Highest amp alternator options.

[Ccmano]

With all the cool stuff your planning to install I’m curious why you picked a radar lane assist warning system. My personal experience with these systems has been nothing but annoying. Constant binking or buzzing warnings. (Maybe it’s my driving lol) I usually ended up turning the system off if possible.
H

[executioner]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

With all the cool stuff your planning to install I’m curious why you picked a radar lane assist warning system. My personal experience with these systems has been nothing but annoying. Constant binking or buzzing warnings. (Maybe it’s my driving lol) I usually ended up turning the system off if possible.
H

Its only a warning light that turns on when someone is in my blind spot. Most cars have them integrated into the side view mirrors. Not sure yet where I will mount the lights but that's pretty much all it does.

[Mystic ZR-1]

With all these extra amps flying around, 🔥
you might consider a fire suppression system too...
😊

[executioner]

Originally Posted by Mystic ZR-1

With all these extra amps flying around, 🔥
you might consider a fire suppression system too...
😊

Already have it covered, both driver and passenger side. Also plan to have one that I can deploy in the engine bay with a pull trigger.

[Paul Workman]

Ordinarily, the BIG current alternator current draws are the headlights, cooling fans, HVAC, and battery charging - (momentary starter and brake light current excluded, but included in battery charge recovery) - all well within the conventional ampere capacity of the stock alternator. So, when engineering the requirements of the additional load, one usually assesses the realistic "worst case scenario" and then adds a reasonable reserve margin for the generator/alternator.

My point is, it seems like you're starting from the wrong end; i.e., specifying the generator capacity requirement first before divulging the key load analysis. IOW, are you engineering the load, base on the (alternator) capacity - whatever unit you can come up with? That seems backward (to me). For example, I'd want to know what a load analysis looked like first before looking for the biggest, baddest alternator out there as initial quest. And, if nothing else, there are space limitations and cooling limitations (due to being under the plenum) AND existing wire harness capacity.

I don't know you, and please know I mean no disrespect. But, the engineer in me (and I'm sure -=Jeff=- and Cliff and Marc, et al) senses "a few" holes in this project - which you may have already considered, yes? So, pardon the huge red flags that jump up, given only what we know about this project so far...

[executioner]

Thanks Paul, you are correct. Right now I was just curious to know what the max was. I'm still in the planning stages, and this is a project that will be built little by little, so I wont be utilizing a high amp alternator until maybe I finish on the stereo install.

Most of the equipment I plan on adding does not have large amp draws from what I've found thus far. I believe 320 should be enough, and I'm calculating all of it now, but just wanted to to know if 320 is the highest available without any large modifications.

Most of the equipment I'm adding does not draw a lot of power and all of my bulbs are being upgraded to LED including the dash. If 320 is all that's available without heavy modification then I will find a way to stay within that limit.

Like I said in a previous post, I will be installing a dual battery setup with the standby being a lithium ION battery with a cut off isolation for when I decide to keep the equipment running while the engine is off. I will be able to monitor the level of that battery and if I need to start the car to recharge it I can do that. Systems that only need to be activate while driving, like the lane monitoring will be supplied from the main battery and alternator.

[-=Jeff=-]

Are the camera and Blind spot detect systems off the shelf.. or are you creating them as you go?

[executioner]

They're both completely aftermarket. 360 birds eye camera is made by RVS and the lane monitoring is made by BrandMotion.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by secondchance

I’m no expert on the subject but during my research, I learned that Powermaster offered 200 amp conventional amatory style alternator. Other option was what are referred to as “hair pin” winding stator design.
Hair pin style alternators seems to be Denso units adopted to CNCed housing cut to fit mounting meant for GM CS144 alternators.
Quality Power Alternator offers up to 320 amp and DC Powerunit max is 270 amp.
Also, alternator performance is most critical at idle. All being equal, hair pin types are capable of higher output at low rpm compared to conventional winding type by design. I believe, in the world of alternator, idle definition is not 800 but more like 1,300 or so.
Lastly, if you are planning on adding subwoofers and high output amp/amps, I recommend splicing in amplifier capacitor. With sudden load demand from bass amp, I don’t think, could be met even with 320 amp rated alternator and most likely make lighting dim momentarily. No major concern but just irritating.
I went with Quality Power unit primarily because QP offers conversion connector whereas DC Power does not.

I figured I will add a bit more form what I have read.. yes these Hairpin Alternators are said to offer better idle performance, but a couple people I talked to said it is not much more. I was going to upgrade to a Powermaster or even the Quality Power Hairpin. I did not, in fact I have a home built Alternator I need to install, it has a new Rotor, Stator from a late model (allows more current) an HD rectifier and OEM Regulator. according to the a couple people this should put me close to the 144-150 MAX Current yet be much better than the OEM 124 MAX that the car comes with.


I do also have an aftermarket Stereo (2 Arc Audio KS 300.4 amps). so the only added load is the stereo, but I never have had an issue, in fact my old 89 had several Stereo systems and once I swapped to the CS-144 in that car I never had issues. Depending on your stereo system component choices, that will dictate the need for more amps.. I think the other electronic 'toys' you are adding are low enough draw that if you are swapping to LED Bulbs, it might be a wash or you might gain by having less draw. I also suggest a new heavy gauge wire from the Alternator back to the battery (run it in parallel to the OEM one) remember these cars are 25-30 years old

Last year my car would stall on a hot day @ idle, with radio and AC on. my first thought was, Alternator or battery as I did not think I had enough current, in actuality it was cracked Crank Sensor. There were other symptoms as well, but I am running an aftermarket ignition module in my car and thought it was an issue there.

Either way, I would size up your amps and equipment then figure out the reduced load you will get from LEDs everywhere (Unless you use Loading resistors). Then go from there.