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#11 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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Based on what I've read it's not certain that the injectors haven't been already replaced before you got the car? If they have then why replace? If they are not the original ones then running some new fuel and Chevron Techron Inj cleaner may be all you need.
Then run the car with the power key off until you're satisfied with that operation before diving into the secondaries. Lots of WOT with key off. As you've stated I too would pay attention to all fluids (replace) before I'd jump to the secondaries but that's just me. Next move to secondary operation. If all is well the WOT twice a day to keep the pipes clean. ![]()
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#12 | |
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Work
Posts: 21
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Appreciate all the help so far, especially Marc's site. That will be a ton of help. |
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#13 | |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Lake Bluff, IL
Posts: 2,141
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2016 Long Beach Red Z06 #10281 "POPS Z" 1995 Polo Green #409 "WARP TEN"--Haibeck 350/510 package, 4.10s, Hurst, Stock Exhaust with QTP Cutouts --Sold but still running strong 1993 Quasar Blue #161 "HIL KING" --Sold but still running strong, now with more than 120,000 miles 1967 Marlboro Maroon/Saddle Corvette Coupe 300 hp/4-spd --Sold a long time ago ZR-1 Net Registry Founding Member #95 NCM Lifetime Member Favorite Quote--Attributed to Mickey Thompson: "Too Much Horsepower is Almost Enough" |
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#14 | |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,193
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I did some detailed investigations on OEM injs in 98 including building my own cleaning station and documenting the spray patterns on each of the 16 with pictures. While I do not agree with the general wisdom of resistance measure as way to determine suitability for use I do strongly subscribe to the notion that the OEMs rust and start sticking again even after full cleaning (been there done that). There's nothing like stainless steel for injectors and there's inherent advantages to a rotory design over pintel design for hardening against gumming. As for resistance as a measure of "fit for use" I submit it's an indirect measurement and by no means conclusive about shorted windings and/or the progression of shorted windings. I mean it can indicate this but then again nominal resistance of an injector from one vendor to the next throw out any absolutes about an injector measuring less than 12ohms as bad. It's like saying an audio speaker that is suppose to me an 8ohm speaker is no good if it measures 7ohms. And that if it's 7ohms it will continue to short till it's 6 then 5 then .... 0 ohms under normal use. Certainly if the internal resistance is significantly off form nominal yes there is a problem but a 10-15 % variance? I don't think so. As long as the flow rate is met that is the important thing and is the primary measurement and as such is a direct measurement. Ok so I got off an a tangent.
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Scott ![]() Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
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#15 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 421
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Not really I would just take a flashlight and open them up and look at the back of them that's usually where they gummy.
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ZR-1 Mom Founder ZR-1 Net Registry Founder ZR-1 Net NCM Lifetime Member |
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#16 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 885
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#17 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 770
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I spent $1011 on my fuel injector change. Injectors from FIC, wires and gaskets from Jerry, coil packs from White Racing, and plugs from Advanced Auto.
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