Couldm't get the 94 in gear......

[8cam]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

I think you are reading it wrong...

Originally Posted by Blue Flame Restorations

4Cam...I'm sincerely not criticizing anyone who takes it differently at all, either. Just listing my understanding of the bold red "style'".

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Mark your missreading this. Cliff is just trying to highlight a solution. Cliff is a very nice and helpful guy

I deleted my post, don't mean to cause problems. And yes I've gotten a lot of help from those red lines already, so big kudos to Cliff.

My only point was that "not set up to bleed" wasn't the whole picture, and I expanded on that from my conversation with Jim. The extra red emphasis that wasn't originally there, without an explanatory link, just didn't come across well.

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by Roadster

Dave, I believe none of the fluids have been changed....so it looks like replacing or get the system rebuilt.............
No records as of yet, got in contack with another previous owner, so we will see where that goes..... Tom

Hold of on replacing or rebuilding anything yet.

Change the fluids (clutch / brakes / transmission) and see how things go. That might fix the issue.



David

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by 4cam

I deleted my post, don't mean to cause problems. And yes I've gotten a lot of help from those red lines already, so big kudos to Cliff.

My only point was that "not set up to bleed" wasn't the whole picture, and I expanded on that from my conversation with Jim. The extra red emphasis that wasn't originally there, without an explanatory link, just didn't come across well.

Mark,

I couldn't agree more about Jim Jandik , he is the man!!! Great products / service and discussions with him.


Thanks for editing your post and giving feedback on your brake upgrade experience.

:cheers

David

[Dynomite]

4cam.....I was only mentioning the fact I went through the same thing on my 90' and thought you prolly did not see it so highlighted it in BOLD RED. It is an important issue as you verified that the Stock Clutch Slave Cylinder in a 90' (maybe 91') does not have the bleed valve any longer. And as I found out it is a mess to try to bleed the Slave Cylinder by breaking the lines. You did a nice right up on the background confirming what we both experienced and mentioning the self bleeding characteristic. Thanks


Oh....will mention again...(this the third time)....I got a New Clutch Master and New Clutch Slave from Jerry which I installed both in around 30 minutes including bleeding (New Clutch Slave has a nice bleed valve). My wife Priscilla pumped the Clutch when I opened the bleed valve each stroke. Clutch releases perfectly now. New Clutch Slave DOES fit around a Stock Exhaust pipe without disconnecting the pipe just in case anyone is wondering.

[Mystic ZR-1]

How did you bleed it,
the bleed port is on the bottom of the new
AC Delco slaves? What genius designed that?
Back filled mine thru the bleed port (bottom to top).

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Mystic ZR-1

How did you bleed it,
the bleed port is on the bottom of the new
AC Delco slaves? What genius designed that?
Back filled mine thru the bleed port (bottom to top).

AC Delco genius

Back filling would definitely work better but gets messy with connections/hose that I did not have handy. Maybe that is why the bleed valve is on the bottom of the Slave Cylinder

I did use a few sheets of paper towel under the bleed valve.

Yes...I bled it before installing it on the bell housing. Also tried to tip it up in rear as I bled it to get air out and also when you do that the steel line tips down which makes it more difficult. I recall I also pushed the plunger against bell housing to destroke the Slave Cylinder with bleed valve open. I just tipped rear up and twisted it so bleeder was not all the way on bottom and said to wife "PUSH and HOLD". I then cracked the bleed valve and closed bleed valve. Did that a few times keeping fluid in clutch reservoir. Then it is tight but you can depress the plunger a bit for positioning Clutch Slave on Bell Housing. Make sure you get some lube on plunger end for Clutch Fork...also making sure you have the plunger inserted properly on Clutch Fork.

After Priscilla got good full stroke clutch pedal pressure I called it a day and as 4cam suggests I think it will self bleed any remaining air over a period of time.

[Mystic ZR-1]

You're right, it was a little messy!
But it seems to have worked OK, got a good pedal now.

[nelson007]

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Tom,




I'd make sure the clutch fluid is or was changed... Also change out the transmission fluid too, either one could cause the symptoms.

Do you have a list of maintenance records?



David

[ZZZZZR1]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

Nelson,

Many say clutch fluid / brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, but I would yield to Marc Haibecks advice.

If you don't know when your fluid was changed, that's not a bad idea.

Look forward to seeing you in BG!!!



David

[8cam]

Originally Posted by nelson007

Dave how many miles do you reconmend having the fluid changed?
I have 31 k in my car and might change it before going on the mountain run.
Nelson007

If it's original (likely) then it's 20+ years old. I think I'd change it. The black, nasty sludge I pulled from mine was probably original too, and I'm sure that stuff just accelerated the slave failure.

A quick change is a 10 minute job and you'll get 90% of the fluid flushed, and you don't have to go under the car. Just suck the old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster and wipe the stuff out until it's clean. Put in clean DOT4 to the fill line and give it 20-30 pumps - you'll see the air bubbles coming up through the reservoir. Suck the fluid out, refill and repeat. Do this about 4 times and you'll run about a half-bottle through, most of the fluid will be changed. Now if the clutch goes soft again, the slave is the culprit 95% of the time.

A true 100% bleed will require diving under the car and using the bleeder valve, and isn't possible on a 90 with the original slave.