Is anyone using Royal Purple?

[Bob G]

I Used Torco Mtf Synthetic In My Trans It Didn't Work The Trans Started grinding on The Shifts changed Back To Gm And Grinding Stoped. I Think The Torco Was To Slippery And Wouldn't Let The Syncros GrabThe Gear To Slow it Down Enough
Bob

[lbszr]

Here's two 10w-60 castrol reports in the zf6 with 9000 miles on the oil.

[lbszr]

The zinc and phosphorus is lower in one report than the other. Don't know if it's cause one report is older than the other and it might be after the time a lot of manufactures lowered the levels cause of the tree huggers. Or maybe just not accurate tests for some reason.

[WB9MCW]

Originally Posted by PhillipsLT5

stay with bmw trans fluid
see
www.zfdoc.com

FROM THE ZF DOCTOR SITE >>>

(Q.) I just bought, at the local BMW dealership, 3 liters of the Castrol TWS 10W60 oil. I was surprised to see that it is motor oil. Not being a lubrication engineer myself, who did the investigation and determination that this product is compatible with and good for our ZF transmissions? Jim – Grand Sport Registry

(A.) Jim, the C4 Corvette ZF S6-40 6-speed transmission uses engine oil for lubrication. I was told by Jeff Henning, Warranty Administrator of ZF Industries North America, that Engineering of ZF Industries in Germany determined that the BMW imported Castrol (RS superseded by TWS) 10W-60 oil was the recommended alternative to the (GM P/N 1052931) factory-fill oil for use in the ZF S6-40 transmission. In effort to verify ZF Industries alternative lubricant recommendation, we ran our own test series on the BMW imported Castrol TWS 10W-60 oil. Independent testing of the transmission oil samples was sub-contracted out to CTC Analytical Services. The test series went as follows:
<1> Spectrographic analysis indicated that it is has full synthetic composition.
<2> After 2 hours of operation, approximately 100 miles, oil sample analysis tests indicated that the viscosity rating was reduced from 60 down to a 43 level. No need to worry, this is a normal occurrence for this heavier type of oil. I attribute this to microscopic-level lubricant-strand trimming through operational loading where all of the oil contents has been passed through gear pressure-loading regions at least a few times.
<3> At 200 miles, the viscosity level stabilized at a 42 level viscosity since the 100 mile oil analysis test results.
<4> At 5000 miles, the oil analysis test results indicated a 40 level viscosity.
The test-transmission was completely disassembled and checked for wear. There were no signs of carbon film like experienced with the factory-fill oil. The phosphor-bronze lined synchronizers had no glazing and experienced an average mass loss of approximately 4% based on reserve-wear-range mass equivalency between 0.062"(new) and 0.048"(spent)
gap wear/mass measurements.
<5> At 10,000 miles, the oil analysis test results indicated a 39 level viscosity.
<6> At 12,500 miles, the oil analysis test results indicated a 37 level viscosity.
<7> At 15,000 miles, the oil analysis test results indicated a 34 level viscosity.
The test-transmission was again completely disassembled and checked for wear. There were no signs of carbon film like experienced with the factory-fill 30 oil. The phosphor-bronze lined synchronizers had no glazing and experienced an average mass loss of approximately 17% based on reserve-wear-range mass equivalency between 0.062"(new) and 0.048"(spent) gap wear/mass measurements.
<8> At 15,000 miles the oil had enough phosphor-bronze particles suspended
in it that deposits began building up inside of the synchronizer sliding
sleeves from the normal centrifuge-like rotational occurrence.
In Conclusion, until someone invents a copper magnet, we recommend that the ZF S6-40 6-speed transmission oil be changed at 10,000 - 12,000 mile intervals so as to minimize the amount of deposits of the suspended spent synchronizer material from collecting in critical component contact surface areas.

[WB9MCW]

Originally Posted by PhillipsLT5

see
www.zr1specialist.com
for motor oil
Amsoil 10/40

This is the PDF link from the site >>> http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...5%20Engine.pdf

[rhipsher]

I've used Amsoil and Royal purple at different times. And I know Corey Henderson pushes the Amsoil. I'm sticking with Royal purple. I drove 3000 miles using Amsoil and did an oil change and did the same using Royal purple. And I noticed while doing an oil change after 3000 miles on Royal purple my oil was was much cleaner draining out of the oil pan than when I used Amsoil. When you start talking about Red line, Amsoil and Royal purple, they are all top of the line sythetic oils. But what the oil looks like when it drains out of the oil pan tells you something. You can split hairs if you want.

[Chris_32212]

Originally Posted by rhipsher

I've used Amsoil and Royal purple at different times. And I know Corey Henderson pushes the Amsoil. I'm sticking with Royal purple. I drove 3000 miles using Amsoil and did an oil change and did the same using Royal purple. And I noticed while doing an oil change after 3000 miles on Royal purple my oil was was much cleaner draining out of the oil pan than when I used Amsoil. When you start talking about Red line, Amsoil and Royal purple, they are all top of the line sythetic oils. But what the oil looks like when it drains out of the oil pan tells you something. You can split hairs if you want.

AH.. thank you. finally a response to my question. (the information that was posted about the other oils is appreciated but it really had little to do with the why i started this thread.) i am assuming you are referring to using Royal Purple in the motor only. is that correct? how about the transmission fluid or rear diff?

Chris

[flyin ryan]

i've used the Grape Juice but i'm not a big fan, personally. i might have mentioned it on here, can't remember for sure, but in early Sept. i went to a seminar put on by Joe Gibbs Racing oil & hosted by Lake Speed Jr. it was really good. cleared up some myths. i'd loved to get into it but i'd be here all day. if anybody ever has a chance to go that seminar, do it!

[rhipsher]

Originally Posted by Chris_32212

AH.. thank you. finally a response to my question. (the information that was posted about the other oils is appreciated but it really had little to do with the why i started this thread.) i am assuming you are referring to using Royal Purple in the motor only. is that correct? how about the transmission fluid or rear diff?

Chris

Just the engine so far. There are alot of very sharp people on this site and their answers can be quite detailed and packed with to much information for some. If I switched motor oil every time somebody told me there was a better oil, I would have had every brand they make circulated through my Z by now. I've drag raced it. And I've road raced it at speeds around 180mph for long peiods of time and Royal purple has performed just fine. And thats about all I can tell you man.

[WB9MCW]

It would be interesting to see the wear scar diameter data on a Shell 4 ball test with the grape juice to see how it stacks up against the competition. At 0.4mm it might be hard to beat out Amsoil. Marc H usually has done all the homework b4 he makes an endorsement.

Does RP make it in a 10W-40?

In my 502 blower motor in my speedboat we did note better psi on the gauge and faster recovery on the gauge (PSI wise) after a hard run with Amsoil vs Gold Cap Moble 1. So pretty happy with the A brand in the boat. Figure I will go with the A next oil change in the Z.

--JMO --

After all the forum is for discussion of the ideas/experiences we all have/had no matter what the brand or preference!

Knowledge is POWER