Update on my hi-miler Z project

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by ScottZ95ZR1

CONGRATS Andrew !!

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Andrew, way to be my man! Oh, and WOW is right from Cliff. That motor looks sweeeeet! You must look like this--->


You be Da Man!


Tom

Originally Posted by WB9MCW

Glad to see the bog is gone -- looking forward to your road testing and reports.

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Looks like a great job, Andrew.

Congrats on the fine work!!!


Jep

Thanks for all the support and good wishes guys! This forum has been a great support group to help me stay motivated!

Andrew

[VetteMed]

so, driving to work this morning... temp gauge runs about halfway up, when in 5th at 60 or 65. If I shift to 6th and lope along at 60 or 65, the temp creeps up, to at least 3/4 of the way up. I only can conclude that this means theres an rpm dependent issue. Is it possible there's still an air bubble in the system causing this issue? Not sure what else to look at to determine why an rpm dependent cooling issue would be present. water pump was new on the motor btw.

Andrew

[Hammer]

I believe that is typical. Both my '91's ran that way.

[VetteMed]

John, thanks for that info. I don,t recall the car running like that with the old motor; I did put in a new temp sensor so perhaps this is more accurate, and the old one was "lazy"?, not showing accurate readings? Car seems to be running well, but clearly runs hotter in any gear if I am not turning at least 2300 rpm or so.

[tomtom72]

unless you have a chip with reconfigured fan call in temps, then yes I do believe your readings are normal. The only exception i can think of is i always takes me a couple of engine heat cycles and an over night sit to get the proper coolant level. I usually end up having to put almost a quart into the overflow bottle the next morning.

[VetteMed]

my chip is a haibeck chip, burned for secondary delete among the usual mods. same chip as I ran w. old motor... plus, fan should be a non-issue at highway speeds...

Hoping it's just an air bubble, or the change in sensor, as mentioned!

[Pete]

Water pump likes 2k rpm.
Check it in traffic if your standing idle just rev it to 2k and you will notice temp come down.

Pete

[mike100]

If the little return vent hose in the radiator fill reservoir is pissing a solid stream back into the tank, then you probably purged the big air bubble. Little air pockets will eventually vent out and upon cool down, the overflow coolant will be sucked in to fill the void. Just be sure to put an extra inch or so in the overflow and it will be ok.

Air locked LT5's don't cool at all. Still, I don't think I've ever seen more than 60% on my gauge, but maybe a scan tool to measure the actual coolant temp is in order. 210-ish would be expected.

[limey]

Andrew,

1st off, i'm thrilled to no end that the motor is running and no "issues". I trust you have good oil pressure and no lifter noise etc. As to the temp readings, a couple things and the most likely is air pockets in the system, or a sticking thermostat.

If the car is idling still, do both fans come on and then turn off once cooled?

Also remember, this motor is built to factory spec, so it's going to be a bit tight for a while, not loose like your old 180k mile one so that i'm sure is going to also play into a bit warmer running temps than what you was used to seeing in your old motor.

Now, back to the rebuild :-), it would appear that for $4500.00 exchange and warranty, that this is the best possible route to go now, Much cheaper than anyone could buy the parts for, not to mention the cost of labour to rebuild.

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Originally Posted by limey

Andrew,

1st off, i'm thrilled to no end that the motor is running and no "issues". I trust you have good oil pressure and no lifter noise etc. As to the temp readings, a couple things and the most likely is air pockets in the system, or a sticking thermostat.

If the car is idling still, do both fans come on and then turn off once cooled?

Also remember, this motor is built to factory spec, so it's going to be a bit tight for a while, not loose like your old 180k mile one so that i'm sure is going to also play into a bit warmer running temps than what you was used to seeing in your old motor.

Now, back to the rebuild :-), it would appear that for $4500.00 exchange and warranty, that this is the best possible route to go now, Much cheaper than anyone could buy the parts for, not to mention the cost of labour to rebuild.

Gotta say it again, Kurt. YuDaMan! What a great price for what you have done!