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#21 |
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: I live at Devens, one run at a time
Posts: 455
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From the sound of it (ie at higher speeds) your problem is front end rather than usual wonky rear grip.
For front stability you want *more* caster, will increase steering effort and centering. If you have a matched pair side-to-side of shims on the rear-most end of the upper arms, pull 'em both. For front stability you want more toe-in, easy to do yourself and tune out your pull at the same time. Use small increments (like 1/8 turn). One thing to look at that happened to my car - the rag joint loosened up on the rack end. Those joints suck anyway, tonight I'm going to try grafting in the "hockey puck" style from a regular C4. I am just afraid they went to the canvas one due to angle as it's a lot further down than the normal one... (sorry 'cuz that sounds like a hijack) I've never used the Banski arms (not allowed in my rules) but sometimes when you take compliance out of one joint you increase the stress on another to the point where it moves more than otherwise would. So I guess I wouldn't rule out a bushing in the rear somewhere. In fact the more I think about it the rear is a good candidate as the steering rack and bushings etc would be more wonky under cornering load than while accelerating. Best, - Jeff
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[I]91 ZR-1 #1840, autocrossing in SCCA BSP. FIC S/S's DRM chip/Watson/Borla/lid/LW batt&headlights, springs, shocks, pads & lines, quick rack & Turn One, camber brace, 32/22mm sways, A/C halfway deleted 17x11 & 12 CCW's, 315 & 335 Hoosier A6s [/I] Last edited by batchman; 06-12-2012 at 04:54 PM. Reason: clarity |
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#22 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,828
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Yep, all ball joints were new last year, batwing bushings new poly last year.
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2004 Z06/Z16 LeMans Commemorative Edition 1991 ZR-1 #302 White/Gray (sold) 1991 ZR-1 #1147 Red/Saddle (sold) |
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