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#1 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,686
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Sorry Marty, but there’s no way GM would allow the car to run at anything below the point where the ECM is not LEARNING and modifying the fueling for BLMs. No matter what the conditions. That’s part of what cold weather testing is all about.
The coolant needs to be at >80C for that. Anything below that for other than warmup is not what the calibration is looking for. That doesn’t mean it won’t run but it defeats the whole point of Closed Loop operation. |
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#2 |
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Location: Northern VA
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Phil Wasinger 1994 Torch Red ZR-1 WAZOO Member George Braml Intake |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mystic CT
Posts: 2,628
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Probably the thermostat was stuck open, be thankful it wasn't stuck shut.
Rather have it run too cool then too hot... Replacing it should solve the problem? Other than this, Happy New Year Tom! |
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#4 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
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Not sure I would immediately believe the gages. Hook up a scanner, Tech1 or such or get a reading from the other sensor via the HVAC display. Even if the thermostat stuck fully open I would still expect to see correct operating temp once the engine is fully warmed up, even in cold ambient temps.
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#5 | |||
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Tom 1994 ZR-1 #009 "captured test fleet car" 1974 LS4 454 Vert 1974 L-82 355 Vert. 1982 L83 CFI...now a retired "dd"....Sold WAZOO Member |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McLean, VA
Posts: 3,730
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Tom,
About 4 years ago I installed a thermo stat with 3 1/8" holes drilled on the flange. It worked fine during the summer months resulting in about 10 degree drop. As soon as we hit cold weather, at highway speed, she was running at 140. Idling, temp would get up to 190 to 200. I would suspect you have a drilled thermostat also. |
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#7 |
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Location: South Dakota/California
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What deg thermostat do you have? Check Coolant Temp using digital readout #16 fan speed. Do NOT drill holes in thermostats.
It does take a long while to warm up all coolant in radiator. The thermostat can get confused during that initial warm up when radiator coolant is so cold. I do not see a problem. Happy New Year ![]() Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Clickable links ![]() On Iphone Touchable Links -Solutions- LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration 1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5/ZR-1 Fluids 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS Last edited by Dynomite; 12-29-2017 at 02:42 PM. |
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#8 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,686
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I installed a Fluidyne several years ago trying to address overhating innsummer w AC on. We put in a 180d thermo w 4 holes. It did as u described. Temps dropped to 150 or so when cruising in 30d ambient. Finally, settled on 2 1/8” holes using 180d thermo. Works perfectly in warm or cold. Hot weather driving,
temps are easily kept within the 187- 198d range. Fans come on at 190 and 192. Cruising temps are below that. My cal for fans is set so temps are always in Closed Loop Learn range. |
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2010
Location: Japan
Posts: 3,105
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Hey Dom, My new garage is built so my car is coming home tomorrow. One of the first projects is the Fluidyne radiator I bought before moving here last year. What if I leave the 180 degree thermostat stock w/o drilling even two holes? Did you try your Fluidyne radiator with stock thermostat? Thanks, Craig Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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#10 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,686
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Craig,
My interest in better cooling was due to use of AC in hot weather traffic. Otherwise not much issue. Plus, w ~550chp, the motor is generating more heat than a stock motor. I would simply install a stock thermo w the Fluidyne. Should be fine. |
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