TOP END REFINISHING

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Z06scentair

Man your doing a great job. Try some of that two part epoxy to glue that emblem back down. Read the labels on the epoxy at the local car parts store. Surely they have something that will bond plastic to lumineee

No 2-part epoxy - you don't want to have to use a grinder or "crow-bar" for removal. Black RTV I would think will do well. Window-weld - maybe?

[Z06scentair]

Originally Posted by WVZR-1

No 2-part epoxy - you don't want to have to use a grinder or "crow-bar" for removal. Black RTV I would think will do well. Window-weld - maybe?

Ok or that

[carter200]

Originally Posted by Schrade

Yellow bowtie with black LT 5, if you can do it there Carter; I just thought more about it, and never decided either way here...

I can do that . When you can email me and we'll get-r-Dunn

[Schrade]

Anyone know off-hand the size of the crank pulley bolt head? And is it reverse-thread?

[LGAFF]

Black RVT is all you need to lock the emblem down...my emblems are 2X the weight and never had an issue with RVT

[Jagdpanzer]

21 mm, right hand thread

[A26B]

You need to turn it over with the starter, 2~3 compression strokes. By the time you reset the wrench enough times to make a full 4 stroke cycle, the pressure is leaking off past the rings.

Re:

Serious Q now here; #4 was open. I saw the tape on top of the IH pucker on the PRIMARY, AND ALSO the tape puckered on the SECONDARY, JUST SLIGHTLY The 'pucker' is not visible in the above snappic here, since I opened the PRIMARY for solvent.

Not sure what you mean by "open" and by "pucker"

If you mean the intake valves were open on #4 cylinder and you were applying vacuum to the cylinder via the spark plug hole..... and...the tape sucked down (like a vacuum would)..... a lot on the primary & only a little on the secondary, It's probably because both intake valves are open and the secondary port throttle valve is closed.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by A26B

You need to turn it over with the starter, 2~3 compression strokes. By the time you reset the wrench enough times to make a full 4 stroke cycle, the pressure is leaking off past the rings.

Re:


Not sure what you mean by "open" and by "pucker"

If you mean the intake valves were open on #4 cylinder and you were applying vacuum to the cylinder via the spark plug hole..... and...the tape sucked down (like a vacuum would)..... a lot on the primary & only a little on the secondary, It's probably because both intake valves are open and the secondary port throttle valve is closed.

Thanks there Sir; that explains BOTH Q;s...

[Franke]

Schrade, You might also want to make sure you have a good charge on the battery to do the compression test on all cylinders. Take the tape off the intake ports so that you don't suck any tape into the cylinders.
Like Jerry says 2-3 compression strokes per cylinder should give a good indication of cylinder balance. I go 3- 4 strokes to make sure I've reached max pressure. Watch each stroke to see what pressure you get and compare each cylinder. For example: 1st stroke 50lbs, second stroke 100lbs, 3rd stroke 130lbs etc. Some manuals say that there should be no more than 10% diff between highest and lowest final cylinder readings.

[Franke]

Originally Posted by Schrade

Emissions / coolant piping paint cured, as well as the plenum coolant 'T'..

I thought it strange that the PCV cross-over tube didn't have too much support. I didn't notice before, that one of PO's had hacked off the mount brackets from both CC pipe elbows. It had to be dis-assembled ANOTHER time, because the bracket remnant wasn't still bolted on when I dis-assembled.



Some type of zip tie support will attach to the fuel rail cross-over, I suppose...

You could fashion a metal strap to go around the pipe to attach to the plenum bolt. My car is missing those attachment points from the aluminum pipes as well. Seems that they were somewhat flimsy and required care in removal.