HELP! Changing the WaterPump

This is the best shot I have right now. I'll grab another tomorrow when I get to the shop.

[MikeG]

Thanks for all of the replys/info. All the hints/helps are ecactly what I was looking for. Had heard about the different bolt sizes and trying to make certain the right bolt goes back into the right hole (my Chilton book even shows a diagram covering that specific problem - but the idea of taking a bolt from old to new, back to old to new was super! A normal half-witted shade tree wrench turner shouldn't get them mixed up - should he??!!!). Also the info on leaving the lower hose on, don't install the new lower hose until the pump is on - thanks!

With the temp forcasted to have a HIGH of 8 on Thurs. I'm thinking more and more of letting my mechanic, who doesn't have any ZR-1 experience, but is a great Chevy man!, do the job. We've talked of pull the radiator anyway just to pull it and blow the fin area clean, flush with clean water, leak check and finish it off with adding new anti-freeze (it's 2 yrs old and a bit diluted from the trip back from Eureka Springs in Oct. I also have to pull the Pwr Steering Radiator - it's leaking also. All of that should give us some more room.

Alright here we go this is without changing hoses.

Steps:
1) Drain coolant
2) remove accordian duct
3) Remove airhorn
4) Remove serpentine belt
5) remove belt tensioner
6) Remove water pump pulley
7) Remove hoses at coolant outlet pipes and pull coolant hose assembly towards the front of the car.
8) Remove the spring clamp off of the water pump end of the hose
9) Get a crewdriver or awl or anything to start prying the hose end off. Once you have an opening spray some sort of penetrating oil to help get the hose off
10) I use a large pry bar and push down on the hose to get it to slide off. Less damage on your knuckles
11) Spray the crap out of it with brake kleen.
12) Now tackle the bolts there are three different ones.
13) Use your new pump as a bolt guide. As you pull them out place them in the corresponding holes on the new pump.
14) Once the pump is out transfer the bolts from the new one to the old one.
15) Put a small amount of rtv on a few spots on the pump and and put the gasket on the pump.
16) Run a couple of bolts through as guides. Insert all bolts and then tighten down.
17) Re-assemble everything else and fill with fresh coolant.

[MikeG]

John, good to see you over here also. Thanks for the request for buddy list. Am not sure why I posted my initial request for info on the Corvette Action Center first (still doesn't have any responses). These posts are going to help a lot when it comes time to replace the pump, once it come in from IL.
Catch ya later,
Mike
91 Turquoise Metallic, #135

Originally Posted by MikeG

Thanks for all of the replys/info. All the hints/helps are ecactly what I was looking for. Had heard about the different bolt sizes and trying to make certain the right bolt goes back into the right hole (my Chilton book even shows a diagram covering that specific problem - but the idea of taking a bolt from old to new, back to old to new was super! A normal half-witted shade tree wrench turner shouldn't get them mixed up - should he??!!!). Also the info on leaving the lower hose on, don't install the new lower hose until the pump is on - thanks!

Ditch the Chiltons manual. Get a helms. it will be the best money you spend on the ZR-1. The helms tells you were the different bolts go in case you get mixed up.

Check this thread out.
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=4238

[MikeG]

Jeff, thanks for the pic, steps and advise on Chilton. I know the Chilton is vague, but couldn't afford the Helms at the time - planning on getting one a bit later. Thanks also for the link.

[LGNDLT5]

These posts are going to help a lot when it comes time to replace the pump, once it come in from IL.
Catch ya later,
Mike
91 Turquoise Metallic, #135[/quote]

Hi Mike. Great post s and details of the replacement. The pump is on it's way check your email I sent a note earlier. Good luck, you will do great, just take your time as Jeff suggests, one step at a time. Thanks John

[UKZR1]

Sorry for the late reply Mike, Ive been away on a cisco course all week.

Here's the link you asked for http://www.corvetteclips.co.uk/Enginereturns.html

athough Jeffvette has posted a much clearer picture

[MikeG]

Thanks for the extra pictures! I wish there was some way to see all of this while the engine is installed! The water pump is due for delivery tomorrow! After spending some time under the car pulling the power steering radiator - leaking - I have decided to take to a friend who has a nice shop, lots of Chevy knowledge, lacks ZR-1 experience - but we're both learning at the same time and is someone I can trust and the shop is close by. I have decided to pull the coolant radiator - for more room to work and to make sure it's clean and will put new collant and stuff to keep me and the engine cool and in top running condition!

[tomtom72]

Mike,

Just a coupla of thoughts. Go over to the netreg site & in the "how to" section look up the screen for the air intake above the front splitter & spoiler. It will keep all the junk out for the future. I used some fiberglass window screen material wrapped around one of those wide mesh plastic screens ya get with a sleeve type a/c unit. It keeps leaves and the small sand out of the fins.

If you really pull the rad out to clean it go get a condensor fin comb and some ph balanced condensor cleaner or just some simple green & a soft paint brush(cheap toss away type). You will need a small pick to get the sand out that the shop air doesn't get. That will take time, the sand removal. I'd get a new T-stat & o-ring too and new hoses(?) while you're in the neighborhood. When I did this to my car it had like 12k on it & it was sand filled & pretty dirty. Sorry I'm spending so much of your doe-ray-me!

You may find it easier to get the shroud off if you dis-conn the oil cooler lines, just don't loose the two o-rings at the cooler end of the lines. It don't take much to remove them & ya will have more working room(JMHO). Be patient with the shroud as it's gonna test ya! There is a write up over at the netreg site on this proceedure also. Oh yea, don't forget towash down the a/c condensor real well also as it will be dirty & block air flow to the rad.

Oh yea, be gentle with the t-stat housing as it's NLA (?, I'm pretty sure) When you go to put it back together and back on the frame mting points be gentle. I do my t-stat & flush every two yrs and ya think I would remember. I never do; so I can't give ya chapter & verse. Just look it over & take your time...it will come to ya like a BFO. Oh yea, mm swivel sockets, in 1/4" & 1/2" drives, will be a blessing! Trust me on that!


Tom