Cranks but No Start (days before MR/C4 Gathering)

[tf95ZR1]

Glad you got the hood open. I could never get Gordon's tool to work.
Just for that reason: (see post #6)

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....highlight=hood

And there is a way to jumper the fuel pump directly from a wire out the
backside of the ECM. You can also switch the 12V feed from primary to
secondary pump to see if just one is bad.

[tf95ZR1]

From Marc Haibeck's website:

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...Tanker%201.pdf

"The fuel pump test connector is located near the windshield wiper motor.
It’s a single pin connector with a red wire. I made a cable with a spade connector and a clip
to connect 12 volt battery power to the test connector. The wire should be 14 gage
since the two pumps draw a total of 10 amperes.
To run the pumps the clip is attached to the positive terminal on the battery.
On ’90 cars with VINs less than about 800 the fuel pump test connector is
located in the area of the lower right side of the battery. On the early ‘90’s
the connector is hard to reach and may be impossible to find without removing the battery.
Starting the engine cold can run the pumps but the secondary fuel pump will shut down
when the engine temperature reaches 176 degrees."

[gbrtng]

Originally Posted by We Gone

Once you get it open adjust the cable, you will see the adjusting ends at the latch, just have someone pull the hood open lever under the dash and see how much it moves the latch lever.



You can also adjust the spring tension by loosening this nut and turning the striker pin with a large screwdriver.

Turning the striker pin adjusts the latch point up or down - adjusting the pin up a half turn might relieve some binding, but adjusting the cable to make sure there is full travel of the latch is most important.

Could not figure out how to delete the top picture ...

see comment between pics. Glenn

[RussMcB]

Great news. My No Start condition was caused by a bad wire/connection at the top of the gas tank. We were able to determine both my pumps are working, but the primary pump was not getting 12v. Specifically, it is one of the male pins in that top plate. It's still giving us grief, but at least now we know exactly where the problem is.

Woohoo!

A huge thanks to all of you. After I nail the FP wiring issue, I'll tackle the hood latches (and then start on the rest of the list).

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by RussMcB

Great news. My No Start condition was caused by a bad wire/connection at the top of the gas tank. We were able to determine both my pumps are working, but the primary pump was not getting 12v. Specifically, it is one of the male pins in that top plate. It's still giving us grief, but at least now we know exactly where the problem is.

Woohoo!

A huge thanks to all of you. After I nail the FP wiring issue, I'll tackle the hood latches (and then start on the rest of the list).

Thanks for describing the issue in case one of us runs into this ourselves

Nice to solve one of these intermittent and hard to diagnose issues

[PhillipsLT5]

Originally Posted by RussMcB

Great news. My No Start condition was caused by a bad wire/connection at the top of the gas tank. We were able to determine both my pumps are working, but the primary pump was not getting 12v. Specifically, it is one of the male pins in that top plate. It's still giving us grief, but at least now we know exactly where the problem is.

Woohoo!

A huge thanks to all of you. After I nail the FP wiring issue, I'll tackle the hood latches (and then start on the rest of the list).

Another Brotherhood to the rescue

[RussMcB]

Thanks, Dynomite.

Quick summary (in case it helps someone someday):

• After determining I had spark, we decided to investigate fuel pressure.
• My new Autometer FP gauge read pressure, but I realized it wasn't behaving normally.
• I connected a mechanical pressure gauge to the rail and found no fuel pressure.
• We couldn't hear a fuel pump running so I removed the pump assembly from the top of the gas tank.
• I used a battery charger to feed 12v to the pumps and we confirmed both were working.
• Then we worked backwards to see where the break in conductivity was and we were able to pinpoint it.

I've tried to repair the terminals but it's still not quite right. Probably just too old and needs to be replaced. I'll work on it some more tomorrow in daylight, and it shouldn't be too tough to resolve.

[A26B]

I think you guys did some great work. The problem you described can sometimes be very elusive to pinpoint. What you ultimately found is a new-one so far as I can recall & one for the books. Again, great work.

[tf95ZR1]

Glad to hear you solved the problem, Russ.
I'm picturing myself soldering new terminals
next to an open fuel tank....

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Good job!! Hope to see you in BG!