I'd be happy to share his contact info and I know he'd be more than happy to give you some advice.

Here's a pic of mine from yesterday. Look closely and you can see the roll bar! Even in a sea of 200 Vettes, it gets lots of admiration and attention. You just don't see them very often!

Its a done deal... going to the shop next week. Hope to see some of you guys on track someday soon (as you point me by )

[tnova]

Big John,
I've a '91 ZR-1 that I'm preparing for autocross and an occasional track day and have been debating about what to do with seat in order to use a harness. Your seat is a perfect solution. What year is your seat from? Could you describe the mods a little bit more since it's not only the sub strap but the shoulder strap pass through that you had done. BTW I track a brand "P" in time trials about 6 times a year, full on track car that was a former club racer with a Momo seat and 6 point Schroth harness and I wear a HANS (required for my class). I'd never go on the track without a 5 or 6 point. Too many situations where staying firmly planted in the seat was the difference between maintaining control and losing it.
Tony -Tnova

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted by tnova

Big John,
I've a '91 ZR-1 that I'm preparing for autocross and an occasional track day and have been debating about what to do with seat in order to use a harness. Your seat is a perfect solution. What year is your seat from? Could you describe the mods a little bit more since it's not only the sub strap but the shoulder strap pass through that you had done. BTW I track a brand "P" in time trials about 6 times a year, full on track car that was a former club racer with a Momo seat and 6 point Schroth harness and I wear a HANS (required for my class). I'd never go on the track without a 5 or 6 point. Too many situations where staying firmly planted in the seat was the difference between maintaining control and losing it.
Tony -Tnova

My seats are 95 sport seats.
Callaway Cars sent them to an upholster for modifications and custom hides.

[RussMcB]

Originally Posted by cbaclawski

I had an instructor last season whose real job was an emergency room surgeon. He was adamant that he would not ride in a car with a 4pt harness, on the track or otherwise..(though he was ok with stock 3pt)

I stand corrected. I did a little research and, it seems that while a 4-point is good for holding you in the seat (like, for autocrossing), sub strap(s) is still better crash protection, because the shoulder belts will still want to pull the lap belt upwards.

Thanks for poking me into rethinking my opinion.

[cbaclawski]

Thanks to all that replied, I'm sold, car is going to the race shop Tuesday.

Here's what I plan to have done:

Definite:
1.) Seats/harnesses attached to a harness bar. Decided against a cage since I don't want to destroy the interior(want to run the zr1, not just another stripped vette)
2.)brakes - already have upgraded rotors and steel lines, probably just switch pads
3.)new radiator (car runs a bit hot)
4.)tires - would appreciate some input here, stick with stock width's or square it up, if changing what should I change to?
5.)basic maintenance - thoroughly check everything(no leaks, fuel pumps, injectors, etc...)

maybe:
1.)suspension upgrade, depending on what the shop reports on the condition/quality of what I have, might make an upgrade here. What would be a good choice?
2.)remove secondary intake system - I've checked that it's functioning properly, but it bothers me and would like to remove it as a potential failure point(and tired of constantly worrying that it's not working, I'm a bit paranoid. (if we do this, we'll change the plug wires while under there - coils and injectors are new)
3.) cool looking wing on the back!

Not being a mechanic or a super experienced track driver I know I'm probably overlooking some important stuff. Not really looking to add HP(plenty of that already) My priorities in order are Safety, Reliability, Performance, Cool looking.

I'd love to keep the total cost under $10k (probably already at $3500 with just seats harnesses and tires) Recommendations?

Curt

[ssrszz4]

Get the Dewitt radiator

Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

[cbaclawski]

Originally Posted by ssrszz4

Get the Dewitt radiator

Sent from my XT1585 using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app

this one?

https://www.dewitts.com/collections/...minum-radiator

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by cbaclawski

Thanks to all that replied, I'm sold, car is going to the race shop Tuesday.

Here's what I plan to have done:


4.)tires - would appreciate some input here, stick with stock width's or square it up, if changing what should I change to?


Curt

The 315s square make it handle great. It's easy to overdrive the 275s. The 315's will balance it. The 56mm offset 17 inch wheels will fit the front and the rear with spacers and can be rotated. They will rub some on the front. If your used to using Rs, the Hoosier R7 are good. The NT01 are ok and seem to last longer, but they won't stick as much, I stopped getting them because the price went up to about Hoosier cost. I went with VBP extreme springs and sway bars. It was good improvement. I wouldn't recommend the R7 or nt01 if you drive to the track.


They like to eat wheel bearings so spares are nice. Also, inspect the bearing flange radius for cracks. Mine broke a flange off and the caliper held the wheel on, luckily I wasn't in a hard turn when it made the bang. This summer, another front flange cracked all the way around but didn't break yet. I check them before each event. The rear bearings don't seem to have these problems.


I run the Dewitts. It runs about 210 and oil temp is my limit. Oil will peg if no short shifting. Outside temp was 95 though. 75 to 80, it will make the whole session with no short shifting.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by cbaclawski

this one?

https://www.dewitts.com/collections/...minum-radiator

I think mine is the 2 row. I remember it was over $500. There wasn't a 1 row option when I got mine. I don't know which one would be better. I would give them a call.

[henryr]

Originally Posted by lbszr

The 315s square make it handle great. It's easy to overdrive the 275s. The 315's will balance it. The 56mm offset 17 inch wheels will fit the front and the rear with spacers and can be rotated. They will rub some on the front. If your used to using Rs, the Hoosier R7 are good. The NT01 are ok and seem to last longer, but they won't stick as much, I stopped getting them because the price went up to about Hoosier cost. I went with VBP extreme springs and sway bars. It was good improvement. I wouldn't recommend the R7 or nt01 if you drive to the track.


They like to eat wheel bearings so spares are nice. Also, inspect the bearing flange radius for cracks. Mine broke a flange off and the caliper held the wheel on, luckily I wasn't in a hard turn when it made the bang. This summer, another front flange cracked all the way around but didn't break yet. I check them before each event. The rear bearings don't seem to have these problems.


I run the Dewitts. It runs about 210 and oil temp is my limit. Oil will peg if no short shifting. Outside temp was 95 though. 75 to 80, it will make the whole session with no short shifting.

the "normal" 17x11 (56et) will fir up front ?

u have a pick of what that looks like ?