SYS on display and speedometer and odometer stopped working

[ZuggZR1]

So am I reading correctly in the SM that I need to have access to the starter to replace the positive battery cable? Does that mean pulling the intake again?

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by ZuggZR1

So am I reading correctly in the SM that I need to have access to the starter to replace the positive battery cable? Does that mean pulling the intake again?

Correct...
H

[chriskinzel]

I would still start with a new battery that has tested 13-14 volts. Been there. New battery fixed it all.


Sent from my iPad using ZR-1 Net Registry

[ZuggZR1]

But when I moved the positive cable I got power back so that would make me believe that the cable is faulty correct? If you recall when doing the code retrieval the car powered off and did not come back on till I was poking around and moved the postive cable and I heard the power antenna come on and when I opened the door had lights now.

[BigJohn]

Maybe intermittent short in the battery

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by ZuggZR1

But when I moved the positive cable I got power back so that would make me believe that the cable is faulty correct? If you recall when doing the code retrieval the car powered off and did not come back on till I was poking around and moved the postive cable and I heard the power antenna come on and when I opened the door had lights now.

1- A failing battery, or one that fully lost it's charge and now exhibits a dead cell when properly tested, regardless of how "new" it is.
2- The very next step after load testing the battery is an examination of the battery cable bolts and the contact surface of the cable.
3- "The meaning of TIGHT" Loose battery bolts have got to rank right up there. After 1 and 2, simply try to twist the cable after you tighten it. If it moves, go a bit tighter until you are certain that the clean surface and the new bolt are making full contact with the clean battery terminal.

plz go back to post 20


Marty

[ZuggZR1]

OK battery was tested and it was in fact low on CC amps. So they charged it for me and even as fully charged the SYS is still being displayed on the dash.

When I try and do the jumper A/B light I see nothing displayed. But when I do A/G I do get the sasme codes Ive been seeing in previous posts.

Do notice the car is running very rough when starting now as on observation since all this has started to happen.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by ZuggZR1

OK battery was tested and it was in fact low on CC amps. So they charged it for me and even as fully charged the SYS is still being displayed on the dash.

When I try and do the jumper A/B light I see nothing displayed. But when I do A/G I do get the sasme codes Ive been seeing in previous posts.

Do notice the car is running very rough when starting now as on observation since all this has started to happen.

I had a feeling.... what codes do you see?
H

[ZuggZR1]

Her is jumper results tonite: Jumper A&B: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h3mca5zpct...A%26B.mp4?dl=0

Jumper A&G: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3mdow9gpv7...A%26G.mp4?dl=0

What was your feeling.

[-=Jeff=-]

My feeling? ECM is bad.. I do have a question.. with no jumpers and you turn key on, what does SES do?