Fuel Sending Unit

[Ccmano]

The standard C4 version is sold without the pumps. I wonder if just the actual sending unit part could be transferred?
H

[Wigert]

Hey

I have a similar problem and have been planning to try to repair it. I found the link below a while back.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-article.html

Anyone here tried it?

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[jss06c6]

Ended up ordering from Jegs. In stock and no tax or shipping. Still cost $380!

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[jss06c6]

Originally Posted by Wigert

Hey

I have a similar problem and have been planning to try to repair it. I found the link below a while back.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...h-article.html

Anyone here tried it?

Skickat från min GEM-701L via Tapatalk

I'll certainly try it on mine!

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[jss06c6]

Here's the quick sequence..

1. removed FP1 fuse from fuse block
FP-1 Removed.jpg
2. started engine, let it run a bit to depressurize the system
3. disconnected battery
4. removed fuel fill cover (4 torx screws)
5. removed rubber fuel dam and disconnected fuel drain line
Drain Line Removed.jpg
6. removed white keeper key in plug
Wiring Plug Keeper.jpg
7. disconnected plug
8. removed fuel supply, return and vent hoses (took pliers and gently rotated hoses on pipe nipples to allow me to remove them
Fuel supply-return-vent-2.jpg
9. removed 10 mm bolts, being careful to capture the o-rings on each
10. carefully lifted the pump assembly, rotated it 90 degrees CCW and carefully worked it out of the tank (had to work the fuel hoses a bit to clear the lip of the tank
ZR-1 Fuel Pumps_Float 91 #473.jpg
11. removed the gasket (carefully to prevent any debris in the tank
12. was surprised to see a tray in the bottom of the tank where the float rests in an empty tank (it was yellow plastic)
13. taped the tank opening closed with duct tape to prevent contamination and debris from entering the tank

Once on the bench, I clipped one lead of my meter to the purple wiper lead on then sending unit and the other lead to ground. Tank empty read about 0.5 ohms, Tank full initially read 95 ohms. There was nothing erratic during a sweep from tank empty to tank full. I worked it multiple times slowly, then rapidly and the tank full reading moved to 105 ohms and was stable. I guess I might have had a little debris in the potentiometer. I could also see interference between the float rod and the fuel hose clamp to the top fuel pump. Don't believe this would cause a problem, but should not be hitting it regardless.

The socks looked pretty good for 27 years old. Tank was clean as well. My new pump assembly is backordered from Jegs.. Should ship on April 19th.. I'll compare the new to the old and install the new one. Not sure what I'll do quite yet with the old one since it still appears to be working..

So, at this point, I don't know what caused my fuel gauge to stick to essentially full for the first 60 miles.. Guess there was a small amount of debris, but likely would have cleared itself after a few more miles of driving.. Oh well, good to replace the pumps and sending unit as preventive maintenance.. I'll attach some photos for entertainment..

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by jss06c6

Here's the quick sequence of removing the Fuel Pump......

1. removed FP1 fuse from fuse block



2. started engine, let it run a bit to depressurize the system
3. disconnected battery
4. removed fuel fill cover (4 torx screws)
5. removed rubber fuel dam and disconnected fuel drain line



6. removed white keeper key in plug



7. disconnected plug
8. removed fuel supply, return and vent hoses (took pliers and gently rotated hoses on pipe nipples to allow me to remove them



9. removed 10 mm bolts, being careful to capture the o-rings on each
10. carefully lifted the pump assembly, rotated it 90 degrees CCW and carefully worked it out of the tank (had to work the fuel hoses a bit to clear the lip of the tank



11. removed the gasket (carefully to prevent any debris in the tank
12. was surprised to see a tray in the bottom of the tank where the float rests in an empty tank (it was yellow plastic)
13. taped the tank opening closed with duct tape to prevent contamination and debris from entering the tank

Once on the bench, I clipped one lead of my meter to the purple wiper lead on then sending unit and the other lead to ground. Tank empty read about 0.5 ohms, Tank full initially read 95 ohms. There was nothing erratic during a sweep from tank empty to tank full. I worked it multiple times slowly, then rapidly and the tank full reading moved to 105 ohms and was stable. I guess I might have had a little debris in the potentiometer. I could also see interference between the float rod and the fuel hose clamp to the top fuel pump. Don't believe this would cause a problem, but should not be hitting it regardless.

The socks looked pretty good for 27 years old. Tank was clean as well. My new pump assembly is backordered from Jegs.. Should ship on April 19th.. I'll compare the new to the old and install the new one. Not sure what I'll do quite yet with the old one since it still appears to be working..

So, at this point, I don't know what caused my fuel gauge to stick to essentially full for the first 60 miles.. Guess there was a small amount of debris, but likely would have cleared itself after a few more miles of driving.. Oh well, good to replace the pumps and sending unit as preventive maintenance.. I'll attach some photos for entertainment..

Your post is linked in Solutions (6th Post).......Step by Step with fastener sizes is always a great reference

You are welcome to copy the photos back into your original post above as you like

[jss06c6]

I'll do that.. thanks very much for the help!!

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[jss06c6]

Well, just received this from Jegs!

"Thank you for your order. Part ~065-FLS1102 is discontinued. AC Delco has not offered an replacement item. Your backorder for this item has been canceled. If you have any questions please call us at 1-800-345-4545 and speak with a tech sales representative. We apologize for the inconvenience."

Looks like if I can't source another one from someone who still has some stock, I'll be replacing the pumps in this unit and taking the sending unit apart to verify it's in the best condition possible..

Didn't Walbro make pumps we can substitute?

[JFFerner]

Before spending hundreds of dollars you may want to try using a Chevron product called Techron concentrate. It's available at Advanced Auto,Walmart, etc. 10 ounces for about $5. Dump in it into an almost empty gas tank, add up to 15 gallons of gas and drive. By the time you need to fill up again, your sending unit will probably work. This stuff works great. John Porter turned me onto it 5+ years ago.

[9T1 Red ZR1]

Hello,
I just ordered FLS1102 from carid.com for $300.43. It is the complete unit with two pumps, fuel sender and float. It came to my house in PA in two days. They still show two in stock if you are interested. I haven't installed mine yet, I am in the middle of other projects right now.


Bill