Coolant Pump Pulley Off...

[KPW]

I have not attempted to start the engine.

When I shut it down I popped the hood to confirm the status of the belt, and noted that the reservoir under the headlight was full, but I didn't have coolant spewing. Knew I wasn't going anywhere without a new belt so I let it sit, since then I've been working on the pump.

I'll plan to pull the plugs, we'll start there.

By "spin the engine" do you mean by the starter or by a wrench on the crank?

[A26B]

Originally Posted by KPW

......................................
By "spin the engine" do you mean by the starter or by a wrench on the crank?

Starter

[KPW]

Coolant system is back together, just need to fill then pull plugs, spin the engine, and if all goes well pressure test just to be sure.

While I was taking a break from dealing with those wonderful spring clamps, I went around and pulled all the plug boots. Cylinder 5 had some gunk on the end, so I pulled that plug. Looks like oil from the threads up. Doesn't look like there's any on the electrode, and looking down the plug hole it seems dry past where this guy was screwed in.

What do we think, bad news or is this normal?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by KPW

Coolant system is back together, just need to fill then pull plugs, spin the engine, and if all goes well pressure test just to be sure.

While I was taking a break from dealing with those wonderful spring clamps, I went around and pulled all the plug boots. Cylinder 5 had some gunk on the end, so I pulled that plug. Looks like oil from the threads up. Doesn't look like there's any on the electrode, and looking down the plug hole it seems dry past where this guy was screwed in.

What do we think, bad news or is this normal?

That looks like the Cam Cover/spark plug "O" ring has failed...there are 4 for each cam cover.

seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95

To replace those "O" rings requires that you remove the Cam Covers. You will need some Permabond A136

You can remove the Cam Covers Engine in car but if the Cam Covers have never been removed before there are some tricks.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

That looks like the Cam Cover/spark plug "O" ring has failed...there are 4 for each cam cover.

seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95

Concur

[KPW]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

That looks like the Cam Cover/spark plug "O" ring has failed...there are 4 for each cam cover.

seal-set-8-cyl-head-cam-cover-spark-plug-90-95

To replace those "O" rings requires that you remove the Cam Covers. You will need some Permabond A136

You can remove the Cam Covers Engine in car but if the Cam Covers have never been removed before there are some tricks.

Cool, thanks. Glanced at the FSM quick, it indicates I'd have to discharge the A/C system. Looking at your pic looks like you just unbolted the compressor and moved it out of the way...pull the plenum, etc.


In any case, what's my priority level for this replacement? Am I immobile until I fix it?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by KPW

Cool, thanks. Glanced at the FSM quick, it indicates I'd have to discharge the A/C system. Looking at your pic looks like you just unbolted the compressor and moved it out of the way...pull the plenum, etc.


In any case, what's my priority level for this replacement? Am I immobile until I fix it?

NO...you are not immobile.......just clean out all the oil from any Spark Plug area and run....check (remove spark plug boot) after an hour or so and if no oil...check after 10 hours... and so on....this maybe was an accumulation of oil over several thousand miles.

Yes.....just remove Plenum and set AC aside.......Removing Cam Covers (Engine In Car) for Inspections of Camshafts

You do not need to remove the spark plugs to remove the oil......
A. Blow all debris off Cam Covers using 90-100 psi Air Pressure.
B. Pull ALL Rubber Spark Plug Boots.
C. I use a rolled up sheet or tube of paper towel to swab up the oil if any inside each Spark Plug Port.
D. You do not want to remove the spark plug first as there may be some debris you do not want to fall into the cylinder.
E. After ALL Oil is eliminated in Spark Plug Ports.......Use the 90 psi Air to blow into each Spark Plug Port.
F. Use a tad of White Grease around each raised rim (just below the Top Rim) of each boot to make installation easy.

[KPW]

Excellent. Thanks Dyno! I wonder how much shelf space you'd need if you published a manual with all your tips/tricks...awesome.

[KPW]

Last night I filled up with coolant a la Dynomite:

1. Flipped the two "L" hoses going to the big coolant pipes vertical
2. Slowly poured coolant into the Passenger Side "L", keeping an eye on the Driver Side, until the level held.
3. Connected the Passenger Side "L" to the Coolant Pipe
4. Poured coolant into the Driver Side "L" until that level held, then blew into the "L" by mouth. I felt the system burbling a bit here.
5. Repeated #4 until I felt coolant coming out of the Driver Side Coolant Pipe.
6. Connected the Driver Side "L"
7. Poured coolant into the black High Fill Tank until that level held
8. Filled the reservoir under the headlamp to "hot"-ish

This morning I pulled the plugs (how about that #8, huh? good thing others have done this before so I didn't have to scratch my head on it too much) and spun the engine a few times, no fluids blown out, CHECK.

Put the plugs back in, topped off the coolant in the high fill tank, put my pressure tester on the system. Looks like it held pressure, CHECK.

Crossed my fingers and started the car. Everything seems OK. Let it run for a minute or two, then topped off the High Fill Tank again. Let it run for 10 minutes or so, Both pipes got hot, coolant is circulating, no plumes out the exhaust, I'm calling this a WIN.


Thanks ZR-1 Net.

[A26B]

I call it a WIN also. Good procedure developed with the usual terrific support from ZR1Net Forum brothers looking out for each other.

I could tell several stories of minor issues that turned into major issues by not knowing or following sound procedures.

You did good KPW!

Very good advice from Dynomite about monitoring the plug-well o-ring seal before arbitrarily removing the Cam Cover . I just don't visualize a leak sufficient to justify pulling the Cam Cover.

In the same vein of thought, go through the PCV System & make sure it's all in top condition. Keeping crankcase pressure to a minimum will have a minimizing effect on the o-ring leak.