Locobob's Interior Mod Thread

[-=Jeff=-]

Yes, mine is sort if bent inward, I will fix it this winter

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by Locobob

I'm still using the bose speakers/amps with a PAC OEM-1 adapter so the ground is as stock - just runs in and out of the adapter. Kinda sounds like only the rear speakers are whining - need to check that a little closer and confirm if that is the case.

So I checked it out and the rpm whine is coming from all four speakers.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Locobob

So I checked it out and the rpm whine is coming from all four speakers.

Locobob,

Two ways I am aware o to fix alternator whine:

1. If you are using RCA low level input between the audio source to amps, running ground loop isolators will take out the whine.

2. If 1 is not an option, take 3,300 to 3,600 microfarad axial capacitor and connect positive side to the alternator output and take the negative side and ground to the alternator housing.

I used method 2, on and off, since 1980 and it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-Electrol...item1e7e8ed7e0

I spent a year trying to take the whine out from the first hi-fi install (head and amp set up w/ Jensen speakers) I did in my 79 L48 Vette. A professional installer gave me this tip.

[WVZR-1]

Not related to your issues but with the battery relocation did you include a fusible link for the charge wire from the alternator to the battery or are you using just an extension from the jump block behind the original battery? If you plan on additional fuse blocks I believe I'd include a maxi-fuse link to the block from where ever you decide to power it.

"Secondchance" suggested the capacitor and that should certainly take care of the whine.

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

Not related to your issues but with the battery relocation did you include a fusible link for the charge wire from the alternator to the battery or are you using just an extension from the jump block behind the original battery? If you plan on additional fuse blocks I believe I'd include a maxi-fuse link to the block from where ever you decide to power it.

"Secondchance" suggested the capacitor and that should certainly take care of the whine.

Mark did the battery relocation wiring, there is a 12 gauge(ish) wire coming off the kill switch which I believe goes to the alternator, I'll have to ask him for the details next time I talk to him. New fuse block pics coming shortly.

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Locobob,

Two ways I am aware o to fix alternator whine:

1. If you are using RCA low level input between the audio source to amps, running ground loop isolators will take out the whine.

2. If 1 is not an option, take 3,300 to 3,600 microfarad axial capacitor and connect positive side to the alternator output and take the negative side and ground to the alternator housing.

I used method 2, on and off, since 1980 and it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pc-Electrol...item1e7e8ed7e0

I spent a year trying to take the whine out from the first hi-fi install (head and amp set up w/ Jensen speakers) I did in my 79 L48 Vette. A professional installer gave me this tip.

I'm still using the Bose amps/speakers so there aren't any RCA's currently in use. I did run some along the tunnel for possible future use and two of them are plugged into the head unit bass output as I may add a sub. Do you have any more info on the capacitor mod? pics of what this mod looks like?

[Locobob]

So here is the solution to my accessory wiring woes. This nice little kit features 3 always hot circuits and 4 keyed hots. It comes pre-wired and install is really simple, big red wire goes directly to the battery (or any large power distribution block) and powers the entire unit, pink wire goes to any keyed hot and powers the relay which turns 4 of the circuits into keyed hots, ground wire to ground. Then it's just a matter of running the various circuits to where you want them. Currently I'm only using 3 of the keyed hots: one for the seat heaters, one for the exhaust cut-outs, and one that splits into the 3 console accessory switches that I added - only the radar detector switch is presently in use. I left my back-up camera power on the under console pink/black wire which I also used for the new fuse block relay. I also left the TPMS connected to the I CONV fuse under the passenger side dash as it works nicely there. Did a quick shakedown run late last night and it appears that this has solved my accessory power issues.





Looking forward in the passenger side rear storage bin: From left you can see battery relocation wires, Valentine 1 unit, new circuit block, and master fuse for circuit block.


I ran the fuse block power cable out the back side of the rear storage bin and connected it to the kill switch. I also ran a new ground wire off the cross-member and back into the storage bin for the both the fuse block and radar detector unit.


I removed the relay and fuse that I had previously installed in the center console area and made this same area into a junction point where many of the accessory wires come together.

[Locobob]

Console layout


Most of the interior, missing the shift console since the upholstery shop screwed up my shift boot.

[cvette98pacecar]

Originally Posted by Locobob

So here is the solution to my accessory wiring woes. This nice little kit features 3 always hot circuits and 4 keyed hots. It comes pre-wired and install is really simple, big red wire goes directly to the battery (or any large power distribution block) and powers the entire unit, pink wire goes to any keyed hot and powers the relay which turns 4 of the circuits into keyed hots, ground wire to ground. Then it's just a matter of running the various circuits to where you want them. Currently I'm only using 3 of the keyed hots: one for the seat heaters, one for the exhaust cut-outs, and one that splits into the 3 console accessory switches that I added - only the radar detector switch is presently in use. I left my back-up camera power on the under console pink/black wire which I also used for the new fuse block relay. I also left the TPMS connected to the I CONV fuse under the passenger side dash as it works nicely there. Did a quick shakedown run late last night and it appears that this has solved my accessory power issues.





Looking forward in the passenger side rear storage bin: From left you can see battery relocation wires, Valentine 1 unit, new circuit block, and master fuse for circuit block.


I ran the fuse block power cable out the back side of the rear storage bin and connected it to the kill switch. I also ran a new ground wire off the cross-member and back into the storage bin for the both the fuse block and radar detector unit.


I removed the relay and fuse that I had previously installed in the center console area and made this same area into a junction point where many of the accessory wires come together.

Bob, Where did you get the custom battery box?
Where do you mount your V1 base unit? The reason I ask is I have 1-V1 and 4 cars. If I could buy 4 remote display and remove and install the V1 in less than a minute that would be great.

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by cvette98pacecar

Bob, Where did you get the custom battery box?
Where do you mount your V1 base unit? The reason I ask is I have 1-V1 and 4 cars. If I could buy 4 remote display and remove and install the V1 in less than a minute that would be great.

I had a local guy custom fab the battery box. My V1 base unit is attached to the halo trim panel - about right in the middle between the seats so it gets a good view.