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#251 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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The ebay vender can't seem to get me the exact specs on these LED's. I did talk to another place that sells something similar and looked up their specs: http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...panel-led/709/
They said I could try putting a resistor in the power supply - which would be the two pink/black wires shown in the 91FSM (Elect.) on 8A-202-1. These two wires come together on the flexible circuit board and then fan out to power all of the warning lights in the DIC. They suggested trying something around a 1K ohm, 1/4W resistor. Anyone care to opine on this?
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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#252 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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Well crap. Just tried splicing into the pink/black hot wires with a pair of 1K ohm, 1/2 watt resistors that I had laying around..... and the two dim lights that aren't supposed to be on are still on. About ready to just say screw it and put the incandescents back in grrrrrrrr.
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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#253 | |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,783
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#254 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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Today I tried plugging a rheostat into the middle of the pink/black keyed hots that feed all the trouble lights in the DIC. It had a range of 2 - 10K ohms. My plan was to add resistance to the circuit until the dim bulbs (which are supposed to be off) actually turned off. To make a long story short it did a fine job acting as a dimmer switch for the LED's that were supposed to be lit - it did now however seem to effect the dim problem bulbs in the least?!?! Even at 10k ohms they remained glowing. How can this be? I even unplugged it to see if they were somehow getting power from elsewhere... nope, they went off. ARRRGGGG!
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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#255 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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Gave up on the DIC for a while and worked on my heated seat switches. I've been having a heck of a time trying to duplicate the factory illumination color. The unlit color was pretty easy to match - hobby store spray paint called "Camel Yellow" is very close. I sprayed this into the engraving from the backside. I then tried lighting it with the amber LED strip but it was way more yellow than the factory color which is more of a dark brownish orange. Next I tried a more orangy yellow spray paint behind the camel yellow... still too yellow. Finally I took a very dark orange marker and went over the letters again.... still to yellow. Then I got smart and I realized that the amber LED's were the problem. I bought some new clear LED strips, much better, went over the LED lenses with a red marker and perfect as you can see below in the second pic.
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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#256 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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I glued my new switch panels down onto the FX3 controller bezel and installed all of the switches. Sorry about the poor quality pics, my camera lense needs to be cleaned up.
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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#257 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,157
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LEDs take LOW current and range in voltag depending on color.. not sure dimming them is the same as dimming the incandescent bulbs
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#258 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,120
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Well done looks like it could be factory
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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#259 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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If you read back a ways you'll see the problem I'm trying to correct. Basically I have two LED's that are staying on dimly when they should be off.
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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#260 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,047
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Thanks Daryl, that was my goal. Tested the switches and they work, but I'm having an odd problem with the on/off/on - when I push down on one side it is the opposite side that lights/powers up? I've never seen a 3 position rocker work like that... looking at the wiring diagram I don't see anything I could do differently to correct that. The switch illumination is dependent on the switch position, its not separately wired. I'm tempted to just pull the ground off, reverse the hi/low wires and make it an unlit switch, it's just odd and confusing that it works backwards like that.
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Robert ZR-1 Net Registry Oregon State Director 91 ZR-1 #431 Black/Black LPE 368 |
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