Running hot?

[XfireZ51]

Did you "burp" the motor?

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Did you "burp" the motor?

When I first started up the car I refilled the expansion tank and the coolant reservoir. I let the car run with the expansion tank cap off until the car was all the way warmed up. I had the heat on full blast as well.

If that is not the proper way to do "burp" the cooling system let me know.

[mike100]

the water pump is air locked unless you see the little jet of water pissing into the expansion tank with the cap removed. If it is air-locked, jack up the passenger side as high as you can, fill it with more coolant if needed, and start the engine. the water pump will grab water with the car at an angle- works everytime for me.

[XfireZ51]

Can't comment on doing it your way. Like Mike, I jack up P\S when filling expansion tank. I also installed a bleed valve in P/S coolant tube. Normally, I fill up the expansion tank and let the motor burp itself overnight.

[Dynomite]

If you really want to do it the Dynomite Way to be sure you do not have an Air Locked Water Pump

If you have an air locked Water Pump the temperature will go to the moon!!!!!

Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 30 seconds), your coolant is NOT flowing.

Note 2: Coolant Filling and the Air Locked Water Pump Simplified after you have filled the Coolant System with Coolant using both "Ls" (each Injector Housing Coolant Manifold).
A. Disconnect the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" and tip it up. Fill that "L" with coolant and blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the passenger side water pump inlet and passenger side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump.

B. Refill the Drivers Side "L" with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold where you have disconnect the "L".

When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort).



Do NOT rely on the temperature gauge to tell you if the Water Pump is functioning. If the two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds are NOT getting warm rather quickly (within 30 seconds), your coolant is NOT flowing.

See Filling With Coolant and the Air Locked Water Pump

[Billy Mild]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

To read Digital Coolant Temperatures.....

1. Push and hold up and down (each side of Fan Control button) until you get zeros in display on left.
2. Then push up button to right until you get to 16 in the display.
3. Then push center fan button to read digital coolant temperature in degrees C continually in the display until you hit the temperature button.
80 C is 176 F
85 C is 185 F
90 C is 194 F
95 C is 203 F
100 C is 212 F
105 C is 221 F
110 C is 230 F
115 C is 239 F
120 C is 248 F
125 C is 257 F
130 C is 266 F

You are running HOT.....I would guess 110 C to 115 C more or less as the gauge is analog and may be off a tad.

It is almost always about air flow.

My car ran in the 100-110 C range today according to the digital HVAC gauge. Once up to 110 C the car would only get down to 106 C while cruising.

Is that bad?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

My car ran in the 100-110 C range today according to the digital HVAC gauge. Once up to 110 C the car would only get down to 106 C while cruising.

Is that bad?

What was outside air temp and is AC on or off?........and that is a bit warm but maybe normal for an original Radiator. Cruising say over 40 (not with a 30 mph wind in same direction) should bring that down just a tad near 100 but still I would say you are on the warm side of normal.

Also depends on the condition of your thermostat and the condition of your radiator, oil cooler, AC condenser fins (leaves, oily dirt, other road trash and bent fins). Also depends on the condition of your fans.

I for one do not like the original radiators and prefer Ron Davis or like Aluminum Radiators which you would then (depending yet on the condition of the oil cooler and AC condenser fins) bring that temp in the area of 88 - 95 again depending on outside air temperature and with or against the wind. I use a 180 deg F Marc Haibeck Thermostat on ALL ZR-1s as well as a Marc Haibeck Chip with fans on earlier (On at 205 deg F and Off at 200 deg F).

The 180 deg versus the 160 deg thermostat or no thermostat

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

My car ran in the 100-110 C range today according to the digital HVAC gauge. Once up to 110 C the car would only get down to 106 C while cruising.

Is that bad?

Sounds a bit warm. Maybe 85-95C max. I may have missed it, but did you clean out the radiator and the area in nose of car?

[Billy Mild]

The car seemed to run around 106 C in traffic today. When on the highway it was around 90-95 C. The outside temp was around 62 F.

[We Gone]

I think you may have a bad thermostat, My car ran around 205-215 down the road stock, when I stated have issues with the thermostat not opening all the way it would get to 226 + or - a few and stay all the time unless in traffic or stop and go than it got to 230's and the fans would never shut off.

Changed it and went to Marc's prom now I never see over 212 stop and go and the fans will always bring it back to 200 + or - 5 and cycle off. 205 running at speed on a hot day.