Paint work

I think what I am looking for is tips in striping the paint down. I will not shoot the car myself, but wouldn't mine doing the other work.

[rhipsher]

Jeff I'd just take it to a good body and paint shop. I'd let the pro's prep and paint it. Unless you you've got moths in your wallet

[z proud]

Find a painter or shop and let them tell you how they want it prepped.

Front cover I would replace, as the rubber will be cracked under the paint and it will take sometime to remove the paint, If you want to try to repair and strip the paint off, use 80 on a da till you get to the black primer then finish up with 180. Don’t dig into the rubber, or you could have it media blasted, if the person has done bumpers before.

Hood, I would use 180 on a da, to remove the clear and paint, then block sand the primmer with 400 wet.



As everyone has a different approach, I don’t like to use stripper on VETTES as it could get into the fibbers and come back to cause problems after it’s painted.

Let me know if you have any questions, I have painted and been around the collision repair for 25 +years

[RICKYRJ1]

The time is in the prep work = money. Have the shop do the final prep and paint. That way they can't blame you if something doesn't come out right. I agree w/Zproud on the prep

Originally Posted by rhipsher

Jeff I'd just take it to a good body and paint shop. I'd let the pro's prep and paint it. Unless you you've got moths in your wallet

It's not a matter of being cheap, I want to learn something new. And also have some fun at the same time.

Originally Posted by RICKYRJ1

The time is in the prep work = money. Have the shop do the final prep and paint. That way they can't blame you if something doesn't come out right. I agree w/Zproud on the prep

I think I got an estimate of all the work being done for 1,400 from a guy I trust and have seen his work at several shows.

Originally Posted by z proud

Find a painter or shop and let them tell you how they want it prepped.

Front cover I would replace, as the rubber will be cracked under the paint and it will take sometime to remove the paint, If you want to try to repair and strip the paint off, use 80 on a da till you get to the black primer then finish up with 180. Don’t dig into the rubber, or you could have it media blasted, if the person has done bumpers before.

Hood, I would use 180 on a da, to remove the clear and paint, then block sand the primmer with 400 wet.

As everyone has a different approach, I don’t like to use stripper on VETTES as it could get into the fibbers and come back to cause problems after it’s painted.

Let me know if you have any questions, I have painted and been around the collision repair for 25 +years

Thanks for the tips. I've checked on front bumpers from GM, and they have been discontinued..... Finding a decent used one will be a problem as well, and I've seen the repops. They all require work

From what I've seen/heard in the past is nothing below 320 for sanding. Use the 320 on a DA until you hit the black primer, then start getting finer from there.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

I think I got an estimate of all the work being done for 1,400 from a guy I trust and have seen his work at several shows.

You R&R the parts? Or remain on the car? Make sure you get a chance to clean and seal real good the light housings, Fog, turn signal lens.

[1990 415]

Originally Posted by Jeffvette

I have seen his creativity of slamming the pencil lead through the paper. Not sure I want him near the hood, or well near anything I hold dear with a object he can stab with.

"No, no, no,no!"

[xlr8nflorida]

Originally Posted by 1990 415

"No, no, no,no!"

You can learn something new on the prep but I would leave it to the pros to do the painting, especially since they have a paint booth.

I would not bead blast it because unless you have experience bead blasting fiberglass, things can go south in a hurry.

The paint shop will shoot it with a coat or two of primer, sand and fix anything you might have missed and then prime again, basecoat and clearcoat.

Z Proud gave you good advice on the sanding etc. I'm not a big fan of the paint stripper either although I think that was more a factor in the old days with real Fiberglass and Laquer Paints, now with SMC its not a really a factor. People say that, because fiberglass is a porous material, the fiberglass sometimes absorbs the stripper which makes it difficult to properly neutralize the stripper once you've got the paint removed. Then, when the car is parked in the sun or exposed to heat, the paint stripper can 'sweat' out of the fiberglass and eat the finished paint from the inside out. Regardless, you can do damage or burn your skin so even though Corvettes are now SMC- sand paper is the toughest work but its the way to go and its the safest way.

Honestly, if they are pulling the bumper off and doing all the prep and painting, that is a very reasonable price. I'd ask if the price is diferent if you pay cash.

If you want to do the prep, learn something new and save some $ then I'd go to your painter and ask him how he wants you to do the prep. Heck, he might even let you setup in his shop and he can guide you. The other way, he might blame you and say you caused him more work. (even if its BS)

It would be like you telling me, you will change my 4 coils for $150 labor and I will pull off the plenum to save $. You say ok then I'll only charge you $120. I screw it up and snap all the bolts off making your job even tougher etc.

Good Luck!